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Need help.... My truck is still chugging. It's got to stop or it's going up for sale.
I'm ready to re-insure my gasser and drive it till it pukes......... My PSD sucks right now. Really sucks.
Whatever the #$%^ it's problem is will not trip the SES light. It chugs bad when first lit off that it'll barely run. Give it some pedal and it will not increase RPM at all. I honestly can't tell if the EBPV is open or not since it's so loud with the straight pipe. Gimme some things to check. I'm off tomorrow, Thurs, Fri, and the weekend. So, I got time to work on it.
Here's what it did today..... I cranked it up (was not plugged in overnight) it barely ran. It was in the 40's last night. I gave it some pedal and it ran a little better. It at least idled real bad. I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. Got in it and it at least drove. It drove with a real bad miss. I'm talking dead, solid miss.
I drove it about a half mile in the neighborhood like this. I pulled out on the highway and accelerated, when it shifted into second it immediately ran perfect........ Just like someone turned a switch on....
No problems after for my 2 mile ride to my co-workers house (we carpool). He drove today. My truck at at his house all day. I got in it this evening, crank it up and it does the same thing. I let it warm up again, this time it'll just idle real bad. No change in RPM in gear, nothing. I could get about 1800 RPM out of it in neutral. It eventually ran a little better, but is still missing. I drove it home and shut it off like this.
Here's what I plan to do tomorrow. Not sure if I should do it all at once since doing so could not pinpoint the problem. I'm also going to try and round up a Diablosport tuner and see if it has any codes, or at least be able to monitor some stuff while it runs and chugs.
I'm going to try and do the hutch/pre pump stuff this weekend if I can. I'd like to plumb in some clear fuel return line tubing and see if it's an excesive air intrusion problem. Hell, could it be a low fuel pressure problem?
The oil is not that old, PLUS I don't think it's oil related since it runs good AFTER it's warm. Unless it's viscosity related..... BUT, I still ain't buying that since other PSD's that I know of run fine with Rotella 15W40 in the winter down here and other more northern parts of the country.
Guys, I'm stumped and frankly am ready to throw in the damn towel. Maybe I bought a lemon, who knows???????? Either way it's ticking me off. It's either gonna get fixed or sold, whichever is less painful........ I'm not gonna dump money it a blind problem........... I can think of more creative ways to flush money away.....
John, One of our support trucks ( After its 4 year life as a front line response truck and 2 years as a reserve) is doing this and I have been trying to correlate all of the symptoms and conditions. It doesnt do it all the time just after extended sitting 2 -3 days. I describe it as stepping on a wet sponge when mashing the go pedal until it warms to NOT. I have done every test AE can throw at it and all pass. The only thing I have not done is a cold cylinder compression check. What i think is happening is when cold some of the cylinders are loosing compression but once it warms everthing seals up and she runs fine. I know this is not what you are wanting to hear but I think we have thrown about every check at your truck we can without actually hooking it up and doing some test.
Have you checked the UVC connectors that go into each valve cover gasket? You may have a bad pin or a shorted wire in the harness somewhere, that will cause the truck to run like crap, and if the wire moves or gets bumped, it will go back to normal. All i can recommend is looking over every possible engine harness wire (wrapped with red and black elec. tape on the engine) and see if any wires are chafed. Im pointing at an electrical problem since it's sporadic and not constant.
7.3 fully built longblock for sale PM me
I am thinking you need to verify your checkvalve for the HPOP reservior is not faulty since it comes to life after it is warm. This can be done by checking the HPO reservior VIA the allen head plug on top after it has sat for at least overnite. Should be within an inch of the top at worst.
Filter change is always a good idea, at the same time you check the HPOP level, just pull the bowl cover and check the fuel level there also. In addition, there are restrictors in the fuel lines where they enter the heads. Complete with screens. Mine are in the shed. Maybe they somehow get over come if clogged once the fuel pressure builds. That last is a swag but it is under troubleshooting for a lot of symptoms in the manual.
Disabling the EBV is also a good quick check but it should not cause it to chug when idling/warming up. If it is malfunctioning, it would simply fail to disengage when you get underway and then present a problem, but still worth a look.
I somehow suspect Alan has looked into this with his vehicle with similar problems but maybe not. Just my 02.
Perhaps a bad idle validation switch or throttle pedal assembly? And or both. Anyone else?
Also, a clear return line is not necessary as any type of cheap see through filter plumbed in there or similar item will serve the purpose.
BTW, I run 15W 40 year round. If it's clean, it's not your problem.
2001 Auto Crew Cab 4X4. 38R and Swamps Hybrids. Transgo and diode Tranny. 400HP but not really. 05 front end and stickers makes it faster.
Every one of them several times. Only other thing I have been thinking about is fuel airation in the pump. The colder the fuel the easier for dissolved air to be churned into entrained air. The quik connects are suspect also but I think these would be an all the time issue and not just when cold.
Thanks for the responses. I just got back from inside. I went outside, cranked it up, and it ran fine!!!!!!! AGGGHHHHHHGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!! Read below as I'll address everything you guys just mentioned.
I just changed the fuel filter (looked OK) and the CPS (royal PITA). I also unplugged the EBPV, then plugged it back in. I figured that's enough till tomorrow. If it starts up bad tomorrow I'll pull the EBPV and retry it. I doubt that's it though. That wouldn't cause any roughness, just a lack of power.
Alan, honestly I don't think it's a compression problem since in the past it has done this out of the blue while the engine was warm. I found some old notes of mine in the garage and it has done it once the engine warmed up. The first few times it did it was right after fueling, SO, maybe it is a fuel aeration problem?
I hooked up some tubing to the fuel bowl drain and ran it into a tub. Once I cracked it open it gurgled real loud until it was empty. I closed the valve, cycled the pump a few times and drained it again. I did this about 5-6 times and drained about a 1/2 gallon out. Only the first time was loud. The others were hardly gurgly at all. I made sure the drain hose was clear of all diesel before I cracked it open each time. I also cranked the truck up and opened the drain while the engine was running. The fuel came out kind of aerated, so maybe there is a fuel aeration problem there.
I bought this truck back in February. The weather was still cold when I got it. It did it a few days after I bought it I remember. It did it a few more times after that too. It has not done it over the summer. My thoughts is that the fuel line is getting stiff in the cold weather and causing air intrusion.
Also Chris, you might be on to something as well. This morning it was like someone turned on a switch. It shifted second gear and all was well. I mean just like that it was OK.
I'll do some digging through the wire harness and see if anything is chaffed. Only other thing I can do are the pre-pump/in-tank mods to see if it's that.
Back around Feb/March I did find the chip loose in the PCM. BUT, the chugging it's doing now is more pronounced than before, so maybe the 2 chugs are not related. Either way the chip comes out tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it to chug first thing in the AM, shut it down, pull the chip and see a difference......
Only other thing I can think of is the accelerator pedal assembly. My dad and friend bothe have 02's and have had their's changed under a recall. Maybe mine is bad too. I have an early 01 truck? Anybody know where to check for recalls?
Finally.... I broke the clip off of the CPS wire harness. SO, now the plug can simply slip out and leave me stranded. Anybody know if ford sells just the male plug? Maybe they do and I can transfer over the pins to the new one. If not, anybody know who makes that plug along with a part number. It looks like a Deutsch or a Weatherpack connector from what I can tell.
Thanks again guys. Hopefully, we can get it sorted out. After this is done my mission is to get the cackle removed. My dad and friends truck (both have only 100K miles) idle like a 6.0 compared to mine (250K).......
Im guess UVC connectors. I just change the GP's in my truck and the connector that happened to be under the valve cover came off a little bit and was not causing a connection to any off the right bank injectors or GP's. But i would also assume since i got a SES light for an IDM code, that if that was the problem causing a miss that bad it would throw the a code thus turning the light on. My truck idle like crap, like a certain miss because the truck was running on one bank.
99 F-350 CCLB 4wd lifted
05 F-250 RCLB 2wd, soon to be lowered
How much trouble am I looking at to pull the VC's and check those harnesses? Aren't those the harnesses that were prone to chaffing under the covers?????? I remember seeing pics of those I think. Is the UVC connector inside or outside of the VC?
What about the ICP sensor? Someone suggested that it may be faulty as well.....
You beat me to it Alan, I was going to post those pictures.
I also feel that the wiring under the valve covers are the most likely suspect with the description of symptoms.
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
You will need to pull the IC tubes off. On the right side you need to pull of the intake to the turbo. Then you pull out the 10 bolts. On the left side is similar except you have to move some wiring out of the way.
99 F-350 CCLB 4wd lifted
05 F-250 RCLB 2wd, soon to be lowered
We kinda started off with a cold start after sitting problem but now it is sounding like a harness issue or that CPS connector is sending a very crappy signal. did it break before all this started or after John? Untill you can get it fixed take a couple of tie wraps and see if you can secure the connector to the mounting braket to help hold it is place. If you are not getting a good constant 12V feed to the CPS it may be missing some of the key marks on the timming disk and really throwing off the timming, But I would expect this to store some codes (P0344)
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