Alan,

The CPS harness is toast. The insulation is falling off the wires on about the first 4 inches........ I'm trying to match one up now.

Also, I haven't ran the truck in the last 2 days. The HPOP was full after sitting that long in the cold. I cranked it this morning and it did the same thing. What about the glow plug system? Since the search is disabled can you tell me what the pins are in the UVC harness? Also what the resistance of a good and bad GP should be. Also any resistance values for the injector too..


Thanks. I'm going to call the dealerships and see about the harness....

John the whole harness is over 500 from ford I got it for ~450.00 From Here:http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214072 Its not listed so you will need to call. The guys name is Ed.

Any idea how long the short in the cps harness has been occuring?? that harness controlls all of the engine sensors and injectors and glow plugs. The ground for the CPS shares a splice with several of the other sensors, most of which could cause your problems, fixing this short and making sure the rest of that harness is OK should be step 1.

If it starts and chugs, shut it off then unplug one of the valve cover harnesses. If it still starts and chugs, shut it off, plug the first one back in and unplug the other. It shhould not start at all. On whichever side makes it not start at all, pull the valve cover off and look at the UVC connector. If you can push it in even a little bit, that was your problem. The clips that keep them secure uner the valve cover get hot and lose their ability to lock the connector in. Then you can do one of two things, get a zip tie and tie the lock together or go buy a uvc harness for about 80 bucks and replace it. If there is no problem whatsoever with the connector, then pull the drivers side inner fender and pull out your IDM. Shake it and see if you hear a sloshing noise and otherwise check it over to see if it looks like water is trying to come out. I work at at dealership and I can tell you for certain that 99% of the time if you have a really bad skip that can go away, the issue is the UVC harness.

The four outside (large) pins are the glow plugs, the next two on each end are the injector coils the center pin is the return for all 4 injectors. In other words:






gp gp 1 2 r 3 4 gp gp






The glow plugs should have between .2 and 1.0 ohms resistance to ground, but it's a lot easier and more accurate to connect a test light to the + terminal of the battery and to each glow plug pin. The injectors should be less than 5 ohms (usually about .3 ohms)between each injector and the return (center) pin. I realize that the drivers side is actually 2 4 6 8, and the passengers side is actually 1 3 5 7, but I figured it would be easier to understand the way I labeled it.

Thanks guys. I'll check the UVC harnesses where they plug in at the VC tomorrow.

Alan. I managed to get the harness pulled up from in front of the engine and the first 4 inches of insulation is real soft and brittle. I'm guessing the road dirt and oil residue that was all over it caused it to do this. I found the replacement plug/harness at my International dealer. The Ford dealer told me they do not have it. They pretty much have every other plug/harness for the truck except that one.

I'm going to solder it on tomorrow. It doesn't look like the wires were touching, but who knows. I'll find out for sure tomorrow.

I'll keep you guys posted. I'll work some more on it tomorrow.........

Checked the UVC harnesses where they go into the VC. They are fine. I soldered on the new plug/wires for the CPS. It cranked up, ran rough for 2 seconds and hasn't given me any trouble yet. It has only gotten down to 60* so maybe I still have a problem?

Or, maybe it was the CPS harness/plug. Maybe it had some of the wires touching? I'll keep everyone posted.

Been real cold here lately. I still have my problems when it's cold out. I haven't had a chance yet to check under the valve covers.

Plugging in at night solves the problem. But why? This thing shouldn't need to be plugged in right? There are guys on here that don't plug in and their weather is colder than mine.

I'm hoping the UVC plugs are the problem and plugging it in puts enough heat in the engine to allow all of the contacts in the UVC to seat fully.......

Also, the high idle kicks on like it should too. I need to hook the EBPV back up to make sure it functions properly now that it is cold out..

I'll keep ya posted.

Well, if plugging it in solves your problems, then the problem lies in the glow plug system. Nothing else should be effected by plugging it in. Concentrate on in that area.

Jim

I'll leave it unplugged tonight and jump out the terminals onthe GPR in the AM to see how it goes.

I had wanted to do that awhile back. Thanks for reminding me.

Just a thought, maybe it could be the camshaft positioning sensor, it doesn't alwys show a code.

It has a new CPS in it because of another problem that came up (dying, then restarting fine, etc.....) That's why I had to change the CPS harness.

I left it unplugged last night. I'll jumper out the GPR when crank it today.

I'll post the results.

John When you post back can you list all of the things we have checked so far, I feel like we might have missed something early on.

Alan,

I checked the oil level. It was doing this right after an oil change so the oil is good.

Fuel level/filter is good.

EBPV functions like it should. High idle kicks in too like it should.

Connectors OUTSIDE the valve covers look great. Haven't checked UNDER yet.

Changed CPS and soldered on a new CPS plug too.

Now, Found the GPR relay bad today. It was 60* out and it cranked up and ran a little rough even after I jumped out the GPR for about 20 seconds. Maybe I should've hardwired the GPR "HOT" then tried to start.

So, either the GPR will solve the problems, or I have some glow plugs that are bad, or the UVC's are bad/loose. I'm on the right track with it, just don't have the time to work on it.

I'm going to try and jumper the GPR in the AM when it's stll real cold and see if it starts better.

Plugging in helps tremendously though.

I think A full GP system test is what I was thinking we missed. From what you just posted it sound like it is pointing to the GP's. Do you have the pinout for the connector to ohm them threw the VC Connector?

Can you tell me the pinout again? I've seen it typed out here but never made a note of it. Also, how do I get the connector off of the valve cover gasket? I tried the other day just to check for some corrosion, etc and couldn't figure it out.

Also, what should the GP's ohm? I'll check that tomorrow.