Ah right I forgot that small detail :D thanks

Here is a pretty detailed list of machine shop costs to compare with your local machine shop

Engine House: engine house, crankshafts, engine block, cylinder head, connecting rod, automotive machine shop,

If you are talking to the guy on those heads from above since he is retiring he might have a set of reconditioned rods for cheap and other FE parts you may need .. If you run into any other 390 stuff you need I have 2 complete 390 parts motors .. Just let me know

Thanks for the link Redroad, really useful, it will help me not getting ripped off by the first engine shop!

Here is how my engine mount look like, they were both like that:
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0360_zps04491592.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0360_zps04491592.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0360_zps04491592.jpg"/></a>

The piston have a 360 stamp on it, does the 390 pistons are different?
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0362_zps46000771.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0362_zps46000771.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0362_zps46000771.jpg"/></a>

Also all the rod have a mark on top from 1 to 8, is it a factory thing or someone already replace things in the engine.
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0361_zps3cc2b4bb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0361_zps3cc2b4bb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0361_zps3cc2b4bb.jpg"/></a>

The connecting rod have the casting number C7TE.

Glad to know I can trust the reconditioned part, and this shop Survival Motorsprots is own by Barry Rubotnik a FE gourou..

Do you have any trick to remove the pulley?
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0364_zps3f953005.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0364_zps3f953005.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0364_zps3f953005.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0365_zps94022e37.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0365_zps94022e37.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0365_zps94022e37.jpg"/></a>

This looks like a pretty good buy complete harmonic balancer puller set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-CJ-98C-Harmonic-Balancer-Steering-Wheel-Puller-Set-/141298118015?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e6062d7f
Motor mounts are cheap about $5 each @ Rock auto

The best way to tell whether the block has been bored is to have the cylinder bores measured when you take it to get it tanked and magnifluxed .. Have them measure while its still on the transport vehicle .. That way you know whether to take it in for further work or not .. Or if you know some one who has the tools to measure the bores you can have them help you

Redroad the head who were for sale on Ebay are ended but the seller put an other set, and he said the head were resurfaced and 0.020 was taking off, is it a big deal?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Heads-FE-390-428-GT-C8AE-H-Castings-Date-Codes-0-K-20-0-K-21/191191023723?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131230161411%26meid%3D7181158013731140724%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D20131230161411%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D191189063008

You can buy thicker or thinner head gaskets .. Just take good care selecting pistons .. It may work to your advantage in the end .. search term "squish"

Here's a good read for you oil

This seems to be really interesting, I also heard people was restricting the oil passage to the heads by tapping the hole and putting a jet from a carb! I guess I will have to do those mods for the oil passages!

Also I order those heads, I think I had a good deal $645 including shipping, 2.09 and 1.6 with SS valve and new spring.

Next will be get the crankshaft and connecting rod with 6.49 lenght.

Redroad is that your truck? The engine looks really good, and it is really clean. Is it me or it looks like there is the pump producing air to the carb, like a turbo charger?
I like the head cover, the radiator with an electric fan.
Looks awesome!

No I wish :-X04 Mine is a 390 car motor (68 galaxie 500) with a edelbrock 4-barrel intake with a home modified holley 4180C carb and a 262h cam and mad dog headers .. yes it has some sort of old school air charger

Part #9228 - 390/428 engine, 2" primaries, 3 1/2" collectors, fenderwell exit http://www.maddogheaders.net/ these are 4wd headers

http://maddogheaders-us.webs.com/9228%20002.JPG

Hi Redroad,
What about those headers? Is it what you suggest I should use!...
They are for 4wd, do I need a lift to install them?
I am not there yet!
Today I had a good day. I took apart grille, fenders, inner fenders and start to clean the frame with wire brush and a lot of degreaser... I am going to use the same spray can as HIO used.

Hi mckoloum .. I think these are what the F-100 guys are using these days .. Your heads are set up to use either exhaust flange so your good there

The Sanderson FF427 header set is designed to fit 1953-Up Ford F100 pickups using the Ford 332-428 FE engines.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/images/P/ff427_300.jpg

I forgot Stan also makes a good header for your truck Headers for Ford, Mustang, Pinto, Bronco, Cougar, Ranger, exhaust parts for home built do it yourself automotive headers.http://www.stans-headers.com/Photos/222Y.jpg

Well I guess I will have to get rid of the existing exhaust, I think the pipe is like 2''...

This is how it looks now

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0369_zpsc517269e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0369_zpsc517269e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0369_zpsc517269e.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0370_zps0ba61555.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0370_zps0ba61555.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0370_zps0ba61555.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0371_zpscbe3198b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0371_zpscbe3198b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0371_zpscbe3198b.jpg"/></a>

And here is the garage, Thankfully the wife is ok with that! I let her foster a doggy who need some help, so she is happy with that.
<a href="http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/laurentlesage/media/DSC_0372_zpse85233c7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w364/laurentlesage/DSC_0372_zpse85233c7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0372_zpse85233c7.jpg"/></a>

My Choice will go to the Sanderson, they are cheaper and I like the fact you don"t have to put gasket on it they say just some Permatex. Interesting.

:-X22 Looking good .. The frame is really good shape the radiator support mounting holes are still original shape that's a + .. The evap tank on passenger rail ? Do you have emissions in Fl.? My wife wants to start a 12 step program for Ford enthusiast's wives your wife may be interested :-X04

No I never heard about emissions in Florida! Should I get rid of the canister? And what about the line coming from the gas tank for the vapor, could I cut the line and put like a small crankcase filter?
Yes I am sure my wife will be interested, she already say talking to the truck :"The beast who steal my husband..."

Saw these today
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-Headers-352-360-390-428-/121347672672?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c40e28a60 they might fit ..
I would take the canister out only to clean the frame and paint .. cap the lines for now and if it is needed you can add back and use a carb like the Ford/Holley 4180c (600 cfm) which can be set up for the canister or not .. I can give you a lot of info on this carb .. I rebuilt one for my 460 and 390 and absolutely love them .. They can be gotten for $75 and they already have provisions for the ford auto (C-6) kickdown linkage .. They require some modifications but can be made to be great carbs for around $100

Yes I did take the canister out for cleaning! I will keep it.
Sure, give me some info on those carb, they seem cheap, I like that!
Thanks for the link for those headers, I am going to look to make sure they can fit, It will be hard to beat $100, I need to look for the shipping cost now... ;-)

No problem on the link hope it works out .. That's $75 for good builder and $100 in parts to make it better than any 4160 .. You can't beat that for a Holley vacuum secondary carb ..

Here is a 4180c in arlington for $75 where are you in florida ?
holly carb. if you inquire there is a number we need off it to see if it was made after 85


http://images.craigslist.org/00k0k_f...RN_600x450.jpg

I am in the West Palm area, kind of far from Jacksonville, I will get in touch with the seller, if he accept to ship it.
I am still looking to find a good machine shop for my engine.
Also I have to get the 390 crankshaft an the connecting rod. Do you think this is something I could buy before bringing the block to the shop? I know for the piston I will have to wait and see what bore I will have. I measured the piston chamber and I had like 4.049 with my digital caliper, that let me think the engine was never re bored. Maybe I could be good with just a honing!
I should receive my rebuilt heads next week.
I have to think about the transmission! I am planing to keep the 3 speed because of my budget, I didn't have problem shifting but since it is out of the car, is there anything I should do?
Thanks again for all the help.

I would wait on the crank until you know the block is worth using because if you should have to get another one you may find a complete rebuildable 390 that will have a crank .. The rods that your looking at are a good value because even if you had a set of rods to be reconditioned it would probably cost you more to go that way .. Don't worry about the trans right now you can do a clutch kit fro m Luk probably for $80 from rock auto and that includes everything you'll need to redo it .. You can save some money by finding a good duraspark II distributor core for a 390 .. I might have one, I'll check tomorrow .. "Maybe I could be good with just a honing" that's good .. You just need to find out how far out of round the cylinders are to determine if a hone will get you by .. My 68 galaxie 500 motor had 80,000 miles on it and a hone was all it needed .. Take your time enjoy the process .. Wish you well and I will help any way I can .. BTW I'm french Canadian and Native American (Oneida) .. My people are from Quebec and central New York state

I will follow your advice and wait until the block is at the machine shop. I know it is going to take me some time anyway.
Tabernacle! I had never heard about Oneida, you learn something new everyday!

By the way I was trying to take my steering rod to give it a good clean and paint it, and it is really hard to take it a part. I took all the castle nut, try to hit it with a mallet, nothing move!... Any advice?

The harmonic balancer puller should work on the steering wheel with the right bolts .. A puller is the only way to get it off ..
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...7ydMySOErGX12Q

Here I am, late to the party again! Guess I should stay current on the threads that I follow :-X19.
The Ford FE pumps a lot of oil to the top end and this isn't necessary. It's better to restrict the flow to the rocker arms and keep the oil in the pan.
The mod you're talking about is really easy. There is NO drilling or tapping required.
The Holley carb jets just sit in the galley, the OD of the jet is the perfect size for the ID of the galley. The bolt for the rocker arm stand keeps the jet from coming out. When I did my mod I used Holley #70 jets.
The first picture is the jet in place, the second picture shows there's more than enough oil flow. I'm using a cordless drill to spin the pump. The third and fourth pictures are my formerly 360 now 390 engine, yeah, I like to show it off :-X04.

real nice Mike :-X22 .. I needed to see the A/C bracket .. Do you have a link for the A/C pump conversion bracketry (york to sanderson) ?

Thanks.
Here's a link to the bracket. I had all the factory brackets so this is the one I used. They also have one that allows you to pivot the compressor to tighten the belt.
Nostalgic Air has probably anything you'll need to do the conversion, including the compressor.
Nostalgic AC - York Compressor Adapter Plate / Universal Mount - Misc Compressor Mounts - Mount Kits & Pulleys

Thanks Mike I appreciate it .. I hate to admit it but the older I get the more A/C is a necessity .. I remember driving my 73 F250 across the country with no A/C in the hottest part of Summer with a C-6 and no floor covering .. Stopped at every swimming hole between Colo. and Pa. .. You only do something like that when your young

I know what you mean. When I got the Pumpkin in 1985, it had add on A/C that didn't work. I never got it fixed, drove it all over the country including CA, AZ and west Texas. Didn't bother me at all. Now, nearly thirty years later, adding factory air during the resto was at the top of my things to do list.

Mike,
Your engine looks really good!
I knew a jet could do it but I never thought I will not have to drill or tap, that's even better, thanks.
Mine didn't came with AC! :(

Wow, I was trying to remember who offered those brackets, and you posted the link. I bookmarked it for future reference.....
Dad's truck has factory A/C that still works, but it could really use an updated/upgraded compressor.....

Thanks for posting that!

Here is a little update,
I find a machine shop in the West Palm Beach area and
here is what they charge:

- Bore and hone block: $35 each hole
- Clean block: $85
- Remove and reinstall cam bearing: $55 labor only no cam bearing part
- Reinstall piston: $10 each
- Recondition crank: $185
- Recondition rods: $15-20 each
- Recondition head: cast iron head: $105 each. Labor only no valves, guides or seats included

The crank and rods I will buy will be already reconditioned from Survival Motorsports.
And I bought a pair of rebuilt head with CJ valve.

I read the FE engine are internally balanced except for the 410-428 if I remember correctly. Does that mean I should do the balancing with the rods and pistons? the rods and crank are original reconditioned from a 390, and I don't know yet which piston I will have!

I know I don't want the compression going above 9:1

Concerning the camshaft I was thinking about the Comp Cam 33-321-3:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford

I am going to do the oil modification this week, and I will probably
bring the block next week. But I am a bit anxious when I compare with the price from Redroad's link: Engine House: engine house, crankshafts, engine block, cylinder head, connecting rod, automotive machine shop,
It is a more than double to bore and hone a V8!!!
What do you guys think?

I am going to try to find an other shop.

Yeah that's way high .. Take the time and go meet the people and look over their shop .. Talk to customers .. It's a lot of money your laying out so be confident with your choice before you pull the trigger .. yes have the motor balanced with the complete rotating assembly in place .. A shop that also provides this service might be a better choice .. Ask about whether they clean the motor in-house and if you can be there when they measure the state of your block so you can make decisions on the machine work .. If they balk at the idea go elsewhere

When I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago, I had the machine shop bore the cylinders +.030" replace the cam bearings, clean the block and heads, surface the heads on both the deck and exhaust flanges, replace the exhaust valve seats with hard seats and install valve guides. I also had them check the block deck and main bearing bores for alignment. The deck and mains were okay and didn't need any machine work. I also had them balance the entire reciprocating assy. (Crank, rods, pistons, flex plate, harmonic balancer). I supplied all the parts except valve seats and guides. The crank and rods were already reconditioned. In my case the shop had to add weight to the crank to get everything balanced. I also wanted the heads to be good for unleaded and supplied new intake and stainless steel exhaust valves.
The total for machine work was, if I remember right, $985.00.

Mike I think the price seems reasonable for the work done, It looks like balancing the rotating assembly is not the cheapest thing!

Well, here is an other machine shop, is it me or it is getting worse!!:

"
[U]This price sheet applies to most American V8 non-modular engines:

Engines must be drained of ALL fluids. There will be a charge to dispose of any oil/coolant if left in the engine.

Note: All parts must be cleaned prior to machining. (We can clean them or you can clean them, your choice)
Marine engines: There may be additional costs in cleaning marine engine parts due to the inherent nature of marine engines and oxidation.

Engine disassembly and inspection $200 (This assumes a long block only, with NO exhaust manifolds, mounts, or accessories, and also that all fasteners can be removed without trouble. Accessories can be removed for an additional charge)


HEAD WORK:

Disassemble & clean cylinder head castings $125

Repair valve guides with bronze liners $160

Resurface heads $100/pair

Multi angle valve job, adjust valve spring heights and assemble heads $300

PISTON, ROD, & CRANK WORK:

Press pistons off rods $24

Recondition connecting rods $120

Pin fit pistons and rods $80

Flycut valve pockets $15/per pocket

Install pistons on rods $48

Balance rotating assembly $250 (Additional charge for Mallory metal, if needed)

Polish crankshaft $50, or regrind crankshaft $125

BLOCK WORK:

Remove cam bearings and core plugs, degrease block $100

Parallel/Square decks $150 (resurface block)

Align hone mains $175

Bore & hone cylinders with torque plate $250

Deglaze cylinders $80

Install cylinder sleeve $100

Clearance block for stroker $Per hour

Blueprint main and rod bearing clearances $150 (Comes with spec sheet. This is included in the short block and full engine assembly labor)

Final clean & prep block for assembly, install cam bearings and core plugs $145

Blueprint and assemble short block $500 (includes blueprint main and rod bearing clearances, gap rings, install rotating assembly and degree camshaft)

- OR -

Blueprint and assemble long block $950 (includes short block assembly, installing cylinder heads, valve train, timing cover, oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold, distributor, and priming of oil system) "

I will keep looking.

Here is a little update:

I receive my new heads
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7bb1948e.jpg

http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/...psac1dd690.jpg

I realized that the 2 rocker shaft was bent. One more than the other one! And since I also had 4 springs who were broken. I found a good deal on Ebay for 4 complete set of rocker arm with tray and push rod, rocker shape are from good to excellent. Hopefully I will be able to make 2 good one.

I ordered the crankshaft from Survival last Friday, and still no news from them, I will give them a call today...

Good news .. Nice heads .. Any news on on condition of your block ? Sending you a PM on some other parts you may or may not need .. Thanks for the update :-X22