I guess I could test them and let everyone know how they work. is there anyway to see what they are doing with the AE scan tool??
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I've been using the MC SP515 since 60K.. Truck has 78K on it now. All seems ok.
I ran an AE mode 6 report just this morning while troubleshooting my headlights; there doesn't appear to be any misfiring or anything unusual. |
Originally Posted by docweld
(Post 12788724)
I want to change the spark plugs on my 2007 F150 5.4L. What are the best plugs to put in? E3's??
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum. They also could very well be manufactured under a license agreement by E3 because the electrode design is sooooo very similar & the cost (retail and actual) is almost identical. FYI about the replacement Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did… 1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs) 2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster. 3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to) 4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully) The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described. As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters. Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours. |
thank you Beechkid, that was very good info!
would these be ok or better then the stock ones? 2007 FORD F 150 Ford Racing Modular 3-Valve Zero Degree Spark Plugs M-12405-3V0 - SummitRacing.com (Motocraft) / (ford racing) Electrode Core Material Copper / Copper Electrode Tip Material Platinum / Copper ThanksDesigned for use in engines with higher-than-stock cylinder combustion pressures, these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are prefect for your Ford. Their unique design is proprietary to Ford 3-valve engines and they are only available from Ford Racing. The Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are one heat range colder than the OEM Ford Mustang GT, and two heat ranges colder that the stock 5.4L truck engines. Keep your engine firing on all eight cylinders with a set of these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs. |
Originally Posted by docweld
(Post 12797641)
thank you Beechkid, that was very good info!
would these be ok or better then the stock ones? 2007 FORD F 150 Ford Racing Modular 3-Valve Zero Degree Spark Plugs M-12405-3V0 - SummitRacing.com (Motocraft) / (ford racing) Electrode Core Material Copper / Copper Electrode Tip Material Platinum / Copper ThanksDesigned for use in engines with higher-than-stock cylinder combustion pressures, these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are prefect for your Ford. Their unique design is proprietary to Ford 3-valve engines and they are only available from Ford Racing. The Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs are one heat range colder than the OEM Ford Mustang GT, and two heat ranges colder that the stock 5.4L truck engines. Keep your engine firing on all eight cylinders with a set of these Ford Racing modular 3-valve zero degree spark plugs. BTW- someone mention that the new MC plugs are still 2 piece- well, not exactly- they are welded not crimped as the other were....same as the 1-piece champions....the last time I looked. |
Thank you! too cold is what I was thinking but was not sure.
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Don't forget some anti-seize on the plug threads.
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thanks, I did not know that for plugs.
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Looking for sparkplugs for 2007 5.4 flex fuel
Originally Posted by docweld
(Post 12788724)
I want to change the spark plugs on my 2007 F150 5.4L. What are the best plugs to put in? E3's??
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