Usually the PCV valve fits into a rubber grommet that fits the opening of the valve cover.
Given everything else you've found it wouldn't surprise me.

The proper grommet can often be found in the Dorman/Motormite 'HELP' section of the autoparts store.

The oldest listing I see in the current catalog is a '83-86 Ford grommet #42325.
Buy the proper PCV valve for whatever year engine you have and find one that will fit.
Something like their 46033 PCV hose (listed for a Chrysler) is plenty long and almost universal.
You could cut it to length and it has the right angle bend you need to get to the front of your carburetor.

 

I am going to weigh in on this, I used to own a carburetor shop. Your choke vacuum comes out at the black hose that goes up to the air horn area. If you want to keep the choke from coming back on early, take a page from Ford's book, put your heater inlet hose against the choke thermostat.

Port #1 is probably vacuum, either direct or ported for spark advance, the one high on the main body is most likely a venturii signal for some EGR systems. BTW, that is a trick looking carb.

Dual line bowls as has been said do not a double pumper make, Holley built spread bore carburetors with either front or side inlet fuel connections, a transfer tube down the left side and double accelerator pumps.

Good luck with it, hopefully it will run well for you.

 

Ok, finally got to work on this today...work is killing me. So I got it all hooked up, replaced all the plugs (they were gas fouled from bad gas), and it cranked on the first try (surprising since its been sitting there for over a year). Two things:

1) when it cranked the idle was extremely high, but I dont have the choke power cable on yet, I just had the butterfly closed on the front ports to see if it would crank. so could the way high idle be the lack of choke or does it need adjusted down? if adjusted, can you verify which screw affects it?

2)The carb has the dual fuel connectors. When trying to crank or run, the front one is fine but the back one is POURING gas. I have taken it apart and put it back together over and over but with the same result. The kit didnt come with any kind of washers whatsoever, should there be one in there? All I did was wrap the threads with teflon tape. I did the same to the front as the back but no leaking on the front.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Its getting dropped off at the paint shop on Wednesday and would love to be able to drive it on the trailer instead of push...

Thanks!
Shane

 

Glad to hear you've found time to work on this.

Simple answers, hopefully some insight...

1) Concentric to the choke pivot (behind the coiled spring housing) there should be a little pawl, called the fast idle cam.
This will cause a high idle until the engine reaches full operating temperature.

Or, you could have a vacuum leak... or a dozen other things.
But this is an explanation as to why the idle -should- be high.
It is adjustable.

2) The fuel log (dual fuel line feed manifold) -should- have flare fittings.
There is no need for tape, or any other sealant.
The threads do not do any sealing.
Remove it and check the sealing surface of the flare and that of the carburetor inlet.
Even a tiny nick or other distortion will cause a leak.

A new log or even a secondary float bowl inlet fitting is a LOT cheaper than watching your truck go up in flames.

Just my 2c.

 

Thanks for the reply. I won't get a chance to lookout it again till Tuesday but I'll check those things. The log is new, and I did look at the flares yesterday but didn't see any problems there however I didn't look into the carb where they butt up, maybe there's something there...

Thanks!
Shane