Ok on the phone with him and he says he somehow shorted out some wires on his throttle assy. Not sure if hes talking about his TPS but he had an aftermarket wire secured to those wires with tape just to keep it out of the way. Somehow shorted the aftermarket wire and melted that jacket and a little bit of the stock wiring. Now his truck cranks but won't start. Hes not sure if he hears the fuel pump running before crank. The WTS light also wont come on. I had him check all the fuses in dash and under hood as well as the relays and fuel pump reset. Doesn't seem to work. He doesnt have a meter on hand and has repaired the stock wires. Any ideas?

 

If the WTS light won't come on check the #30 fuse.

 

Ive had him check them. I don't know how hes checking them. Told him to pull it out and look. Says all looks good But I'll reiterate that to him. Thanks!

 

Rechecked it carefully and closely says its good. Even had him check the PCM relay up front. It clicks so we know its working.

 

When he cranks it over does it smoke ( a sign of it getting fuel or not).

 

Nope he mentioned no smoke before.

 

When my CPS went it wouldnt start and caused no fuel to get through. But my W2S light worked. Hmm id say start were he make the UT OHH and follow the wires and see where they go and check them.

Sorry im no help. and Sorry about his luck.

 

Yea I know. Its like losing one of our own. lol I'll keep working with him and see what we can come up with. Unfortunately we're on opposite sides of the country to be of any REAL help! Thanks for your input tho!

 

HELP !!!! ugh. it is like losing one of your own

 

He needs to go back and see how much damage to the stock wire harness when the melting occurred and also recheck the fuses related to the TPS. Check the fuses with a test light or meter, just physically looking at a fuse can sometimes be misleading. He also needs to trace the harness if he can to see if there is another area where the wires shorted out. There maybe a break in the wire or a melted plug connector.

 

So just a recap....

Yesterday I wanted to switch the two functions of my reverse light switch and my fog/off road light switch. I took the dash off, and unplugged the ground, power supply, and on acc. wires from the switch. When pulling them back through to re-route them, I was reminded (with a smoking wire) that I had forgotten to disconnect the negatives on my battery. I quickly snipped the wire to stop it from burning up.

I removed the burnt up wire, and buttoned it all back up. Turned my ignition on. The wait to start light was no longer coming on and I couldn't hear my glow plugs cycling (you know where the light turns off and you can hear a hum until it goes "click"). It is no longer making those noises.

I treid starting it and it cranked very well (just replaced alternator -- batteries tested good -- starter tested good-- new glow plugs as well). It would crank but wouldn't turn over. There is no smoke coming out of the pipe while it is cranking. I know from experience with bad glow plugs in the winter that it should do that. So I think that the engine is not getting fuel!

The wire that I burnt up was taped to some existing wires for routing purposes. They were the wires that come off of my throttle pedal. There were 2 black ones and a yellow one. I saw that the casings on the two black wires had spots where they were either worn out and exposing the wire a little bit, or the burning wire had made them exposed. I spliced in some 18gauge on both wires to make sure this wasn't the reason it wasn't firing.... didn't help... same thing happening. Here you can see where I spliced.




Sorry I didn't clearly re-bundle the spliced black wires together with the yellow. Those two red ones go to something on the throttle as well but dont seem to be harmed at all.
Called Mikey and he looked stuff up for me since I dont have internet at home. checked all fuses visually. Tested relays. Pressed the fuel reset button on the passenger side floor in the cab.

Question - I pushed it down very hard but I didn't feel like it really depressed at all. Is this button supposed to be like that? Just firm and doesn't have much play? The button sits in what feels like a cylindrical housing. Is it supposed to sit flush with the top of that housing? because it was not flush at the top, it was down in the housing a bit. I'm wondering if it is stuck pushed down or something.

Anyways... I am at work with no vehicle and it feels like I have been stabbed in the heart! Please help if you can. Thanks

 

Bryce the fuel reset is like a circuit breaker. It will pop up if tripped. If it didn't go down means it wasn't tripped. Thinking about this now is it possible that you spliced the wires together wrong? Did you do one at a time so you didn't confuse them? Also check that plug on the connector right there. Maybe could have some problem in the plug.

 

That quote is from this link.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-gp-light.html
Looks like the guy on this link had about the same problem

 

No. I spliced them correctly. I clipped and spliced one at a time to make sure. Ya I will check the plug as well. Maybe it got fried up. I need to borrow my buddies meter to check my gpr and all my fuses ...

This one too...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t-start-2.html

EDIT~~ So I have been reading around and What I am coming up with is that it is probably he fuel pump. I cannot hear the fuel pump when the ignition is on. Also, even though my 30 amp #30 fuse looks good I am going to replace it to make sure. I have a new GPR as well. I will test mine at lunch and replace if needed. I also just now remember that a cople of years ago my truck wouldn't fire and it kept blowing a certain fuse in cab fuse panel. I had it towed and looked at and he said something about a fuel heater sensor. Do you think I have a shorted fuel bowl heater or a bad fuel bowl heater sensor if there is such a thing?

 

A bad fuel bowl heater will blow your #30 fuse. That fuse also supplies power to your PCM. Unplug the heater, replace that fuse and see if you at least get the WTS light or better yet, get it started. You at least ruled out that element.