Before I get to far in the body work, I have been using rattle can primer filler while working out the pits and scratches. the product I am using is off the shelf from a local auto parts store and the brand is duplicolor. I plan to primer the whole truck with primer sealer after I get the truck into shape. (it is currently stripped down to the metal) I quess what I want to know is the primer filler correct to use for todays paint? or do I just wasted what I did. My Plans for a paint job is simple. Just maybe 2 or 3 color scheme paint job. I thought enamal was the norm but I here of others types. If it is not to much trouble to awnser or should I talk to auto paint supplier? Thanks in advance. Ron

 

I had no clue when I started stripping down to bare metal but talked to the guy at the paint supply shop and he and I think most paint guys would tell you to use an epoxy primer over your bare metal as a base and then your high build primers after that. This is what I've done so far to my panel, a guide coat and block sanding is next.

BODY, TECH Bondo 101 (Magic dent erasing compound) - THE H.A.M.B.

Check out this link as it has lot of good information and the guy is first class, he helped me out a few times when I emailed him.

 

I did the same thing with my truck. When I took it to be painted they told me all the rattle can primer would have to come off to be compatable with 2k urethane paint which is the norm in most paint shops. It was a nightmare because they didn't take the time to sand out the some of the scratches as well as I had so the paint came out like crap. It wasn't in the original price quote to do all the extra sanding, so they rushed it. I've spent more time re-prepping for repaint than when I started with the rattle can. I started a thread last week titled URETHANE PAINT.Check it out, lots of replys from some pros amoung us. Great info and guidance. 56panelford is right about the epoxy to seal and the 2k urethane primer to prep for paint. The chemistry must be compatable to work in paints used today.Hope that helps.

 

Glad I asked, Started out wrong....Thanks for the info I will check it out. Thanks Ron

 

Most epoxy primers I'm familiar with require an etching primer undercoat on bare metal. Rattle can primer is a waste of money and time IMHO, needs to be removed before any serious painting.
My suggestion is to pick the brand and type of finish paint you will be using, then use the entire paint system the manufacturer recommends for that same brand, including primer(s) sealer, reducer. You can use off brand solvents for equipment cleaning IF you remove/dry them completely before reusing the equipment. You may be lucky with mixing brands and products and not run into a compatability issue, but with the price of today's paints why take a chance?

 

I have done bodywork now for over 40 years (damn I'm getting old)...in the "old" days we would "pickle" bare metal and then use lacquer primer. Later came "metal etching primers" which are now extinct as well. Today there are products like SEM Metalock Direct To Metal (DTM) which is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Used straight from the can (after mixing in the catalyst) it is a high-build DTM primer, thin it a bit and it is a surfacer, thin it some more and it is a sealer. When used as a sealer the color coat (in most cases this would be your color basecoat) can be applied directly after flash so no further sanding is necessary between sealer and color coats. A gallon of primer with a quart of activator runs anywhere from $80 - $110 depending on who you buy it from. If you have compressed air and a spray gun give it a try you'll never go back to a rattle can!