As some of you know, I installed the DJM lowering I-Beams on the front of my 66 F100. I noticed after awhile my truck was pulling to the right when I braked, since I installed a new master cylinder I assumed it was air in the lines, I pressure bled the brakes and the truck still pulled to the right and started wandering on the road, as it turns out it was the DJM Tie Rod relocators that come with the I beam kit. Now the facts...................
All twin I beam kits from 1965 to 1979 that DJM sells have the same tie rod relocators, the hole on the bottom of the tie rod relocator is tapered to accept the stock ball joints, however the threaded stud portion of the tie rod relocator that bolts to the spindle is a straight shaft, it bolts thru the stock spindle hole which is tapered and the stud is to small for the hole, so what occured was repeated movement of the stud wore the spindle hole until there was excessive play, I called DJM and their tech said to cut some strips off an aluminum beer can and wrap it around the stud to take away the play....
(I swear to god thats what they told me to do!)

So I pulled the spindles off the truck and brought them to a machine shop, they looked at them and said since the holes were oblonged I needed new spindles and there was nothing they could do for me. Soooo... I went to the Steel yard and bought 1 ft of 3/4" O.D metal pipe with an inside diameter of 1/2" I drilled the spindle's ball joint hole to 3/4" and since that area of the spindle was 1" wide I cut a piece of pipe at 1", I then used a mic and measured the shaft on the tie rod relocator and drilled the inside of the pipe to that size, I pressed the new sleeve into the spindle and the straight shaft of the tie rod relocator stud slid into that, I then assembled the spindles on the I beams, reconnected the tie rods and brake components and torqued the tie rod relocators to the manufacturers recommeded 140 ft pounds then I re aligned the front end, greased everything and took it for a test drive and since the truck drove tight again it looks like it was a perfect fix. Even if I bought new spindles the hole's would be tapered and the stud on the tie rod relocator would still be straight. If you have installed the DJM I Beams on your truck and your truck pulls or wanders on the road then check your Tie Rod Relocators for excessive play.

 

Ah technical support from the clueless. I like it when someone has no clue what they are doing is given the power to answer technical questions. At the point of that discovery I'll ask them to further clarify it by sending their advise me in an email so I can refer back to and understand it after hours. Most of the time I get one, at which point I start to gather all the information against their claims and send it back. Not with the intention of harassing them but to put an end to the unsafe advice or ignorance they have. I can't say that I have ever gotten a positive responce but I will say I feel better.

OLE thanks for the heads up on what the problem is and how you addressed it.

 

Is this still a known problem? Yes I know it's an old thread.

 

mine are tight as ever and fine after 2 years. its not a good solution but its the only solution. some say the aim ones are better, but my djm ones are fine

 

Thanks Matt. I have to wonder how a regular bolt is suppose to stay tight in a tapered whole unless the kit has changed??

 

nylock nut and a HUGE star washer.

 

Ok. Cool. Thanks.

 

It shouldn't matter that, "yours" is still tight, if they are puting a straight bolt in a tapered hole it is wrong, and it is a potential hazzard. If it were mine I would take it apart and resleeve it. It's your steering, not the radio ****.

As for the machine shop that couldn't figure out how to fix it, I wouldn't go back there again for repairs on my Revell model kit.

 

Sometimes it is better to pass on the work than to risk bonding and liability insurance performing what the DOT deems high risk repairs.

 

The guy I take my parts to be powder coated at does some repairs welding/machining and he will pass on doing any work involved with steering braking or suspension on anyone's projects. as he said it's to big of a overhang on him if something were to fail. He don't want it to be his fault or put anyone in harms way. some regular business machine shops do the same for safety reasons. I don't blame them as this world is full of people waiting to sue for anything now days.

 

I seen this with the chassis tech relocators as well they put a tapered tie rod in a straight hole and just use a nut on top like DJM i welded mine in all around the top and bottom no way there ever coming off unless the welds break i left the nut on top for safety i had a welding shop do the welding looks solid .

 

Seven year old thread . . .

 

I know .....although you do not need to log in or be a member to see FTE post or threads i found this by just punching up DJM tie rod relocators so any one who is having a issue will see it , i didnt see welding them in metioned just adding in my 2 cents on the subject ...

 

Funny this should pop up now, as I am installing the DJM beam kit. Kind of wondering if filling the gap between the tapered hole and the straight shank bolt with metal epoxy would provide that extra margin of safety?

 

Yeah that might be a good idea then it cant move back and forth a sleeve would be the best but i understand the original post said it trashed his tapered hole so he drilled it out and put a sleeve n it putting jb weld or epoxy then if you ever wanted to remove it you can . Also the AIM ones are not better those are the ones i used that is chassis tech , air baggit firebird industrial its all the same co . And its a different design but same thing straight shank and taperd spindle no tapered bushing thats why i welded mine on i also had to use DJM beams i had firebird industrial as they called themselves now they made the beams different one wheel was center the other was 3/4 in towrd the front they would not replace the beam. I would not by beams from them if anyone reads this post and considering beam purchase its a shame too since with Chassis tech , fire turd 💩 AIM whatever they want to call themselves i could go 5 .25 " drop with the beams and a 2" drop spring the DJM you can only go 4" max therr thicker than Air garbage beams and the drivers side can hit the cross member if you go to low .