Surface rust on rear doors
#1
Surface rust on rear doors
Yup me too! I'm actually surprised its not that bad considering I live in the salt laden state of Illinois. Anyhow when I decided to detail my vehicle a month or so back, I pulled the plastic trim at the bottoms of the doors (off sub, I broke one, can I buy a replacement?) to clean and also inspect what corrosion I had. Surprisingly, it's only the rear doors that has some rust coming through behind the sheet metal lip where the door skin is rolled onto the door frame. No bubbling through; it looks to be all surface rust.
I went to a body shop we've used multiple times on my lunch break and the owner told me that because it's not bad, he'd simply wire brush the area and apply a product called Rust-Mort and let it be. He continued to say that if his shop would do the work all they could so is clean the area too and prime/paint the area which would only delay the rust. I asked about rolling the metal door skin back and cleaning behind it but he said that would only cause major body work as and essentially wasn't worth it for the minimal damage I have. Bottom line quote was $125 a door if they tackle it.
What I'm not sure about it is the TSB from Ford. Didn't it indicate there was a specialty tool for rolling back the lip and removing corrosion from there?
I'm not sure what direction to take at this point. I wouldn't mind being able to do the work myself. My only concern is if I can get inside the door panel and be able to coat the bottom of the door with a rust inhibitor/converter such as Rust-Mort, POR 15. or Chassis Saver. I'd feel more confident knowing I sealed the bottom of the door vs. a guy at Ziebart.
Thoughts?
I went to a body shop we've used multiple times on my lunch break and the owner told me that because it's not bad, he'd simply wire brush the area and apply a product called Rust-Mort and let it be. He continued to say that if his shop would do the work all they could so is clean the area too and prime/paint the area which would only delay the rust. I asked about rolling the metal door skin back and cleaning behind it but he said that would only cause major body work as and essentially wasn't worth it for the minimal damage I have. Bottom line quote was $125 a door if they tackle it.
What I'm not sure about it is the TSB from Ford. Didn't it indicate there was a specialty tool for rolling back the lip and removing corrosion from there?
I'm not sure what direction to take at this point. I wouldn't mind being able to do the work myself. My only concern is if I can get inside the door panel and be able to coat the bottom of the door with a rust inhibitor/converter such as Rust-Mort, POR 15. or Chassis Saver. I'd feel more confident knowing I sealed the bottom of the door vs. a guy at Ziebart.
Thoughts?
#2
Don't try to roll the door skin off the bottom edge of the door as you will just cause a lot of distortion on the panel. Just use the stuff the shop was going to use but do it on the inside and the outside of the door, then paint or pour paint inside the door to seal it and refinish the bottoms with a matching rattle can of paint. Otherwise go to the bone yards and look for perfect doors and work out a trade in deal with them for their doors.
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