The short: The turbo pipe blew off of my 2006 F250 6.0 while accelerating from a stop sign and the truck shut off immediately. The engine has never hit again, or even bothered to tease me with a sputter. Instead, it just arrogantly cranks into perpetuity as if it is some diabolical fiend with a willful hatred of life. It had been bulletproofed a few weeks prior to this, and everything seemed to be alright after a few days of being back together. I drove it for a few weeks and then this frustrating breakdown occurred. The engine has pressure in the high pressure oil system and is getting fuel. It shut off immediately when the pipe blew and does nothing but spite me now. The only codes I am getting are glow plug codes. I have the Torque app to read ICP and IPR, and can't figure out what the problem is. If you can't tell, I am at my wits' end with fighting this jagged apparatus of torment..

The long: I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 Powerstroke diesel that has about 260,000 miles on the clock. I noticed it was building pressure in the degas bottle, so decided to go ahead and replace the head gaskets and put in the head studs. This is the second 6.0 to which I have done such work, as I did this job on my brother's truck a few years ago and his truck has been fine. Before the bulletproofing job the truck had shut off twice while sitting at idle. To be specific, it was idling smoothly and just shut off without warning. Both times it started back up easily and immediately so I did not think much of it; therefore, I have no idea if those incidents are related to my current dilemma. The truck has always ran and idled smoothly, that is, when it will agree to run, and the two shutoffs are the only unusual behaviors it has ever displayed prior to the head work. It has always started quickly, whether hot or cold, and consistently started much quicker than my brother's 2003 6.0.

After we did the bulletproof job, the truck was very slow to start up again, but I expected this. The turbo pipe blew off on the initial drive; however, I was not too worried about this because the coupling was not very clean and the clamp had not been fastened very tight. The truck did not shut off when this happened. The next day, I drove a short distance and after turning the truck off it would not start again a few minutes later. It would crank quickly, but didn't act like it was getting fuel. Again, I did not think much of this since I had just done such serious work. After a long amount of cranking and coaxing, it fired up and ran fine. Furthermore, it continued to start quickly and run fine for a few weeks thereafter. I mentally wrote this event off as some effect of having done the head work and the engine not yet running enough to sort out itself; yet, it may be related to the current problem. After a few weeks of operating smoothly without any further incident, it decided to grace me with a wonderful breakdown while accelerating.

While accelerating from a stop sign, the turbo pipe blew off and the engine immediately stalled. It would not hit and had to be towed home. We tried starting the truck with the ICP sensor unplugged and plugged. Nothing makes a difference. It turns over quickly but acts as if the injectors are not attempting to work. At first I thought this was a problem with the high oil pressure system, but now am thinking it is an electronic problem of some capacity. No codes are shown other than glow plug codes, although the ICP sensor voltage code is displayed when it is unplugged. The glow plug codes were present prior to this incident.

I have no idea if the turbo pipe blowing off has anything to do with the real problem or not, but it all happened at once and now it will neither start nor run.

I used the Torque app to check the ICP and IPR data, and have some findings posted below. Since I initially thought there might be a high pressure oil leak, I replaced the high pressure oil stand pipes. This did make an improvement in the data, which showed that the engine consistently gained about 400 more psi while trying to start. It is worth noting that the IPR duty cycle never rises to 85%, but seems to float in the 50s and 60s. On my brother's truck, the IPR goes to 85% duty cycle and then bleeds down. I wanted to suspect a problem with the IPR, but since the ICP pressure is reading around 1250-1350psi, it appears the truck has adequate pressure to start. I generally keep the ICP sensor unplugged. The FICM is getting about 47.5-48.5 volts, so I am not suspecting that it is the problem, but I am open to someone's insight of such mysteries. The rear most wiring harness plug going into the FICM has the plastic broke, which damages my confidence in it, but this was its state when I first started working on the truck. The truck does not smoke or anything like this when trying to start, and it didn't produce a unique smoke prior to this breakdown.

Any help and wisdom on this problem is greatly appreciated, this feels like beating my head against a brick wall!!

Here is data from before the High Pressure Oil Stand Pipes were replaced. (ICP sensor unpulgged) The pressure is roughly 400 PSI lower on average


Here are data readings from after replacing the High Pressure Oil Stand Pipes. (ICP sensor unplugged) Battery is a little low from cranking, but that was not always the case.

 

My first thought when you say it just cranks and does not even try is the cam position sensor.

maybe when it failed it popped the boot off with an out of time something.

Remember I am middle management, so it is just a guess.

 

Why do you have the ICP sensor unplugged? You can’t see actual ICP pressure with it unplugged. What you are seeing is the PCM substituted value or in other words it’s guess of what pressure should be. What is ICP while cranking with the sensor plugged in?

 

Turbo hose blowing off could be related to housekeeping (simply not clean before install or bad install), overboost -- 260K on the clock could be turbo vanes sticking and THIS very thing will happen.

Here's a shortened version of what you need:

FICM SYNC (YES when cranking, If the FICM SYNC always says NO, there is a loss of camshaft position signal or crankshaft position signal)

FICM L power (above 11.5 volts)

FICM V power (above 11.5 volts)

FICM M power (45 volts or above, if FICM M power is significantly below 45 volts and L and V power were above 11.5, suspect a FICM module)

ICP (500 psi for a Green Flag)

IPR (should not reach and maintain 85%)

Fuel pressure should be 45 PSI or higher.

If all the above pass, run an injector self test for codes. If any, access fuel injector connectors, put inductive amp probe around each wire, one at a time leaving the connector plugged in. Then crank --->, if the FICM is firing the injectors, there should be a 20 amp pulse going to each injector. Also amp current check glow plugs, each glow plug should draw 17 to 20 amps.

If the injectors are being pulsed, fuel pressure and high pressure oil are ok, perform bubble test to check for compression getting into the fuel system.

Continuing --- If all the above pass, but still NO START, drop the exhaust, fire it up unadulterated (temporarily bypassing state and fed laws)

Finally -- if still NO START, pull the glow plugs, check engine compression --- looking for 400 PSI.

And lastly, not sure, but that Inertia switch (fuel) circuit could have also been triggered on that turbo issue.........(violent stop, change in engine dynamics abruptly)



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