Yes. I've already contacted them, they said even though they do not have our truck listed in their catalog they can make a set to fit.

 

What was you launch technique? My truck with a very mild 429 and 3.50 gears, same tires as yours did best by shallow staging, leaving on the last yellow. I slowly rolled on the throttle until the suspension loaded up and the truck was moving. I was nearly to the 60' mark by the time I had full throttle.but it was fairly consistent. Usually 9.15 to 9.25 . I don't remember the 60' times they were terrible. Power braking or punchin the throttle were detrimental to times. The more time you pick up before the 60' shows a greater improvement in ET. Fix your launch then you can tune everything else. On my combo I felt it easily had another 3-4 tenths improvement potential in traction. The motor sometimes feels stronger than it is when you have poor traction, so when it hooks it will show up areas that need tuning like ignition curve, shift points etc..

 

I love my CalTrac springs and traction bars. They are the best upgrade my big block Stang has had. Got them from Alex at Money Maker Racing, best price.
It seems like a good set of wrinkle walls would be a better solution than adding weight. The CalTracs triangulate the lift to the front of the vehicle, so actually the weight of the whole truck will be on the rear tires.
By the way, Alex is very helpful, and an extremely knowledgeable drag racer. His # is 291-861-1214.

 

Oh yeah, I completely agree that a good rear suspension setup plus good slicks is the way to go to make a good drag racer. The technique of adding temporary weights is just a simple and cheap way to make a daily driver into a better occasional bracket racer.

For getting a consistent launch, guys used to put a mini-hydraulic damper in the throttle linkage. It was restricted only in one direction with a needle valve. It would mechanically limit how quickly you could open the throttle, but have no effect on the return. You could dial it in to match whatever traction capacity you had with your suspension and tires. This was years back, when bracket racing was just getting going. I don't know if NHRA still allows things like that.

 

I'm going to have to do something. My truck will break the tires loose at 45mph if I mash on it.

 

Learning to launch my truck was definatley a learning curve. My first time up I did a brake stand to heat up the tires. It looked cool but I learned that heating up street tires actually makes them more slippery.
So.... then I rolled up to the line with my fully inflated (35psi) slippery tires. Then I waited till I saw the green light before I stepped on the gas. Needless to say, I cut a brutal light, and didn;t get any traction till I was halfway down the track.

After that I talked to some other racers. I dropped my tire pressure to 20psi. In the burn out box, I just spun the tires a few times to clean them. Then when I saw the third yellow on the tree, I floored it. I cut 4/10th's off my reaction time. The tires gave a little squeal, but hooked up within half a truck length. I went from a 10.4 to a 9.5 ET...much better.

 

You can also take along a much stiffer throttle return spring, that you put on just at the track. That'll help you get a more precise and consistent throttle movement.

As with any kind of racing, it's all about experience. You have to learn to do all the little details consistently, and know how to judge the conditions and make minor adjustments to compensate.

 

i hope you have the 31 spline axels.my 28 snapped

 

I do have 31 spline axles, but I figure as long as the tires are spinning (not hooking up hard) I'm safe for now.

 

Just curious if you have posted the specs on your build ?
What type differential ?

 

When I first finshed the truck a few years ago, I posted my specs. Here's a very shortened list.
68 Mercury M-100 2wd long box, cut one loop off the front coils, and flipped the diff on top the rear springs to lower the truck. The rear end is a 9-inch, 3.25gears, LS from a '79 F150 Camper Special. The 460 and C6 came from the same '79. With the parts I have in the engine now, I figure It's around 425HP. The interior is stock. If there's anything else , feel free to ask.

 

What engine mods do you have?

 

Are you only running 1/8 mile track? No 1/4 mile (I know they are getting rarer, 1/8 mile tracks are getting to be more popular). Just curious, how do your times equate to 1/4 miles times?

 

Yes I was running on an 1/8th mile track. I checked an on-line time calculator that uses your 1/8th mile time to give you a 1/4 time, I think you just multiply by 1.6. My 1/4 time was in the 15 second range. I was surprised cuz it felt like was going faster than that.

As far as engine mods I have:
-'79 460 bored 30 over
-stock crank/ rods (football shaped rod bolts) all riding in Clevite bearings
-10:1 Keith Black pistons
-Comp Cams Extreme Energy 262 hyd cam, the rest of the valve train is stock
-Stealth CJ intake
-D3VE heads with the intake ports opened up to match the CJ intake, and the big bump removed from the exhaust ports
-points disributor with a Pertronix module to replace the points
-Accel coil and wires
-Holley 770 street avenger
-Sanderson 'shorty' headers into a true dual 3" exhaust with Flowmasters
-Cloyes roller 'straight up' timing set
That's all I can think of for now. I enterd all the info into a computer dyno program. I got 445 HP & 510 ft. lbs + or - 2%. I figure I'm safe saying it's aroung 425 HP.

 

Thanks for the info.