Desert 4 Core Radiator questions
#16
07-15-2010, 03:32 PM
Keep in mind, gentlemen, that the fluid in the transmission gets hot and cold while going through the coolers, just like the water from the engine. It may be 200 degrees at the top of the rad, where the hot water goes in, but the water is no where near that warm after it goes through the heat exchange portion of the rad (the core) and into the bottom tank, where the trans cooler tube is. The trans fluid is not passing through 200 degree water, and you're not pumping 200 degree water back into the engine. At least, it's not supposed to. ;-) So if warm trans fluid goes into one end of the cooler tube, colder fluid comes out the other end through that same heat exchange process. The temp gauges read the high temperatures after the respective fluids go through their systems. Obviously then, both engine and trans fluids start into their systems at much lower temps.
If using an external trans cooler in conjunction with an in-radiator cooler, it should be plumbed from the trans, to the external cooler, to the rad cooler, back to the trans. That cools the fluid before going into the radiator cooler, which then maintains a proper operating temperature for the transmission.
If using an external trans cooler in conjunction with an in-radiator cooler, it should be plumbed from the trans, to the external cooler, to the rad cooler, back to the trans. That cools the fluid before going into the radiator cooler, which then maintains a proper operating temperature for the transmission.
the problem with external cooler is airflow.. in stop & go traffic there is none.. ( I removed mine for this problem, after I solved my overheat problem). many of the externals come with cool little fans.
sam
#17
07-15-2010, 05:48 PM
Ok, I stand corrected. I was taught a long time ago that trans fluid needed to be kept within a certain temp range for optimal transmission operation. Not too hot, not too cold. That's the basis for my original plumbing arrangement. That's the way I was told. But researching the Hayden cooler site, it agrees with the trans to rad to external cooler to trans arrangement. I'm good with that.
Hayden - FAQs
http://www.haydenauto.com/Upload/Hay...il-coolers.pdf
Hayden - FAQs
http://www.haydenauto.com/Upload/Hay...il-coolers.pdf
#18
07-15-2010, 06:16 PM
Fleet Owner
Ok, I stand corrected. I was taught a long time ago that trans fluid needed to be kept within a certain temp range for optimal transmission operation. Not too hot, not too cold. That's the basis for my original plumbing arrangement. That's the way I was told. But researching the Hayden cooler site, it agrees with the trans to rad to external cooler to trans arrangement. I'm good with that.
Hayden - FAQs
http://www.haydenauto.com/Upload/Hay...il-coolers.pdf
Hayden - FAQs
http://www.haydenauto.com/Upload/Hay...il-coolers.pdf
The Porsche I have uses an engine oil cooler that is cooled by the water entering the block. This seemed like a similarly stupid idea, but it's an important part of their design. The car runs 20w50 all year; the "cooler" actually heats up the oil very quickly in the winter, then keeps it in a narrow temp range, so viscosity is constant. In the oil system they have metering orifices that flow just the amount of oil needed to the cam, so the mains and con rods don't starve. You can't get away with that if the viscosity isn't known. Same concept as the auto trannies, IMO -- they want warm oil to the control body.
#19
07-15-2010, 08:10 PM
Hey Sdetweil.
What kind of Thermostat do you have in your 460, brand and temp range? And what does your temp run at on your gauge? I got a 460 too and the reason me getting another radiator is it runs kinda warm for me, plus it was just plain poop. Plus do you have just a stock Water Pump or high volume? Electric Fan? I got the electric fan tied to the radiator. Thanks Dude
Patrick
What kind of Thermostat do you have in your 460, brand and temp range? And what does your temp run at on your gauge? I got a 460 too and the reason me getting another radiator is it runs kinda warm for me, plus it was just plain poop. Plus do you have just a stock Water Pump or high volume? Electric Fan? I got the electric fan tied to the radiator. Thanks Dude
Patrick
#20
07-15-2010, 08:24 PM
its a 180 degree stat, hi flow rate, autozone brand..
custom 6 core brass radiator (don't go there), that fits inside the rad U
(due to engine placement)..
its a stock flow new water pump brass impeller,
and I have dual 12in fans in a puller config, on a full rad body shroud.
also temp sender controlled.
you can read the whole saga here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7860155
but lately with the A/C running, and 95-98 degress outside, I am at around 200 degrees (laser temp).. I should have used the 195 stat.. or left in the restrictor.
Sam
custom 6 core brass radiator (don't go there), that fits inside the rad U
(due to engine placement)..
its a stock flow new water pump brass impeller,
and I have dual 12in fans in a puller config, on a full rad body shroud.
also temp sender controlled.
you can read the whole saga here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7860155
but lately with the A/C running, and 95-98 degress outside, I am at around 200 degrees (laser temp).. I should have used the 195 stat.. or left in the restrictor.
Sam
#21
07-15-2010, 09:46 PM
sdetweil
One more question. That hose you have coming off the top outlet on the radiator is pretty slick. I had one of the bendable hoses that you can form to make my bends, and I had the inlet on the intake manifold coming out at a 90, call me silly, but I didnt know you could get one coming straight up, thats all Ive ever had. Stupid me. I like yours. I see how you did that but, what did you use?
Ok. I just edited this post so... I read MOST all your heating probs and I gotta go to bed soon. So let me recap so I get this right, cause I dont wanna have the same problem. Like some, I havent got but maybe 1000 miles on it. 460 like yours C6 .30 over.
Basically it was a bad thermostat all along??
Then you used a Failsafe $7, Not high flow model, 180 degree.
You not using a restrictor.
You bolted the fan directly to the Rad, but now you got the shroud back on.
Thanks again
Patrick
One more question. That hose you have coming off the top outlet on the radiator is pretty slick. I had one of the bendable hoses that you can form to make my bends, and I had the inlet on the intake manifold coming out at a 90, call me silly, but I didnt know you could get one coming straight up, thats all Ive ever had. Stupid me. I like yours. I see how you did that but, what did you use?
Ok. I just edited this post so... I read MOST all your heating probs and I gotta go to bed soon. So let me recap so I get this right, cause I dont wanna have the same problem. Like some, I havent got but maybe 1000 miles on it. 460 like yours C6 .30 over.
Basically it was a bad thermostat all along??
Then you used a Failsafe $7, Not high flow model, 180 degree.
You not using a restrictor.
You bolted the fan directly to the Rad, but now you got the shroud back on.
Thanks again
Patrick
#22
07-15-2010, 10:41 PM
sdetweil
One more question. That hose you have coming off the top outlet on the radiator is pretty slick. I had one of the bendable hoses that you can form to make my bends, and I had the inlet on the intake manifold coming out at a 90, call me silly, but I didnt know you could get one coming straight up, thats all Ive ever had. Stupid me. I like yours. I see how you did that but, what did you use?
Ok. I just edited this post so... I read MOST all your heating probs and I gotta go to bed soon. So let me recap so I get this right, cause I dont wanna have the same problem. Like some, I havent got but maybe 1000 miles on it. 460 like yours C6 .30 over.
Basically it was a bad thermostat all along??
Then you used a Failsafe $7, Not high flow model, 180 degree.
You not using a restrictor.
You bolted the fan directly to the Rad, but now you got the shroud back on.
Thanks again
Patrick
One more question. That hose you have coming off the top outlet on the radiator is pretty slick. I had one of the bendable hoses that you can form to make my bends, and I had the inlet on the intake manifold coming out at a 90, call me silly, but I didnt know you could get one coming straight up, thats all Ive ever had. Stupid me. I like yours. I see how you did that but, what did you use?
Ok. I just edited this post so... I read MOST all your heating probs and I gotta go to bed soon. So let me recap so I get this right, cause I dont wanna have the same problem. Like some, I havent got but maybe 1000 miles on it. 460 like yours C6 .30 over.
Basically it was a bad thermostat all along??
Then you used a Failsafe $7, Not high flow model, 180 degree.
You not using a restrictor.
You bolted the fan directly to the Rad, but now you got the shroud back on.
Thanks again
Patrick
almost correct summary.. not a fail safe, a high flow..
yes I put the shroud back on, I like the look better.
I also had used the coolflex type hose, but I don't like the looks.. if it ain't perfect, its fugly..
I used a tstat cover from a 351Cleveland for the straight up, (same bolt pattern and tstat size), and the tube is 1.5in stainless exhaust pipe, polished. but that is the rad inlet. hot out of the engine, in the top of the rad, cool out the bottom of the rad, into the water pump.
Sam
#23
07-16-2010, 04:22 AM
People call me Sam,
almost correct summary.. not a fail safe, a high flow..
yes I put the shroud back on, I like the look better.
I also had used the coolflex type hose, but I don't like the looks.. if it ain't perfect, its fugly..
I used a tstat cover from a 351Cleveland for the straight up, (same bolt pattern and tstat size), and the tube is 1.5in stainless exhaust pipe, polished. but that is the rad inlet. hot out of the engine, in the top of the rad, cool out the bottom of the rad, into the water pump.
Sam
almost correct summary.. not a fail safe, a high flow..
yes I put the shroud back on, I like the look better.
I also had used the coolflex type hose, but I don't like the looks.. if it ain't perfect, its fugly..
I used a tstat cover from a 351Cleveland for the straight up, (same bolt pattern and tstat size), and the tube is 1.5in stainless exhaust pipe, polished. but that is the rad inlet. hot out of the engine, in the top of the rad, cool out the bottom of the rad, into the water pump.
Sam
#24
07-16-2010, 04:28 AM
#26
07-16-2010, 10:59 AM
#27
07-16-2010, 11:09 AM
I trolled around in autozone to find a stock radiator hose for the top that had the right bend in it to make the last part into the rad, then cut off the part I needed..
I had toyed with the idea of getting another pipe bent with that last bend it in, then I could use the end caps from the Coolflex kit to cover the clamps.. but can't find anyone nearby for mandrel bending this small pipe.
I am thinking of getting the heat shrink clamps to try and clean it up some more..
Sam
I had toyed with the idea of getting another pipe bent with that last bend it in, then I could use the end caps from the Coolflex kit to cover the clamps.. but can't find anyone nearby for mandrel bending this small pipe.
I am thinking of getting the heat shrink clamps to try and clean it up some more..
Sam
#28
07-16-2010, 02:02 PM
Yeah. I still like the straigt aspect instead of bending a hose half way around the moon. I called Oreillys and they said the inlet they have bends about 20 degrees but the might checked the Windsor. Will have to check tomorrow when I go up there. Got my SS pipe. That was a pain. No muffler shops had it. Had to call a pipe company. No muffler shops do a mandrel bend either. Called a couple. Don't have it. I will have to live with the crimp. Gotta go to Oriellys and look at their hoses too. What a pain. Ha. Thanks
#29
07-16-2010, 03:28 PM
Yeah. I still like the straigt aspect instead of bending a hose half way around the moon. I called Oreillys and they said the inlet they have bends about 20 degrees but the might checked the Windsor. Will have to check tomorrow when I go up there. Got my SS pipe. That was a pain. No muffler shops had it. Had to call a pipe company. No muffler shops do a mandrel bend either. Called a couple. Don't have it. I will have to live with the crimp. Gotta go to Oriellys and look at their hoses too. What a pain. Ha. Thanks
make sure that there is some hose flex on both sides, don't jam the pipe up against the thermostat housing.. engines move.. (don't ask me how I know)..
sam
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