I posted the images in my Album: Relays and return line

1) there are 3 relays under the hood, 1 on the fender and 2 under a black cover on the firewall, which one is the Fuel pump shut off and the tank selector relay?

has anyone replace the restrictive return line set up with something better?

I have an automatic tank selector on my truck where is it located, and can I change it to the manual one on the dash?

Check out the images in my gallery for the relays , and return line

Dr John

 

The restriction in the line is there for a reason.
The point of the hot fuel handling system it to lessen the chance of vapor lock.
Liquids under pressure don't boil as easily. (this is why radiators have a pressure cap)

OTOH, with a mechanical fuel pump like mine, most of the line is on the suction side and it can easily get 'airbound'. The pump doesn't work well with a gas instead of a liquid.

Sorry, I never had the Automatic selector and don't think I have the diagram for it, but I'll look.

 

I'm only familiar with the manual switch to the right of the HVAC controls, never heard of a relay or automatic-selector thing.

 

WOW I found it, thank you for the image, now I have gas running up and into the holley carb but it seems that float is stuck or something it not getting through the carb?

 

But the float bowls are full?

With the engine off look down the throat of the carb and work the throttle open and closed.
Each time you do this you should see two strong streams of fuel in the front (primary) throttle bores.

 

Is there a blocked filter at the carb?

Only other thing I can think of would be the float valve, works kinda like a toilet tank.

You'd have to take the bowl off to check....

 

He said the fuel was "up and into" the carb.
I assume the float bowls are full???

There is a filter in the fuel inlet of the 4180...

 

I am getting fuel into the front fuel bowl, but no wear else. no stream into the throttle bore?
No internal filter, I am using an external Fram filter.

I figured tomorrow would have to unbolt the carb again and this time actually take off the primary fuel bowl and see what is stuck, its a model#80457-3 holley carb, but I first have to go and get some new blue gaskets, I am sure the ones in there are cork and will break the second I open it up.

So close but so far!

Dr John

 

Oh, okay.
I thought you had the stock carb.
I have the similar 0-80457s, as you can tell from my sig.
Try giving the bowls a rap with a screwdriver handle or the like to jar the floats loose.
You don't really need to remove the carb to open the float bowls.
But if you are going to get parts I HIGHLY recommend you get the rubber seals for each end of the transfer tube above the throttle linkage.

 

just took off the float bowls and and they are fill with white corrosion, both sides there was fuel in them but very little and only at the bottom, everything was gummed up. almost looked like the old cork gasket was not removed all the way and shredded?

have them sitting in a can of carb cleaner now.

what a mess, no wonder no fuel was getting through, strange the out side and butterfly's all look brand new?

have to go to the auto parts store and gets some gaskets and rubber things for it, IF they have it in stock?

up date later


Dr John

 

Would probably be easier and cheaper to get the Genuine Holley 37-119 Renew kit for $25.95
Holley Performance Products Renew Kit Carburetor Rebuild Kit 37-119
At least then you wouldn't be buying parts piecemeal.

 

Yeah, I would just rebuild the entire thing; if there's that much crud there, it's gonna be everywhere else, too.

 

I found the 37-119 kit for 16.00 at autozone picking it up first thing tommorow.

I have the fuel bowls soaking in carb cleaner, but they are still need more scraping after wards, an I already scraped the hell out of them twice before soaking.

Question, I know that after they come out of the carb solution you have to water them down to stop the chemical process, but is there any way to stop the white film from forming on them afterwards?

Dr John

 

Fog it real good w/ WD40. Then your done. when you reassemble The new fuel will pick up the residual WD.

 

In addition to the above^^^

You can use a little Vaseline to lube seals/Oring's and help hold gaskets in place.
It will entirely dissolve on contact with fuel.