Turbocharged 4.9L 300
#46
01-07-2011, 09:35 PM
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Location: Del City,OK
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#47
01-07-2011, 11:25 PM
I was reading over and posting on several sites, i am curious why you went with a turbo over a supercharger? for the inline wouldnt a supercharger be more efficient due to the low rpm nature of the inline? and do you think it could be accomplished, i have not seen any REAL success stories.
#48
01-08-2011, 02:52 AM
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I was reading over and posting on several sites, i am curious why you went with a turbo over a supercharger? for the inline wouldnt a supercharger be more efficient due to the low rpm nature of the inline? and do you think it could be accomplished, i have not seen any REAL success stories.
#49
01-08-2011, 07:09 AM
#50
01-08-2011, 10:24 AM
Post Fiend
Turbos will generally out power a supercharger for several reasons. One of them being that the turbo will be driven using the spent exhaust energy which takes no power to run the turbo. The supercharger depending on size can take A LOT of power to spin since it gets driven off the crank of the engine.. The other reason would be turbos generally will spin faster than a supercharger and more CFM/boost is the result.
#51
01-08-2011, 10:33 AM
#52
01-08-2011, 10:57 AM
Post Fiend
You can run twins on the 300 since it has 2 manifolds. It's all preference. Either setup can make decent power, but usually you can get twins to spool quicker while making the same power than a bigger single. In the case of the OP, he is not running a very big single. He is actually running a pretty small single so I'm not sure that you'd be able to spool up faster than him. LOL
#53
01-08-2011, 10:58 AM
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The fact my buddy is running a carb it was alot easier for him to tune. As far as taking me off the line if no, even if i dont brake boost the truck builds boost so fast it wouldnt matter. I dont really know if there would be a benefit to go with twins i guess if you were wanting to run a large turbo that didnt start making boost till really late in the RPM range then maybe so there wouldnt be so much lag, or i guess two turbos to move more air so there isnt lag. i like where the power is at now. I like that fact that i can cruise around town and not build boost and not use as much gas. I have noticed with this set up which is true for any turbo the more heat and load that is on the turbo the fast it will spool. for example if im on the interstate cruising at 1500 rpm and the trubo has good heat in it if i give it alittle gas she will be making 10PSI by around 2200 it build it quick. i was surprised the first time i did that and how fast the boost guage moved and after that it didnt take long to hit the computer speed limiter of 130mph and i will admit i was a little scared going that fast in a truck this non aerodynamic. As far as electric fans yes, it has made a world of difference. the truck revs quicker and is just all around more responsive. i have dual 14" Pro Comp fans that i got from North Coast performance they specialize in Fords and i got them off ebay paid $90 for two fans relay kit and mounting kit, the fans are made from a very heavy duty plastic so there not cheap plus they are reversable and move over 4000cfm. when they kick on if i have the hood open u can really feel the air moving through the radiator.
#54
01-08-2011, 12:36 PM
Did you buy the fans used or new?
Also, what is roughly your mpg? I get round 12 if im lucky stock, also what gears are you running in rear?
Has the relay given you any problems? What temp do you have them kick on at?
If I was to mount turbo to the right of motor.. replace intake of course, what should I mount it to and how much support will it need. Or should I go left side, move battery, so its less piping?
Also, what is roughly your mpg? I get round 12 if im lucky stock, also what gears are you running in rear?
Has the relay given you any problems? What temp do you have them kick on at?
If I was to mount turbo to the right of motor.. replace intake of course, what should I mount it to and how much support will it need. Or should I go left side, move battery, so its less piping?
#55
01-08-2011, 01:15 PM
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Did you buy the fans used or new?
Also, what is roughly your mpg? I get round 12 if im lucky stock, also what gears are you running in rear?
Has the relay given you any problems? What temp do you have them kick on at?
If I was to mount turbo to the right of motor.. replace intake of course, what should I mount it to and how much support will it need. Or should I go left side, move battery, so its less piping?
Also, what is roughly your mpg? I get round 12 if im lucky stock, also what gears are you running in rear?
Has the relay given you any problems? What temp do you have them kick on at?
If I was to mount turbo to the right of motor.. replace intake of course, what should I mount it to and how much support will it need. Or should I go left side, move battery, so its less piping?
Im not sure on MPG yet i still have to do the final tune then i will do a milage run both taking it easy then my normal driving then highway. I'm running the stock 3.08 gears but i have 33" tires and i have plans to go to 3.73 or 4.10.
As far as where to mount the turbo some of the other guys that have done this have made a custom turbo exhaust manifold and just put the turbo under the intake manifold. it really comes down to how much work you want todo and dont worry about how much piping there is it doesnt make that much of a difference.
#56
01-08-2011, 01:48 PM
What was the fan kit you are using? I would like to look.into it. Is your rear an 8.8?
I have 8.8 with 3.08, I luv how it pulls but its a killer getting my tires to break.
Have you had any transmission work done?
How much would methanol cost compared to gas? U remember you saying one day you would like to do methanol injection, along with running methanol. Do you need different injectors? Or can I use norm pump, objectors, etc?
I have 8.8 with 3.08, I luv how it pulls but its a killer getting my tires to break.
Have you had any transmission work done?
How much would methanol cost compared to gas? U remember you saying one day you would like to do methanol injection, along with running methanol. Do you need different injectors? Or can I use norm pump, objectors, etc?
#57
01-08-2011, 01:58 PM
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PROCOMP DUAL 14" Part# 2053S. Yes it is an 8.8 rear. The only thing is done to the transmission is a shift kit. i rebuilt it back in 01 and didnt have any plans for upgrading the motor. once i start making more power im going to upgrade the internals of the trans.
Im just doing a methanol injection kit i know the owner of devils own and were going to sit down and build a custom one for my truck im looking around $400 for the kit. but i am thinking of doing two tunes if i can. one will be on 91 for normal driving then one on E85 for when im at the track. with having two tanks it will be nice but i dont know if it can be done or not ill talk to the tunner when i drop it off again.
Im just doing a methanol injection kit i know the owner of devils own and were going to sit down and build a custom one for my truck im looking around $400 for the kit. but i am thinking of doing two tunes if i can. one will be on 91 for normal driving then one on E85 for when im at the track. with having two tanks it will be nice but i dont know if it can be done or not ill talk to the tunner when i drop it off again.
#59
01-08-2011, 02:12 PM
I ran across a guy on the jaguarforums involved in a 300 turbo build. His comments are below:
I am currently involved in building a 4x4 with a turbo'ed Ford 300 straight 6 with a blow-thru 4 barrel carb on a Clifford Research intake and long tube header with a T25 flange welded on for the Garrett turbo. I am porting the head, then tuning the motor and fuel system once it goes back togethe
The Ford 4.9 project is a brainstorming of myself and another gearhead here in NC. I had the idea while stationed in N. Mexico and met up with a gearhead here when I retired and he had the same idea as i did. It's his truck and motor, but he was unsure of what was needed to turbo the motor, that is where I come in. I have been building, tuning and racing turbo cars for some time now along with normally aspirated detroit iron.
Anyway, the motor is stock except for the .030 over 9:1 pistons and Delta Cams 10% over regrind cam. The head has been shaved .030 and has machined small block Chevy valves that are used for small base circle cams (longer stem length) they are 1.90int/1.60exh stuffed into the head that was ported by me, with stock valve train. The motor will rarely see anything over 5000rpm's, so the stock stuff is good to go with the 10% over regrind cam. It is all new components, but stock specs other than cam and valves. SAVED A TON over the Comp Cams valve train components you have to buy to warranty their cams.
The header and intake is a Clifford Research design. These guys know their American sixes. Great stuff, great quality and great prices IMHO.
The intake was gasket matched to the head. I didn't hog the head or intake out too much to keep the off boost low end velocity up. The exhaust was opened up bit more to help the motor breath into the long tube header. the turbo flange was welded on the end so the turbo is essentially underneath the truck with a big 3" exhaust out the back . It is plumbed into a front mount intercooler from a Saab then to the carb hat. We are running a Carter 600 carb with metal floats, leaner main jets and fatter secondaries. the carb is great for low boost turbo setups due to its two piece design. It doesn't require a carb box or o-ring shafts like the Holley carbs need. We are running an electric fuel pump and boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. With the boost dialed in between 3-5 psi on the roughly 9.2:1 motor, it should yield some excellent hp/torque numbers. As we break the motor in and check air/fuel ratios on the wideband, the boost will gradually increase to 7psi, maybe even 9psi if the carb holds up without a box.
Thought you guys might like another example.
The Ford 4.9 project is a brainstorming of myself and another gearhead here in NC. I had the idea while stationed in N. Mexico and met up with a gearhead here when I retired and he had the same idea as i did. It's his truck and motor, but he was unsure of what was needed to turbo the motor, that is where I come in. I have been building, tuning and racing turbo cars for some time now along with normally aspirated detroit iron.
Anyway, the motor is stock except for the .030 over 9:1 pistons and Delta Cams 10% over regrind cam. The head has been shaved .030 and has machined small block Chevy valves that are used for small base circle cams (longer stem length) they are 1.90int/1.60exh stuffed into the head that was ported by me, with stock valve train. The motor will rarely see anything over 5000rpm's, so the stock stuff is good to go with the 10% over regrind cam. It is all new components, but stock specs other than cam and valves. SAVED A TON over the Comp Cams valve train components you have to buy to warranty their cams.
The header and intake is a Clifford Research design. These guys know their American sixes. Great stuff, great quality and great prices IMHO.
The intake was gasket matched to the head. I didn't hog the head or intake out too much to keep the off boost low end velocity up. The exhaust was opened up bit more to help the motor breath into the long tube header. the turbo flange was welded on the end so the turbo is essentially underneath the truck with a big 3" exhaust out the back . It is plumbed into a front mount intercooler from a Saab then to the carb hat. We are running a Carter 600 carb with metal floats, leaner main jets and fatter secondaries. the carb is great for low boost turbo setups due to its two piece design. It doesn't require a carb box or o-ring shafts like the Holley carbs need. We are running an electric fuel pump and boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. With the boost dialed in between 3-5 psi on the roughly 9.2:1 motor, it should yield some excellent hp/torque numbers. As we break the motor in and check air/fuel ratios on the wideband, the boost will gradually increase to 7psi, maybe even 9psi if the carb holds up without a box.
#60
01-08-2011, 02:14 PM
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well i could do more of a race gas tune but 85 is alittle easier to get here in OK but not at easy as 91. plus 91 is cheaper. the reason i want to use 85 for racing is because of its resistance to detonation i can run higher boost. check out Alcohol Injection Kits : Water Injection Systems : Water Methanol Injection : DevilsOwn Injection it will explan how meth injection works and its uses.