IDI diesel for me??
#17
06-26-2010, 05:47 AM
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a little more clearification and request for more advice.
i really want this truck to NOT have an ECU or a turbo, just simple mechanical.
i have been offered a 1978 ford 250 truck in pretty good shape that needs a motor and transmission.
So will an IDI diesel fit into this truck and 1987 6.9 or a 7.3
AND does anybody know anyone who does a good job rebuilding them.
I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money on this project BUT money is an object, that i have to work hard to make.
i really want this truck to NOT have an ECU or a turbo, just simple mechanical.
i have been offered a 1978 ford 250 truck in pretty good shape that needs a motor and transmission.
So will an IDI diesel fit into this truck and 1987 6.9 or a 7.3
AND does anybody know anyone who does a good job rebuilding them.
I'm willing to spend a decent amount of money on this project BUT money is an object, that i have to work hard to make.
#18
06-26-2010, 10:27 AM
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jr4jc,
all IDI trucks are basically emissions and computer free all the way up though '94 (excluding 94.5 powerstrokes)
the only computer control would be the trucks with the E40D (electronic 4 speed Over Drive) auto trans.thats not a bad thing either contrary to popular belief,and even that is just for the trans,not the idi.
so likely cheaper to find a good running idi truck to start with when on a tight budget.
all IDI trucks are basically emissions and computer free all the way up though '94 (excluding 94.5 powerstrokes)
the only computer control would be the trucks with the E40D (electronic 4 speed Over Drive) auto trans.thats not a bad thing either contrary to popular belief,and even that is just for the trans,not the idi.
so likely cheaper to find a good running idi truck to start with when on a tight budget.
#19
06-26-2010, 02:07 PM
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#21
07-01-2010, 01:45 PM
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FOUND MY TRUCK
well i found my truck and bought it, got it checked out the next day by a diesel mechanic and other than slow oil leaks under the valve covers and a small leak of fuel under the injector pump the rest is pretty sound. 
NOW i will flush the radiator and change the oil air fliter and fule filters what else for MY new truck!!!?!?
and thanks to josh for helping me in determining what was an issue and what wasn't
NOW i will flush the radiator and change the oil air fliter and fule filters what else for MY new truck!!!?!?
and thanks to josh for helping me in determining what was an issue and what wasn't
#26
07-01-2010, 07:56 PM
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#27
07-02-2010, 12:46 AM
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ok will captin chairs 4 of them fit in it??
will 2 of them up front and leave the bench in the back??
anybody got pics of a 1990 with captain chairs??
did they come as an option in 1990???
also i may be in the market for a slide in camper, any advice on which ones and size etc... does and don'ts... if i get one i want a slide in that is flush with the rear of the truck not hanging over, thanks for any and all advice in advance.
will 2 of them up front and leave the bench in the back??
anybody got pics of a 1990 with captain chairs??
did they come as an option in 1990???
also i may be in the market for a slide in camper, any advice on which ones and size etc... does and don'ts... if i get one i want a slide in that is flush with the rear of the truck not hanging over, thanks for any and all advice in advance.
#28
07-02-2010, 09:10 AM
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As to the captains chairs, as to what will fit all depends on what you have for fabbing and modification skills. Not sure what was available as factory options, hopefully someone will chime in and give some more info there.
Campers, without overhang. I'm assuming you are thinking of that for trailer towing purposes? Several guys on here have truck campers, there's all kinds of options out there. With the length in mind, you can use an 8', or an 8'6" camper. (8'6" you take the tailgate off, and it is just about even with the back bumper, maximizes camper size without overhang.)
Best bang for your buck is to have some money in hand ready for it, then start watching the classifieds. A friend is also a big believer in posting wanted ads, and waiting a while and lining up the options that come available. If you're not in a hurry, often prices are lower in the fall when people don't want to deal with storage issues for winter and the like.
Campers, without overhang. I'm assuming you are thinking of that for trailer towing purposes? Several guys on here have truck campers, there's all kinds of options out there. With the length in mind, you can use an 8', or an 8'6" camper. (8'6" you take the tailgate off, and it is just about even with the back bumper, maximizes camper size without overhang.)
Best bang for your buck is to have some money in hand ready for it, then start watching the classifieds. A friend is also a big believer in posting wanted ads, and waiting a while and lining up the options that come available. If you're not in a hurry, often prices are lower in the fall when people don't want to deal with storage issues for winter and the like.
#29
07-02-2010, 02:35 PM
The belief is popular for a reason!
A minor electrical glitch like an "Iffy" F.I.P.L. can fry the converter clutch, or in a worse case scenario, a bad power relay can fry your $2500 transmission
Ford should have just added a shorter (better integrated) OD unit similar to the Gear Vendor to the back of the C6 and called it a day!
I'm still looking to swap out my E4OD for a C6....someday.
#30
07-02-2010, 03:52 PM
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Also the 6.9 rockers were changed partway through, I believe the '87's have the same rockers as the 7.3.
As to the 'lift pump' problem, it's not a problem with the pump at all, it's a problem with the fuel lines and return lines, if they are fixed properly the air can't get in and allow the fuel to drain back into the tank. Often an electric pump simply masks other problems. I have 3 of these trucks and engines here running, and they are all manual lift pumps, without an issue. One truck needs the return lines done again, they were last done about 6 years ago. About an hour's work, and $25-35 worth of o-rings, fuel lines etc, and it'll be good to go again. I've been dragging my feet on doing them, because that truck really needs a set of injectors and a pump, it's pushing 200K miles on the originals.
As to the 'lift pump' problem, it's not a problem with the pump at all, it's a problem with the fuel lines and return lines, if they are fixed properly the air can't get in and allow the fuel to drain back into the tank. Often an electric pump simply masks other problems. I have 3 of these trucks and engines here running, and they are all manual lift pumps, without an issue. One truck needs the return lines done again, they were last done about 6 years ago. About an hour's work, and $25-35 worth of o-rings, fuel lines etc, and it'll be good to go again. I've been dragging my feet on doing them, because that truck really needs a set of injectors and a pump, it's pushing 200K miles on the originals.
just because they have alot of miles on them doesn't mean that it warrants changing them just because they have 200K. how do you drive the truck do you use any additives do you let it completely warm up before taking off do you plug it in. those kinds of things must be takin into account. once a year my tank gets a quart of ATF to clean the injectors out and once a month, half a bottle of power service cetane boost. its the little things like spending 20 or so bucks a month on just stuff like that to keep things in good running order.
ad as far as towing in concerned with campers mine has hauled around a 12 foot camper all day long with no problems. it got kind of warm after going up a 6% grade for a mile and a half but it gave me a good reason to stop, have a smoke let the dog take a **** and drink a dew. 30 mins later i was on the road again. you'll deffanitely know that its back there but the best part about the 7.3's and the 6.9's was that they have the mechanical simplicity of a hammer. as best stated by diesel power
