2 inch front leveling kit - before and after
#47
#48
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: North of Salt Lake City
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It's really a matter of preference. I was thinking that when I put almost anything in the back of the bed, I didn't want it to sag lower than the front. The half inch is about right for me because I almost always carry something (ATV, tools, yard stuff, etc) and the back end does sink an inch or so. It's probably splitting hairs but the 2 inches up front is a big change by itself. If I was going to put on the 2.5 inch leveler up front, I'd also add a one inch block in the back so as to provide a little settle-down room for the back when I'm carrying some weight. In my book, there's nothing worse aesthetically than a truck with a sagging rear end.
#49
#50
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Auto Spring Corp out of Boise, ID. Here's a link to the kit I installed. If you end up getting one, don't forget to get an alignment for caster correction. A 2" lift on the front changes the caster angle to effectively zero and results in a poor driving experience.
2005-2011 FORD F-250/350/450 2 Leveling kit w/shock extensions - $112.95 : Auto Spring Corp, Is your tail draggin' or your nose droopin'? Let us give you a lift!
2005-2011 FORD F-250/350/450 2 Leveling kit w/shock extensions - $112.95 : Auto Spring Corp, Is your tail draggin' or your nose droopin'? Let us give you a lift!
#52
Hey Guys,
This is has been a great thread. It started out just being a cosmetic comparison to see the visible effects of a leveling kit but has evolved into a really useful conversation on the consequences of leveling. I was so intrigued by Ranger's explanation above that I dropped what I was doing and took the truck to a very good alignment shop. Here's what I've learned:
1 - Pretty much everything discussed in this thread is true. My alignment shop quickly confirmed that my caster was lost and the axle was shifted to the driver's side by 1/2 inch. I've got to say, that was a huge revelation to me on how all the steering and suspension parts work together. Anything you do to one, will affect the others in some way. In my case, the caster was essentially zero which resulted in the "looseness" of my steering wheel or a feeling of driving on top of a ball (if that makes any sense). I hadn't realized that my truck's steering wheel was not returning fully to center on its own after a turn but sure enough, it wasn't.
2. Correcting the caster by one and a quarter degree makes a huge difference. The steering wheel now behaves normally and the freeway wander is absolutely gone. I'll be dog-gone.
3. A small amount of horizontal shift of the axle can be corrected by the alignment shop without making changes to the tracking bar. They said the truck will drive like factory now and I don't HAVE to adjust the bar if I don't want to. They said once they correct the steering wheel position, it would be difficult to tell by looking that anything was different from factory. (I'm thinking I will get an adjustable trac bar just because I know now and that kind of stuff bugs me).
4. The factory suspension is highly engineered and tuned for precise and reliable performance. When Joe Average (like me) goes and messes with it, the results may look good but top performance will have been lost. The tragedy of it all is that a person may not even know they screwed things up and, like Ranger said, live with a poorly performing vehicle for years.
So it started with a desire to improve the looks and performance of the truck by a adding leveling kit and larger tires. That necessitates a quality alignment and optionally requires a replacement tracking bar (trac bar, pan bar, pan-hard bar, all the same). Once a person does all that, he can feel good that everything was done properly. But if you think that for $112.50 plus shipping you can level your truck and be done with it, that is a mistake.
Dang, this is a great forum!
This is has been a great thread. It started out just being a cosmetic comparison to see the visible effects of a leveling kit but has evolved into a really useful conversation on the consequences of leveling. I was so intrigued by Ranger's explanation above that I dropped what I was doing and took the truck to a very good alignment shop. Here's what I've learned:
1 - Pretty much everything discussed in this thread is true. My alignment shop quickly confirmed that my caster was lost and the axle was shifted to the driver's side by 1/2 inch. I've got to say, that was a huge revelation to me on how all the steering and suspension parts work together. Anything you do to one, will affect the others in some way. In my case, the caster was essentially zero which resulted in the "looseness" of my steering wheel or a feeling of driving on top of a ball (if that makes any sense). I hadn't realized that my truck's steering wheel was not returning fully to center on its own after a turn but sure enough, it wasn't.
2. Correcting the caster by one and a quarter degree makes a huge difference. The steering wheel now behaves normally and the freeway wander is absolutely gone. I'll be dog-gone.
3. A small amount of horizontal shift of the axle can be corrected by the alignment shop without making changes to the tracking bar. They said the truck will drive like factory now and I don't HAVE to adjust the bar if I don't want to. They said once they correct the steering wheel position, it would be difficult to tell by looking that anything was different from factory. (I'm thinking I will get an adjustable trac bar just because I know now and that kind of stuff bugs me).
4. The factory suspension is highly engineered and tuned for precise and reliable performance. When Joe Average (like me) goes and messes with it, the results may look good but top performance will have been lost. The tragedy of it all is that a person may not even know they screwed things up and, like Ranger said, live with a poorly performing vehicle for years.
So it started with a desire to improve the looks and performance of the truck by a adding leveling kit and larger tires. That necessitates a quality alignment and optionally requires a replacement tracking bar (trac bar, pan bar, pan-hard bar, all the same). Once a person does all that, he can feel good that everything was done properly. But if you think that for $112.50 plus shipping you can level your truck and be done with it, that is a mistake.
Dang, this is a great forum!
Epic, since picking up my truck, I've noticed that the truck seems to feel like it's "floating" at freeway speeds. I had LHM install the leveling kit before I picked up the truck. I had the tires put on immediately after leaving the dealer. Anyway, I remembered reading this thread so went back to find it. I was thinking of taking the truck back to LHM, but for time and convenience I thought I'd take it to the same alignment shop you went to as they should remember and be a quick fix. Can you tell me the alignment shop and the approximate cost? If not appropriate here, please PM me if you don't mind.
Thanks again - another extremely useful thread!
#53
Has anyone bought the readylift 2.5 inch leveling kit. It has a track bar relocate bracket wih looks like t would help. here is a link to the product in question.
ReadyLift 2011 Ford F350 Super Duty 2.5" Leveling Kit
ReadyLift 2011 Ford F350 Super Duty 2.5" Leveling Kit
#54
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: North of Salt Lake City
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Epic, since picking up my truck, I've noticed that the truck seems to feel like it's "floating" at freeway speeds. I had LHM install the leveling kit before I picked up the truck. I had the tires put on immediately after leaving the dealer. Anyway, I remembered reading this thread so went back to find it. I was thinking of taking the truck back to LHM, but for time and convenience I thought I'd take it to the same alignment shop you went to as they should remember and be a quick fix. Can you tell me the alignment shop and the approximate cost? If not appropriate here, please PM me if you don't mind.
Thanks again - another extremely useful thread!
Thanks again - another extremely useful thread!
#58
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: North of Salt Lake City
Posts: 5,159
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I wondered the same thing and know that can be a problem. I've always had AT's and the winter traction has been great. The Les Schwab guys tell me they can sipe (sp?) the inner 2/3rds of the tread pattern and then the MT's handle the snow and ice really well. They say you just don't want to sipe the outsides of the treads because the tire will wear quickly. Ask me again in about 6 months and I'll tell you how it works out.