Rear fuel tank broken? air in lines?
#1
06-12-2010, 12:35 PM
Rear fuel tank broken? air in lines?
okay guys a few days ago I routed the liner to the rear fuel tank so I could actually fill it up, put about 4 gallons in just to test it, started the truck, was running good, 1 minute later it started bucking real bad like it was sucking air, surgeing, shaking, really bad rough idle, what can I check for this? is it possible that there was some goop in the rear tank and when I added the diesel it mixed together and now its just a bad batch of fuel? the tank was completely bone dry but who knows? I'm thinking maybe one of the fuel lines is rusted or something?
#2
06-12-2010, 12:42 PM
What's actually very possible is that your fuel pickup "shower head" in the tank has disintegrated and fallen off the steel line, which results in an inability to use the bottom 1/4 of the tank. The easy fix is to drop the tank and use rubber hose to replace the "shower head", but for the time being just add a few more gallons and see if the truck runs good, I bet it will be just fine. Also it's suggested that you don't go under 1/2 a tank while that issue is present, this will ensure that no matter what there is always enough fuel in the tank to prevent air from getting sucked in.
#4
06-12-2010, 04:12 PM
#5
06-12-2010, 04:18 PM
#6
06-12-2010, 04:23 PM
#7
06-12-2010, 04:32 PM
Trending Topics
#8
06-12-2010, 04:40 PM
#9
06-13-2010, 02:06 AM
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
the truck ran for a little bit when you switched tanks,because it was running off fuel that was in the lines/filter/ip.
the engine would have stalled completely if you didn't switch it back in time.
before you drop the tank (which is a pain really.and may require new straps) you should flip the switch,and listen for a little motor zip noise.that will be the FSV down on the frame rail.
if the tanks not been used,it could be due to a faulty FSV.(a costly little OEM bugger,but a hassle to many to wire in a much more economical universal one.-i chose the latter.)
you should test for voltage at the FSV.
you should also bring the tank up half way with fuel too like stated.
good FSV testing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-gauges.html
careful with Festus's advice in post #3.great info and i agree of course.but i just wanted to add,make sure you do that before the FSV.unhook there to blow in the line,not up by the engine.
the reason is,the FSV can only handle so much pressure (a few psi) you could blow it if your not careful.
the engine would have stalled completely if you didn't switch it back in time.
before you drop the tank (which is a pain really.and may require new straps) you should flip the switch,and listen for a little motor zip noise.that will be the FSV down on the frame rail.
if the tanks not been used,it could be due to a faulty FSV.(a costly little OEM bugger,but a hassle to many to wire in a much more economical universal one.-i chose the latter.)
you should test for voltage at the FSV.
you should also bring the tank up half way with fuel too like stated.
good FSV testing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-gauges.html
careful with Festus's advice in post #3.great info and i agree of course.but i just wanted to add,make sure you do that before the FSV.unhook there to blow in the line,not up by the engine.
the reason is,the FSV can only handle so much pressure (a few psi) you could blow it if your not careful.
#10
06-13-2010, 02:18 AM
the truck ran for a little bit when you switched tanks,because it was running off fuel that was in the lines/filter/ip.
the engine would have stalled completely if you didn't switch it back in time.
before you drop the tank (which is a pain really.and may require new straps) you should flip the switch,and listen for a little motor zip noise.that will be the FSV down on the frame rail.
if the tanks not been used,it could be due to a faulty FSV.(a costly little OEM bugger,but a hassle to many to wire in a much more economical universal one.-i chose the latter.)
you should test for voltage at the FSV.
you should also bring the tank up half way with fuel too like stated.
good FSV testing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-gauges.html
careful with Festus's advice in post #3.great info and i agree of course.but i just wanted to add,make sure you do that before the FSV.unhook there to blow in the line,not up by the engine.
the reason is,the FSV can only handle so much pressure (a few psi) you could blow it if your not careful.
the engine would have stalled completely if you didn't switch it back in time.
before you drop the tank (which is a pain really.and may require new straps) you should flip the switch,and listen for a little motor zip noise.that will be the FSV down on the frame rail.
if the tanks not been used,it could be due to a faulty FSV.(a costly little OEM bugger,but a hassle to many to wire in a much more economical universal one.-i chose the latter.)
you should test for voltage at the FSV.
you should also bring the tank up half way with fuel too like stated.
good FSV testing thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...el-gauges.html
careful with Festus's advice in post #3.great info and i agree of course.but i just wanted to add,make sure you do that before the FSV.unhook there to blow in the line,not up by the engine.
the reason is,the FSV can only handle so much pressure (a few psi) you could blow it if your not careful.
#12
06-14-2010, 12:18 AM