So, finally got around to going through mine the other week. They are different, a lot different..
On mine, the end result is the rotating arm in the slave (rear) mount was the culprit - had to take it apart and clean, relube and reassemble
Went throught the front as well. Harder to disassemble, but what helps is taking pix as you go through it. I ended up putting the sensors in backwards the first time, and it did not operate properly. Switched them, and it worked fine then.
At the end of the day - mine are rusting out and will only last a couple years more.
03 Navigator, 65 Mustang, 67 Cutlass Supreme, 04 BMW 745li, 03 BMW 330i, 07 Acura TL, 00 Honda Accord EX, 02 Ford Exploder, 01 Audi TT 225 Hp Coupe, 86 Wellcraft Nova XL, Cub Cadet 2182 Super Lawn Tractor, 00 BMW K1200LT, 81 Kawasaki KZ750, Honda 450EX Quad, etc...
I have an 07 Explorer Eddie Bauer. When I removed all 6 mounting bolts, there's a trim piece that runs the length of the board still attached to the car body and to the running board. How do I remove that trim piece?
my running boards on my 2007 Ford Explorer stopped working. i have sprayed lubricant on the hinges and it would work when they want to. Dealership told me hinges are corrosion. any suggestions on fixing hinges?
Wow I hate to hear this crap. The passanger side on the wifes 03 NAV has fits every once in awhile, all I have done so far is spray carb cleaner in the latch assembly and it seems to fix it for awhile.
Does anyone know what I would need to replace in the latch assembly to fix the problem all together or is it the whole latch assembly? I have not taken it apart yet.
I have a 2010 Expy 4x4 EL Limited with power running boards and the passenger side one started squealing loudly and doesn't want to retract without my assistance...is this something that can be fixed by cleaning as you have mentioned in this thread and is the motor even the same as in the photos so generously provided? I am very frusterated as Ford denied a warranty claim on it at the recommendation of the dealer(1st and last time I have ever had this vehicle to this dealer & only did because they are a 1/4 mile away-MISTAKE). I contacted customer service and they said that dealer said it was damaged, took photos and consequently not covered...I looked carefully and cannot see what they are talking about and took to my normal dealer who spent 1.5 hours going over it on a lift and techs nor service manager can see why or how anyone could suspect damage and they are going to attempt to resubmit the claim with photos and fight Ford for it. Its a $1695 price tag on the replacement motor by the way for anyone who would like to know. I cannot imagine on a vehicle less than 2 years old with 29,000 miles that this would be an issue on a $60K vehicle. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by JA442; 05-10-2012 at 09:05 PM.
Reason: extra word
I have fixed my deployable power running board. Here is how
Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.
Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.
Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.
Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.
Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.
Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.
Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.
Front two nuts and one bolt
Rear two nuts and one bolt
lay something soft down so no scratches
plastic sheild screws
motor cover screws
pull off motor cover
spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible
remove wedge bolt
pop out wedge from back side
this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge
note mark on wedge for reintallation
spray lubricant on all moving parts
step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely
spray lubricant in transmission
spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover
spray electricial cleaner on shaft
inspect that the brushes are still good
apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.
work bearing so it moves freely
insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth
motor cover screwed in place
insert wegde in place
flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down
install plastic sheild screws
bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck
board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks
You did a great job showing how to fix the problem, I followed the steps with no problems...except one (and it's a biggie). After putting it all back together the board works opposite from how it's supposed to: when the door is open, the board goes up...close the door and it goes down. I tried disassembling it, rotating the motor manually to the opposite position, reassembling etc...but it does the exact same thing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I am pretty sure mine is not in the motor, because when mine gets stuck in the out position after I start driving it goes in, and it also reads door ajar on the info center. I am sure mine is the switch or something in the latch. Does anyone know what is needed to fix that. It does not act up all the time, and seems to fix it self sometimes. Other times not so fast though.
I was told by the dealer that there is a way to turn off the retractable running boards on a 2008 mercury mountaineer. Is this true? I don't want them to deploy, I just want them to stay out all of the time. Is there a way to deactivate them? Is is difficult or expensive to replace them?
Please help. I just have a problem with them going in and out.
On your screen you can have the running boards shut off or deploying when door opens. The running boards are set up never to be deployed while car is moving.
I see this thread is not recent, but I am now working on this same running board repair as shown in the great photos in this thread. Everything went smoothly until the step for removing the wedge. I am unable to remove the aluminum wedge. photo shows to pop wedge from the back side, but what does that mean? I don't see any place to get leverage to do that from the back. I tried popping it out from the top(wedge bolt opening), but that did not work. The wedge I am trying to get out seems to be very tight against the motor shaft.
If anyone has had success with removing this wedge, I would be interested in learning more about how you did it .
just a follow up. I was able to get that aluminum wedge out. what i found was that the wedge was not centered and it was caught under the bracket. I ended up taking the electric motor apart, so I could tap the motor shaft and center the wedge. it fell out by itself after that. my motor was shot, so it didn't mind taking it apart, since I am installing a new motor.
I have a similar problem with the driver side retractable running board on my 2010 Expedition. The symptom was that the running board would deploy, but not retract. It would continue to try to retract (e.g. you could hear the motor turning, but nothing would move). If you "help" push it in, it would eventually retract. After removal and inspection of the electric motor per the posts in this thread, everything looked fine. It felt like a gear problem. I removed the tamper proof screws on the end of the gear housing to remove the helical gear that mates to the worm drive gear. Upon inspection, the gear was furrowed from the worm gear, thus causing the board retraction to fail. I'm looking into possible remedies short of replacing the entire motor. I checked around to a few machine shops to see about having a gear machined, but it's somewhat cost prohibitive at the 1 gear quantity. Anybody have any luck locating anything via a wrecking yard, or otherwise? Ideas?
End of Motor Showing Gear Housing:
Helical Gear with Drive Shaft:
Helical Gear Up Close w/Defect:
Last edited by acrimoniousman; 10-29-2013 at 12:26 AM.
Reason: Fixing photo inserts
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