I did mine without pulling the engine. I shoulda pulled the engine.

 

For the exhaust I'm assuming they mean just the 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold it to the manifold. I know on my 5.8 my manifold doesn't get anywhere near my oil pan for the most part, just the pipes that "Y" right under the pan.

I don't think you'll have to remove your transfer case. It may be possible to just unbolt your tranny mounts from the crossmember when you put a jack up under it. I don't see why you'd actually have to remove the crossmember completely. It's not like your tranny has anymore than 2 bolts holding it onto it anyways.... Or does it add for more room when removing the pan?

 

it's do-able without pulling the engine but it is a major peice. One thing I havn't seen mentioned was the removal of the upper intake. I have the same truck and motor and just did this job a few months ago. Took all night long. I had the motor jammed up against the firewall and couldn't get the pan off after hours of trying. Couldn't get it to clear the counterweights of the crank. Removed the upper intake and was able to lift the motor another 2 inches or so. I have longtube headers and did have to remove the driverside because it came into contact with the motor mounts when lifting. Actually both side came in contact but with one removed you can slide the motor over to clear the other. Also didn't have to loosen or remove any trans or t-case mounts.

 

I broke down and read the manual today and have a couple questions....several actually.

1. The book says to remove the upper intake plenum. What parts do I need to reinstall? Just a gasket or do I need new hardware too.

2. The book says to jack using a wood block under the oil pan. Sounds risky. Is it safe to do this or should I put my A-frame together and lift the motor.

3. 140k or so on the motor. Replace the oil pump? Seems like a no-brainer but wanted opinions anyway.

4. Should I replace the motor mounts, hardware, or anything? Is there anything else I should do since I am going to this amount of effort anyway?

Thanks for all the help.

 

My brother and I tried to replace the pan on our 89 f250 with it still in the truck. the old one came out fine, mostly because it was cracked so we could really twist it. But we could not get the new one in with it in the truck. So we pulled the motor and did a bunch of other things while it was out. This was about 2 months ago and we still haven't gotten it going. Working on it whenever we get a chance. It's coming along. What ever you choose good luck, its messy.

 

1. Just the gasket.

2. I used my floor jack and a block of wood under the crank pully, then blocked it up between the motor mounts and frame. I also put a jackstand under the trans. An A frame would be perfect for this if you feel safer with it. I contemplated using my cherry picker, but obviously the legs would have been in the way when trying to get everything out.

3. Yep, oil pump and pickup screen is a great idea.

4. I didn't do mounts because they looked fine. Not a bad idea to check them though, and the trans mount.

 

1.) dido on just the gasket

2.) A-frame would work great! I didn't have mine so had to use the cherry picker on my buddies.

3.) Replace the oil pump, screen and the oil pump drive shaft! The shafts tended to break in the older engines so I just spent the extra $5-$7. Just make sure to set the little depth ring on the shaft to the same spot as the old one (you'll know what I mean when you see it). If you don't you could pull your distributor later and hear a clunk into your pan... That would be the pump shaft if you don't set the depth ring... It's super easy!

4.)Check all your hardware and mounts. If there is any cracking or breaking up in the rubber just replace them! Urethane motor mounts are way better and last a ton longer just so you know... Also you might want to check your valve covers. If they are leaking and you have the plenum off, you might as well spend the extra $20 to replace them with good felpros! AND if you are so inclined you might want to check into cleaning out your injectors for yourself. There are small rebuild kits below. Helps a ton on smooth acceleration, mpgs, and keeping the engine idling nice... If you want more information just message back and I can give you more info.

RJM Injection Tech Fuel Injection Parts compatible with 89-93 Mustang 5.0L Mass Air EFI engines

 

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. Tried to throw each of you a bone but must have repped you already.

I am thinking about setting up the A-frame to do this job. Only problem is I will be doing this in my driveway since my back yard is all grass and I wonder how long it would be up before the gestapo get called. I have a couple neighbors who don't appreciate me working on vehicles in my driveway. On second thought, annoying the neighbors might be reason enough to set up the frame....

I have a pretty nice A-frame set-up that my father built 30 years ago when we were doing motor swaps and rebuilds on a regular basis. He used staging pipe and some thick-wall stainless steel boiler pipe.

Now, my questions today are regarding getting parts for this beast. My truck is a '97 but when I look up parts for 1997 trucks I usually get parts for 5.4 and 4.6 liter vehicles (new body style). Are the 351's in the 1997 trucks the exact same as in the 1996 trucks? I will be needing the oil pan, pump, screen, oil pump drive shaft and intake gasket. I prefer buying Ford parts online since the local dealers won't budge on price.

Thanks again for all the help. And nstueve, I'd appreciate more info on the injector rebuild.

 

you do have to unbolt the trani from the engine but no you dont have to pull the engine out. sad part is you have to do just about everything you would do to completely take it out. when i did my engine re-build i used oil pan replacement instructions to pull the engine.

 

Break out the a-frame, make sure there's a ton of parts strewn across the driveway, crank up some Skynyrd, and have a cooler of beer on hand. That'll give the neighbors a show.

As for parts, yes, 96 will be the same as far as the parts you're concerned with.

Sounds like a great a-frame, take some pics when you get everything set up!

 

I'd break out the dirty torn wife beater and the saggy pants so you can be well dressed for the show as well.

The injector cleaning is really easy actually... You just pull the fuel rails (2-3 bolts per rail), and then pull out the fuel injectors (just pull on them the only thing holding them in is the rubber gasket and road crud thats built up.

Once off you get a good injector cleaner... not the $3 Oreilly's brand. Soak the injectors over night to loosen all the varnish inside the injectors (I used a cool whip container). Use full strength injector cleaner for the soak. Then get a injector wire from the junk yard or parts truck. Plug each one in to your battery on the truck (this is so the injector opens). then blow compressed air backwards through the injector. This will blow out the varnish build-up that you loosened last night with the injector cleaner. Then rebuild with the RJM $20 EV1 rebuild kit. OH and you should pull the little "basket" out the top before blowing them out. I used a #10 (i think it was a #10...) sheet metal or wood screw to grab it from the inside and pull it out pliars. Be careful not to damage the fuel injectors plastic body. IF you are out of service for a while you can also repeat the injector cleaner bath for a couple more nights and blow them out each day to get them cleaner if you want... You'd be surprised what you see come out after 140K.

If you need more info just let me know.

 

Oh Wait you might have the EV6 injectors... My trucks are EV1's but they are also 88's... So look at your injectors to see what type you have before ordering from the RJM link i previously posted.

I would start with the injector cleaning before taking off the pan... That way you can get them in to soak while you are working on your oil pan problem. Injectors are expensive but the yards around me are cheap especially for injectors... I got a spare set for $6 and did the clean and rebuild on them so they were ready when I had my 4.9L apart. Did this just because I couldn't have the truck down for long. I also know a couple guys that just throw them in their tool box and don't pay for them...

So which tranny do you have??? Just thinking if you are this far in you might want to do some preventative maintence there too... but up to you...

 

Thanks for the suggestions on ticking off the neighbors. One is mad at me at the moment because I let my grass grow longer than he likes. But those pretty yellow flowers are so pretty....

Thanks for the great write-up on the injection cleaning. I may give it a try. Truck can be down for a while since it is one of my spare vehicles. Dumb question or two - how would I identify my injectors and do they have to go back to the same location they came out of?

The parts thing is still driving me crazy. I just looked at partsguyed's site and there seem to be two different of everything (pump, pan, gaskets, shaft, etc.). That is the only aggravating thing about buying online. I have no doubt I they will get it right but just a pain to put the order together.

I will probably leave well enough alone on the valve cover gaskets since they aren't leaking although it would be nice to see the condition of the heads as far as sludge buildup goes.

Also now thinking about doing the water pump while I have the radiator out. Not having any cooling issues and I should probably leave well enough alone but now WOULD be the time to do it. What are my chances of getting the pump off without breaking any of the bolts? Somewhere between slim and none?

 

no the injectors don't have to go back in the same spot... they all pump the same ammount of fuel and they are essentially only an one way valve that the computer opens and closes to let fuel in at the same time...

they should look like one of the first two in the 19# row....
19 lb ev6 image by orygunordnance on Photobucket

If you are agrivated abouty buying online try www.rockauto.com the give you a few choices but all work for the same application. Except for replacement fuel tanks/pumps...

Water pump bolts can be a real aggrivator! I would hose them down with PB Blaster for a few days and try removing the bolts... I would still change the water pump even if i broke a few along the way. It would be way worse having it go out later and then having to deal with tighter spaces and broken bolts. Make sure to use some good antiseize upon reinstallation if you do go for it!

 

check that I would start hosing everything with PB Blaster now so it has a few days to settle in... hit the bolts your going to have problems with several times a day for several days before you get into it... Save you a lot of swaring... then again your neighbors do need a show right???