ANY shop/mechanic;

Knowledge, Integrity.

If they have both, customers are happy. If they are missing either item, we have problems. Same for us as customers...

 

dude, you did something that all americans should do ....use your brain! if everyone was like you the dealers wouldnt be the way they are. i hate it when people come on here talking about how great the dealers are, and the point blank posts they put up like their word is final say......F them guys man! i used to be a dealer tech, and i made a lot of freaking money, thats all it was about there man, $$$$$$ ! so i quit and joined the Marine Corps. so when you go in there and stand your ground against this retarded service manager, dont expect much back except for a free oil change and tire rotation.....stuff that doesnt cost him much money. screw the dealer, and screw all the lying cheating stealership prima donna techs out there, cause the only reason you might know somethin about these trucks is because you screwed it up so many times and got it right once.

 

Well I guess I'll relate my story. I bought my 05 used in 2007 with about 50,000 miles on it. When I was looking at it I was going to walk away because I heard this funny noise that I couldn't explain at the time. The dealer assured me that they stand behind their product and offered to have the mechanic check it for me. I went back with the truck and he went through the TSB and declared that it was normal. I believed him at the time and I still think he was being honest.

Now fast forward 2 years, the truck had about 65,000 miles on it and I was having trouble with what I thought was the transmission or TPS problem. I brought it back to the dealer because I wanted them to do the power flush and flash the PCM. After a little while the mechanic came out(different guy) and started to explain that my problem was the cam phasers and that he was measuring 20% error when there should only be 5%. Then the service manager started to pitch me the extended service plan which would cover this and a few other problems they happened to notice.

I walked away and ended up replacing the plugs with champions and changing the fuel filter. That fixed the problem right up and the truck runs beautifully now.

I don't really think there is a need to change the phasers. They tick at idle but unless it starts throwing codes or running crappy I don't want to mess with it.

And that oil sludge story is BS. Unless they can inspect the oil passages and find them blocked their is no basis for that assertion.

 

have you had any similar problems since replacing the solenoid? You only replaced one? How did you know which?

 

timmerml, my truck is still with mechanic i should get back today or tomorrow. I actually replaced the solenoid 1st cause of reading the forums on the guy that had a 2004 ford and changed the cam phaser and the cam sensor and still didn't work on his so then he changed the solenoid on it and it worked. So i decided to change the solenoid 1st but it still not working so they are changing both cam phasers and cam sensors today to see what happens. Hopefully that will be it. I was getting a CODE 0012 and 0016 on my truck and it was on bank 2 which is the passenger side.

 

Another problem i have with my 2006 Ford 4x4 is the 4x4 don't rotate the front tires when it engages. The dealership told me it was the actuators that were bad does everyone agree on that or what have you all heard?

 

Could be IWE solenoid. I cant imagine both actuators binding at the same time. Do a search for "everything you wanted to know about the IWE system". XJCamaro did a nice troubleshooting write up. It is in the sticky "'04 - '08 f-150 tips and tricks. The system is very simple and easy to diagnose.

 

Anyone have a timing chain tensioner break
166355 kl never any problem with truck this week going to the cottage check light came on stopped looked under hood smelled burnt oil saw oil on fender right side checked oil was low.
Went to dealer down the road in the place I stoped at.they took it right in 10 min. later showed me hole in valve cover,will need to remove to see what damage done.
they checked codes came up bad cam sensor and valve cover.
They said this is rare Lets hope so.LOL
The tensioner broke cousing the chain to jump taking out the Cam sensor
Left truck as parts would not be there till next morning got room in motel for the night
by 3pm next day on road again
Valve cover-$220.00
Cam Sensor $384.00
Timing chain and arm $70.00
Tensioner that was the pice that started the problem $80.00
and $55.00 in gaskets
plus $735.00 labour
Taxes $200
Total was $1781.00
The motor still has the same slight tick it always had

 

Thank you! this thread did help me very much.

Twas the day before Christmas eve 2010 and my truck started the day by idling rough.. like bad gas.. three quarters of the way through my day and the check engine light came on.... off to my "trusty" ford dealer.

after a short time I was told it was not good news. that I have 3 choices
1. rebuild my engine for $2-3K
2. install a new engine for many more $$
3. trade in my vehicle.

my truck is just a baby!.. 127000 miles. I am the sole owner! I have been very good with engine maintenance. But after having to have replace the bearings THREE times and now this!!! I am done with Ford vehicles.. I declined the rebuild and new engine..and was NOT about to throw more money at this truck. I have already complained to the Ford Motor company about lack of quality in the Ford parts.... after having to replace the bearings twice... GRRR.... then again after the 3rd time...GRRR GRRR.

I asked my trusty Ford service advisor.. what could I have done differently to prevent this??? and he said.. "oh nothing.. you are very good with your maintenance.. just sometimes in the F150 Sludge builds up and it doesn't matter if you are meticulous about maintenance"... oh and "... no you can't wait 6 months... you can't even wait for the holidays to be over...you need to be careful as it can throw a rod at any time and leave you stranded.... let me give you my cell phone while you drive it home just incase something happens...."

now if that doesn't make you nervous about driving your vehicle... my truck has been parked in my driveway since....

I am having one of my customer's mechanic's evaluate the engine tomorrow.. maybe he can fix it with a bandaid of sorts so I can at least get a good trade value.

when looking up the codes online P0012, P0174, P0300, P0301,and P0316. VCT Solenoids stuck. and reading the possible fixes...

MAYBE I just need a good tune up! and after reading your post...maybe that ticking noise will go away too!

I can trade the dang thing and buy a new Mercedes GLK or a BMW X5 for less $ than I paid for my truck.

When you can't trust the quality of the parts or the "trained" Ford Mechanics.. maybe its time to give up on american made vehicles.. just my $0.02

 

Just curious how often you changed oil and at what mileage the bearings were replaced. I've about 102,000 on mine but haven't had any problems other than the cam phaser noise. I change my own oil about every 3000 or so with Motorcraft 5w-20 until around 50,000. I switched to full synthetic Mobil 1 or Valvoline recently (last 3 changes). Did you use a Motorcraft oil filter or was it an oil change business special. I have used Motorcraft, Mobil 1, K&N, WIX, and recently the new Bosch filters.

 

I've never trusted anybody to work on my vehicles. I got scammed twice in my young, dumb daze. Twice is enough. Aside from changing tires, getting smog tests, warranty work, or something I absolutely cannot handle alone like a cab-off repair (fortunately that's never happened), I do everything myself these days. I know and control what goes in and what comes out. If I need to buy a tool, I buy it as fast as my wife buys shoes. The big diff is my tools pay for themselves :-)

It's amazing how not much is ever found wrong during warranty repairs, but as soon as warranty is out and we have to pay the bill out-of-pocket, the list of stuff that need to be replaced is lengthy and expensive.

There's a difference--from what I'm learning, Corporate Ford audits the repairs and reimburses the dealer for warranty work only if documented and justified. At the other extreme, the average John Q Public wouldn't know whether he's being raped or not. There's always the guilt trip tactic too...if you don't fix it this moment, you'll [fill-in-the blank] The dealer has nothing to lose until it gets pointed out like Tommy did.

I'm sure this is true with any dealer, not just Ford.

What really gets me are folks who rave about the most-excellent service at the dealer of my wife's car. Yeah, they get pampered and buttered with personal service advisers, free snacks, drinks, leather furniture while it's done. It's amazing what brown-nosing will do to make people forget they're paying 5x more than necessary on a $200 oil change. The typical mentality is, "yeah, they're expensive, but they gave excellent service. I'll definitely recommend them and go back"

 

Pennzoil was bought by Shell by in the early 2000s, and has evolved into Shell's flagship retail oil line.

Modern Pennzoil has NOTHING in common with the Pennzoil of yesteryear. No PA crude, nothing. Pennzoil yellow bottle is actually superior to Valvoline white bottle and Castrol GTX in the detergent area. By "hating" Pennzoil you are missing out on one of the best mainstream oils currently available.

 

Sorry for the delay in posting a follow up to my problem. Could not remember my Passwd to save my life... Anyway...

The terrible ticking and rough idle / stalling at stops was fixed by going to 15-40 diesel oil. I knew the problem was fixed within 30 seconds of starting once the new oil was in. No phaser noise, no more ticking and most importantly no more rough idle and stalling when sitting at a red light. I have not had the issue since. Being from Maryland I did change to 10-40 for the winter months. NOT ONE ISSUE since I went to a heavier oil. Say what you want about the engine being built for 5-20, the truck runs great now...

Keith

 

I also have an issue with P0012 and P0021 codes and in my research I have found the following:

Solenoids are a weak point dealing with extreme varnishing / sludge (my truck had 225,000 miles on it when I bought it for 500.00 and I was amazed at the varnishing inside when I changed most of the timing components)

Oil weight of 5-20 is way too thin and I have since changed to 5-40 Shell T6 and now my truck idles without stalling and too much rattle, mind you I still have the P0012 and P0021 codes.

Motorcraft filters are probably the best filter available on the planet and that is why they show up on Chrysler and GM vehicles from time to time.

When I bought my truck I got it for 500.00 due to the extreme noise in the engine, mind you at 360,000 kilometers it was a high miler especially for a 2005 model year but all in all a Screw Lariat for 500.00? I couldn't resist. Since then I have replaced most of the timing gear on the vehicle but not the Phasers and I used a set of solenoids from a spare 05 Mustang 4.6l engine I had kicking around but I didn't change the valve body's as I didn't have a new set of gaskets.

Going back a bit earlier now......when I first got the truck I took it in to a pal's oil change business and prior to giving it my first oil change I ran a can of engine flush through the engine while driving it and running at temp. When it first went on the hoist the oil was blacker than black.....I mean I have never seen black that black before! So I filled er up with some conventional 5-20 and a new filter and away I went hammering away at idle and stalling at lights and so on. I ran that oil change for about 500 kilometers (300 miles) then ran another can of engine flush through it for a full day before the next oil change and once again the oil was black and filthy but not as bad as the first time. Away I go hammering away at idle and stalling at all the stop lights.

Skipping ahead now a few more oil changes with a day of engine flush before each one the oil is now just looking like it needs changing with less than 3000 kilometers on the last one so now I am running the Shell 5-40 T6 synthetic with a motorcraft filter of course and the engine now idles ok but still knocks just not as bad and I still get the codes mentioned before.

Now my next plan of attack is to take on the source of the codes:

The P0012 indicates an issue that points mainly to the VCT Solenoid on the passengers side but I actually believe it may well be related to the valve body being sludged up and restricting oil flow so this time I am going to service the valve body (I have gaskets now) and try the same solenoid with a replacement solenoid in hand of course.

The P0021 looks like it is pointing to the cam phaser on the drivers side which is where most of the knocking comes from so I am planning to replace the phaser and clean the valve body too of course.

I have made this determination on my own with some support from a Ford tech buddy of mine as well as an understanding of how the VVT system functions and the changes that have happened as the engine cleans it's self with a concentrated effort one getting rid of the varnish and sludge.

I will keep you posted as to my findings but remember this..........sludge is the enemy as far as VVT is concerned, use good oil and good filters and change it frequently and I am sure you can avoid severe repair bills, BTW prolonged periods of idling can also contribute to sludge.

 

I agree. I use Mobile One oil and Wix filters.