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I took a couple 1/2" pins and welded some 't' handles on them.
For them to fit through the bottom of the Dorman end links, the lower bushings needed to be drilled out to 1/2". Very little material was removed to accomplish this.
Amazon.com supplied a two piece steel collar (size = 1 7/16") for $7. I welded a tab to this collar with a 1/2" hole. I then made a 'L' bracket that uses the top bolt of the axle/sway bar bushing retainer, again with a 1/2" hole.
The collar is tightened to the sway bar in a manner that rotates the sway bar up and out of the way (more ground clearance) when the pin is installed.
For now, I'll ziptie the end links up to the frame when disconnecting the front sway bar; I may make brackets for the end links that utilize the pins with 't' handles down the road. The sway bar can now be disconnected in seconds and rotated up and out of the way and securely pinned in place.
I love it!
was looking around for Ideas on how to do mine and came across your solution. I was thinking about the pins for the link but couldn't figure out what to do about the bar itself, other the removing it and putting in the bed (one more thing to flop around). PERFECT solution
Nicely done! I'm still not convinced I see the need, but if you're going to do it, do it right. You've earned yourself a cold beer with that one!
I wasn't all that convinced on the need either... until I went to put on my level kit. had the frame on jackstands and the axle on two jacks. Could get one side to drop enough to put the second leaf spring on, so I unbolted the links. Once the second one was loose I gained another 3-4" that kind of articulation is not always need but very helpful when it is.
I love it!
was looking around for Ideas on how to do mine and came across your solution. I was thinking about the pins for the link but couldn't figure out what to do about the bar itself, other the removing it and putting in the bed (one more thing to flop around). PERFECT solution
Reps sent! wish i could send more.
Thank You! I hope it works well for you. One thing that I did do after I posted this solution, was to take up the end space on the end link pins with a couple thick washers....at the bottom of both end links, after sliding in the 1/2" pins with t-handles and before securing them with the small locking pins, take up any extra space with washers. This will prevent the pins from sliding and putting stress on the outside of the pin; this resolved a small clunk I was getting from the new removable pins.
Thank You! I hope it works well for you. One thing that I did do after I posted this solution, was to take up the end space on the end link pins with a couple thick washers....at the bottom of both end links, after sliding in the 1/2" pins with t-handles and before securing them with the small locking pins, take up any extra space with washers. This will prevent the pins from sliding and putting stress on the outside of the pin; this resolved a small clunk I was getting from the new removable pins.
Right on!
appreciate the update, ordering the collar and Dorman links Fri when i get paid. Should have this done by the next weekend.
I know I'm pretty late to the party, but a 1/2" 3-point receiver hitch pin with a redrilled hole might be easier (though maybe not as effective) to use than the welded t-handle (nice job on that by the way). I've been doing a bit of research and taking measurements. I think it might work. Will post pics of it if so.
(Sorry to revive an old thread, but didn't see anything else as good as this)
So this has finally popped to the top of the stack of my to-do list. Big thanks to @mmuthart for the how-two on this! Really stoked to be able to get some sort of solution going. I've used my Excursion as a bike shuttle rig, and with the hellwigs it's really really stiff. So stiff that I'm hesitant to drive anywhere near as fast down a dirt road as I would have in my old tacoma.
Did everybody that did this mod just leave their rear swaybar on and connected? I would think that if anything (from a vehicle dynamics perspective--for safe drivable understeer) you'd want to pull your rear swaybar and keep your front. Disconnecting the front and leaving the rear attached means lots of oversteer (at least on the highway). Did anybody just pull off their rear swaybar and install disconnects for their front (so they can at least have the front swaybar for the highway)?
In looking at the rear, installing a collar and locking pin seems less straightforward as it looks like the sway bar (when swung up towards the chassis and away from the ground) interferes with the frame... What have others done with the rear?
Oh wow. I'm seeing now that some excursions shipped without rear sway bars. Forgive my (prior) ignorance. I think I might just be ripping my rear one off since I don't tow and already installed a set of airbags...
For the nerds out there: I went looking for a less stiff front sway bar so that my understeer doesn't get too bad when I pull my rear sway bar. The stock front 4wd sway bar is 36mm, and the Hellwig is 38mm. The formula for torsion bar spring rate has diameter to the fourth power in the numerator. So (38/36)**4 = 1.24 = 24% more spring rate. Basically not enough for me to care to try and find a stock-sized sway bar for now, I think.
Wow. I've read so many threads that say "the best upgrade I've made is dual Hellwigs." I'm gonna get flamed but: let me say, the best upgrade I've made is completely removing the rear Hellwig for on-road driving and disconnecting the front for off road. Wayyyyy more comfortable ride with both disconnected (you just have to drive it like a truck), and, frankly, way more stable and less twitchy ride with the front on and the rear off while highway driving. Granted, I'm not towing, and I already have x-code fronts and dualie rears with new Bilsteins and air bags (for carrying a water tank, a bed, a fridge, and a bunch of other overlanding BS).
We're a little over a year early to resurrect this thread.
I still haven't found a solution for me short of taking it to a specialty shop and have them fabricate something (which is not my desire). It would be cost-prohibitive for me to have something made to my standards.
When I off-road I still take off both sway bars and then put them back on when I'm done.
We're a little over a year early to resurrect this thread.
I still haven't found a solution for me short of taking it to a specialty shop and have them fabricate something (which is not my desire). It would be cost-prohibitive for me to have something made to my standards.
When I off-road I still take off both sway bars and then put them back on when I'm done.
I took my front off last year when I took my truck for the first time and I left it off. I dont notice anything really detrimental, needed to avoid a few deer and nothing out of the ordinary. Cant go back on now as I smashed the lower bolts so off they came.
With the improvements in battery powered tools, the easiest solution could be to replace the existing nut and bolt with a version that can be easily removed with a wrench and battery powered 1/2" impact, like a Milwaukee or Earthquake. A simple bolt with a nylock nut would be almost easier than hitch pins and would not rattle.
08-30-2015, 03:05 PM
