Driving me nuts... First I've had 2 raditators replaced. 1st. one they added Venturi Tee. 2nd. one they changed Hyper Thermostacts.
All signs of problems to me was loss of coolant in degas bottle.
From the Last fix the coolant held at the cold mark for 2 weeks. Then on a interstate towing trip it dropped down to venturi tee level.
Dealer said no leaks in radiator. Put dye in it. Got it back from dealer with dye and at the cold marks on Degas bottle. Drove it around town and it held for a week. Towed for 100 miles. Coolant dropped to Tee again and there was dye around the Degas cap. Seemed to puke out of the Degas Cap and coolant was still down to Tee.
Here is the shocker. When I got home and shut the truck off I opened the Degas cap just to see if there was pressure and when I loosened the cap all the fluid came back into the bottle up to the coolant marks.
What the heck is going on? I thought the coolant is supposed to stay up in the degas bottle. Something made it stay in the system then when I released the pressure it sprang back into the Degas bottle.

 

that is wierd i will have to try that myself.. the thing that leaves me scratching my head is that the law of physics...

when coolant heats up shouldnt it expand? therfore be a little high in the system... so then when its cold shouldnt it be at the lowest marks (compressed)on the degass bottle

i dont get it my self let alone where is it hiding and why does it puke, the waterpump on these trucks are supposed to move gallons of water and fast?

got me but i can count more than a handfull of people just on this board that are starting to have this problem.. one would think ford engineers know whats happening...

 

My question is how is the other 6.4's Degas bottle's acting?

Does yours stay at all times in the Degas bottle? maybe get higher as the engine gets to operating temp?
I think mine puked because the tech added coolant back into it while adding dye. It was at the lower cold line and I added to get it too the higher line.
So when the tech checked for leaks and found none it must have been inside the system? I'm puzzled for sure. I don't want a hugh bill for this one.

 

that is wierd. Complete opposite of what should be happening.

Mine will expand in the bottle and contract when cold, just as it is suppose to. I have had some splatter on occasion if the motor is running really hard but of no concern.

So it would appear to me that somewhere your motor is drawing it in to be burned. Releasing the pressure somehow gave the coolant a less restrictive path to follow, therefore it traveled back into the degass bottle.

So It would appear to act like a vacumn leak would?

I bet this an EGR related issue but don't know how you would prove it.

 

no i quit adding when they told me "I" put to much in it and that why it is puking..so i marked it after i got it back and told them i will just drive it and add notta....

low and behold coolant kept dropping and puking.. they did the hyper thermos and water pump added dye and it still pukes and up and down. if i drive more than 200kms at a time coolant will be below the T, and signs of puke... leave it all night and it comes back up but at a lower level.. oh and sometime after short drives before the coolant is real hot i will pop the hood and the coolant will be right at the top of the bottle....
the only one to add coolant for the past 2mths is the ford techs and it is still all over the place.

confused for sure.. and cant get a straight answer.

 

Just Before I loosened the cap and had the coolant come back. I had the tech look at it to show it was down and puked some fluid out. He said to bring it in and something about testing the EGR stuff and had to pull lot's of stuff around right side of engine,etc. He doesn't know about the loosening of the cap and coolant raceing back as I did this as soon as I got home.
I have an appointment Tue. I'll have to try to make sure he knows about this. I wish I did this in front of him.

 

sounds like we might have the same issue..what is your next move? does your tech/dealer want to see it again? what are you going to do?

 

well right now im at a stand still.. they have checked the complete EGR system..

changed the EGR valve it was old style and stuck open, swabed the EBP tube on the Horizontal cooler and it was dry, checked the vertical cooler and it was ok to..
checked behind the waterpump for cavitation. none. replaced waterpump (it cracked)

si i have just done my first blackstone oil report and am waiting to get the results back before i go any further.

i tend to think like what senix suggested, that there is a leak into the combustion chamber and is acting like a vacum.. but i wont be able to rule on that till i get my oil analysis back.

but it looks like it will have to go in for the no heat issue

so im at a wait and see stage trying to learn as much as i can.. hope this helps.

koboss

 

There are stock trucks on other forums with head gasket issues. Ford already has an updated head gasket for the 6.4's. Just something to ponder.

 

I have no coolant in the oil. Black stone got back to me just last week. If the head gasket is gone maybe the coolant doesn't get in the oil just burns up and out the exhust? I have dye in mine so maybe it might show on the exhust and get by the dpf.

 

Just got my Job 1 450 back after being in the shop for another week. Mine also puking out the degas bottle. Ran fine for 28k. Fisrst fix was new degas cap - lasted 2 weeks towing then back to old tricks. This time they said there were some lose hoses at EGR and thermostat, and one bad theremostat. (I had one thermostat replaced whn raditaor was replaced 12 months10k mikes ago. Now get this. Even though the degas bottle was fine, and itslevel never been more than 2 inches below the low line, even with the past problems and leaks, tech said radiator was only half full and the engine was overheating. The gauges never read anything but normal; he had computer on it trying to diagnose the smoke issue. Apparently this engine can have hot spots and create air pockets that can't be purged through normal driving. Sorry, I don't know how they purged them or if they only came about because of the bad thermostat that gave no appearances of being bad, or antifreeze leaks that never appeared on the ground.

So my guess is you have a pocket of air and boiling water inside, and as soon as you open cap slightly and let off the pressure, it bubbles (boils)out.

My very old experience with a heater not working is that radiator is low, but we can't check anything but degas bottle unless we want to take off a radiator hose.

Good Luck,

 

Matt from Spartan discussed that issue a year or so ago. Maybe I can dig it up.

 

HAve you guys checked to see if your Venturi Tee is installed correctly? If it was put in backwards it could be causing a problem.

 

how do you tell if it is installed correctly?

 

please do..I want to stay of top of this issue and keep this problem from getting out of hand and giving me a huge bill down the road.
I hate to take it in Tue. he wants me too. Gonna tear it apart some more..to do testing.