So I changed my exhaust back pressure sensor out yesterday since the old one was reading 24lbs all the time, even with the engine not running and would go up to 40lbs then would blank out on the screen as if the PCM was unable to read it.
I haven't taken any readings from the PCM since but today when driving my truck around I noticed that I was getting what sounds like a vacuum leak sound coming from the area of the turbo. I called my buddy who also has been getting this noise from his truck and he said that he talked to a diesel mechanic and the mechanic said that it's just a cold turbo. The turbo is making that noise because of how cold it is outside and hasn't warmed up yet. My noise never went away, even after driving down the hwy for over an hour.

Well I wanted to get your guys opinions because I trust your opinions more then 98% of the mechanics.

So basically the noise only accurs when holding a steady speed or with a extremely mild acceleration. We're talking like 5 MPH increase in about 6 block or more. It goes away with deceleration and with a moderate amount of acceleration.

The only thing I can figure is that the PCM is seeing enough exhaust pressure that it's releasing excess intake pressure to reduce the exhaust pressure except on acceleration.

The other nice thing I noticed is that my idle has SMOOOOOTHED out. That's quite nice. Now it doesn't feel like a gas motor with partially carboned plugs. It used to have this slight miss to it.

The disadvantage may be a little more poor fuel economy as I think I was getting about 18mpg today on the hwy when I typically get about 20. Could just be because of some of the city driving too though.

 

Sounds to me like your EBPV operating. (Its right at the turbo mount) Try unplugging the solenoid (lower most part of the turbo mount) and see if you still have the sound. You may have leaks in the tube that feeds the pressure to your EBP sensor. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...topped-up.html

That will cause all sorts of issues for you, none of which are desirable.

 

CPUNeck called it.

 

When exactly are those stupid things supposed to be closed, or half-closed or whatever? Mine will close all the way if left to idle up when it's really cold. The other night, I started without plugging in in about 25*, and noticed as I was driving at certain RPM, I could hear it closing half-way (hissing noise). What's up with this? I bet it does wonders for MPG.

 

OK, thanks, I planned on pulling it anyhow and cleaning the tube of all debri and inspecting it for holes.
Dang, maybe I should put the old EBPS back on.

 

I believe the mission of the valve (other than keeping BIG oil happy) is to ensure the OP temp of the engine doesn't fall below a prescribed level. If your not working the engine hard enough, the PCM will "add" load to the engine in an attempt to achieve and maintain that threshold temperature.

I believe some of this nonsense could be eliminated if Ford had gone with IH's 203 degree thermostat. This would assist engine heating WITHOUT expending any more fuel. The latent heat is already there. But, no proof, my EBPV has been gone for years, but I do have the 203* stat. (for years too)

 

So I noticed a little oil on the turbo pedistal where the ebpv plug goes into the pedistal, anything to worry about. It's not soaked, just an oily film with some dirt. Maybe I should take a picture, but any thoughts?

 

Is it uniform in application? Perhaps a "mist" of oil, blown all around by the monster fan up front, and grill sucking in air at mach ???. If so, it's probably blow by off your CAC pipes, or your intake plenums. Very common. Feel around the boots connecting your intake to your 5-way plenum. Is it "damp" with oil/dirt. May even have a drop or two of oil hanging off the bottom of the boot. If so, it's normal. Best thing to do is remove the boots, clean the mating surfaces WELL, and re-affix. Not saying the valve isn't leaking, it could be as it is operated with oil, but you should have clear signs, with wet oil around the linkage or on the front by the plug.

 

I have a related question.

Can the ebps and tube be deleted? I already have the valve delet pedistal and tubro outlet.

 

Yep, just got around to doing mine. No problems, when you remove the tube at the manifold, you can either cap the JIC fitting with a #5 cap, or remove the fitting from the manifold and plug with a 3/8" NPT plug (IIRC) Then you'd be sure there was no exhaust leaking through the tube!

 

Thanks, CPUNeck.

That will get rid of a few potential problems.

 

Yea, no kidding on the EBPS delete.
Anyhow, so I unplugged the EBPV and what do you know, no more hiss. I think my friend's mechanic may be an idiot! LOL
Anyhow. So thank you everyone for your response. Right on the money again!!!

In regards to the oil, it could very well be left over oil from the dog house but I have since re-routed the dog house tubing to under the frame. One of these days I'll move it further back on the frame, preferably near the exhaust. However I do have a couple of oil leaks starting that I plan on fixing ASAP. One that I'm not looking forward to is the dipstick seal on the oil pan and the other would be my driver's side valve cover. Apparently after I put it back on after doing the 50 cent mod I didn't get it sealed back up all the way. I may need new gaskets, but I'm hoping not, those things are kind of spendie.

Also, what would you guys think about putting the EBPV on a toggle switch for these cold times when you need to warm up the truck? Has anyone done that?

 

Several of us have put a switch in there.
It makes a handy exhaust brake as well.
Use a three position ON/OFF/ON switch and wire it like this.
One "on" position will give you factory configuration.
The middle "off" position will completely disable it.
The other "on" position will close the EBPV completely and turn it into an exhaust brake.

 

Sweet, would have been a while before I would have thought of something like this. LOL, thanks, I think I'll do that but how do you guys go about extending the PCM wire to the switch. Do you cut the wire that is there or what?

 

You could tap into the wiring on top of the driver's side inner fender before the 42 pin connector for a shorter route (and neater look) to the inside of the cab, but cutting into the wires on the engine to the EBPV solenoid would be easier to access.