I haven't been able to pick up a repair manual to help me diagnose what these hoses and tubes go to, so I thought I would post some pics here and see what you guys have to say about it.

 

Can't tell by the 1st 2 pictures for sure what goes to what, but I would say they have to do with gas evaporator. It would be mounted below the battery near the frame. There was a couple of hoses attached to it and one of them would run back to the gas tank.

The last picture, your snorkle piece is missing. It would of pulled heated air from your exhaust when the motor was cold and fresh air from the front of the truck.

Now that I looked at the pictures again the 1st picture looks like it was a vacuum hose that would of run up to the vacuum switch off of the thermastat houseing. It almost looks like the hose is broke in two pieces.

The 2nd picture looks like it may have went up to the carb and hooked up to the fitting to the right of the fuel inlet on the carb.

I'm doing this by memory of when I took all my stuff off when I changed my motor out. Hope that helps

 

1st pic, the brass is still in the hose, look at the carb for a hole it fits into, will solve 1 of your vaccume leaks when you plug it back in. 2nd pic, the hose would have went to your smog pump, which is missing. your battery cable is hooked to the bracket for it. you need to move the cable, that's not a very good ground. 3rd pic, the snorkel is missing off your air cleaner, it would have had a flex pipe going to the heat shield on the exhaust, and a square plastic tube going to the front of the truck on the core support for fresh air intake.

 

Dustybumpers, thanks, that really helps a lot. BTW, where should the ground cable for battery be connected?? The reason I ask is that yesterday I was tinkering around and found an old Battery connector and the wire looks like it runs under the engine somewhere near the transmission. I haven't goten under the truck to follow it exactly, but is this the original battery ground or something else that was connected to the battery.

 

usually they are hooked to the block on pass side near the motor mount. some people, me included, hook it to one of the bolts that hold the starter to the bell houseing.what year is your truck? looks like an 86, but you are missing a lot of stuff off the motor. if it ever quits raining here, I will get you some pics of my 86.

 

Cool thanks. Yep its an 86 and you're right it is missing a bunch of stuff. The truck was most recently used as a dump run truck then sold to the guy I bought it from The truck runs great, but its missing the butterfly valve and other tubes and stuff on the carb so I have to pour gas down the air intake to get it started. It also looks to have had a manual choke at some point but that cable is cut near the carb and all hardware still present inside cab. Tomorrow I'll finally be free to go to the part store and pick me up a Haynes manual which should help me out in getting everything IDed so I can replace them.

 

looks like the computer has been disabled. look at the distributer, and see if it has a small cap and a modual, or a large cap with a bunch of wires comeing out of it. if computer has been disabled, a new plan of attack will have to happen, could get real costly to put back to stock. feedback carb alone is $250 + core.

 

Well, I don't know that I necessarily want it back to stock. My main concern is to just get the carburetor working properly so I don't have to keep taking the air filter off and pouring gas down it. This truck is my third vehicle to be used as my play truck/hunting truck/bad weather truck so it doesn't necessarily need to be stock. BTW, the catalytic converter is off and I'm going to be pulling the fram oil filter off for a Napa Gold filter this weekend.

Heres a photo of the distributor.

 

thats the one with the modual, so the computer is still hooked up. use a motorcraft FL1A on the I6, it is the only filter out there that has a check valve for oil drain back. get pics of all 4 sides of the carb so that I can see what is missing. even with the choke hooked back up, it still has to be hooked up electricly to make it operate properly. I have a stock air cleaner here off my 82 if you want it, but would be probly cheaper to go to the junk yard, by the time you pay for shipping

 

HEre you go!

 

that's the wrong carb for your truck. not raining here today, mabe I can get some pics later for you off my 86, it's all stock. the wire sticking out is your choke pre heater, needs 12 volt constant. look around, other end should be there some where, comes from the alternator.

 

Wow, what a butcher job. I'm actually not surprised because the carb is really loose. I can grab it and give it a little tug and its pretty loosy goosy.

Is the 7389S stamp the Carb ID#? Also if you are referring to the wire with the black connector for the choke, then yes I did find another part of the adapter laying around and connected them and it didnt change anything. However, I'll look around and see if I can find another wire.

That'd be great if you can get me a pic. There is a local boneyard that has a carb for the truck. I'll take a loook at it his week.

 

yeah. back yard mechanic. best to get a carb, rebuild kit is only $18. last one I got from jy was about $35. much cheaper than $250 for a rebuilt. problem you face is throttle position sensor not there, and the wires that control mixture. the solinoid that controls the idle usually goes bad anyway, but it needs to be there. the computer has to have this info. loose carb is bad for vaccume leaks, it's a wonder it runs at all. choke not going to wok at all, plate is missing. will get you some pics as soon as it warms up a bit, catching up on indoor chores now. big honey do list.

 

Ok, the local boneyard has one for $36. they don't know whether its an original or a replacement. They said it should be a Carter but no guarantees.

What are my options?? The throttle position sensor can be replaced for about $35-50 online. I looked on rock auto and in my haynes manual and dont see a throttle position sensor.

Can I switch to a non feedback carb? I'm assuming that I would have to switch my distributor, correct??

Another person recommended that I do a duraspark II swap to bypass all the computer crap. I think that runs about $400. That's 2/3rds price of what I paid for the entire truck.

It has the **** and cable for the manual choke, can I rebuild the carb from the boneyard and switch it over to manual choke??

Thanks for all your help.

 

carb from the boneyard should have the automatic choke on it. should be plug and play. get a new intake gasket, and stick it on, see what it does. pay close attention, and mabe some pics as you take it off, to hook it back up right. was going to get pics for you today, but ran out of time. snow beat me up here last weekend.