How do I get the darn motor out on the rear door of a 94 crew cab? Do I have to drill the rivets? I found the top screw for the motor. Cant find the other ones. I thought all these things had dimples to drill but this one doesn't.

 

RRranch, I dunno how to do that BUT!, I do have problems with my rear doors! The wires that go from the body into the rear doors have rotted out and broken! I don't know if you have looked for your problem there but both of my doors are INOP. b/c of that. To make matters worse my rear door is missing the door handle.

 

My problem is just the 3 bushings inside the gearbox. I thought. When I opened the door up to get to the motor today though it had no power. The power wire going between the door and pillar was cut. That was weird.

I sure can't see how to get that motor out without drilling out the regulator rivets though. I don't have that big rivet gun any more. Time to buy a new one.

 

I read it few times...(we had our X-mas party today)....I would check the between the and the pillar, that is where my problems lie.

 

My wiring problem just happened today. I think my son cut that wire today just to mess with me. He's lucky I can't prove it. That's fixed now but my motor still turns and doesn't move the window.
I need to get the motor out so I can fix it.

 

IF THAT IS FACT You do have your hands fool/full good luck w/that

 

If you get a replacement window motor it has instructions on drilling three holes to replace with bolts, they have three dents in the panel. my 250 has roll window, got tired replaceing elec door locks window motors,

 

I should have said drill holes to get to the bolts, it will the size of the bit

 

This one doesn't look like you can drill holes to get to the bolts. The rack gear is in the way of two of them. I can't see them but I had my hands on them from inside.

Plus I am not going to buy a new motor when all that is broken is three little bushings inside the motor.

Has noone done what I am talking about before on a Ford window motor? It's a rear door on a crew cab I have to get it out of.

 

maybe go parts store and open the box to see if there is instructions, it"s a gear on a bushing with little fins they use as a shock absorber and they sheer off.

 

I tried that last night. No luck. No instructions in the box. I made about 50 of those bushings inside the gearbox last night too. They work perfect. I am going to go make an educated guess on where to drill a couple holes and get this thing done. I'll take pictures since obviously noone else has done a rear door yet either.

 

on the old trucks there were the dimples marked for drilling for replaceing moters.

 

Only on the front doors are there dimples. I've never seen them on the rear doors before.

Anyway, heres the pictures. I got it all fixed now.

My son drilled these three extra holes while I was in the house trying to get warm and drink some coffee this morning. I just had to guess where to drill the ones to the left and right so I could get to the screws.


Have someone else hold the window up while your arm is in there pulling the motor out or else. It hurts.

Once you got the motor out this is what it will look like.



There will either be a single screw or a little plastic rivet like on this one that you need to remove then take the cover off.



Here's what the mess inside looks like when the little plastic bushings are all chewed up.



There is one small snap ring to remove then you can take this part out and then remove the plastic gear. Watch out for the little thrust washer on the metal part so you don't lose it. Blow out all the old grease and plastic junk real good from all the other parts and lube it lightly. I use moly assembly lube. It's always worked for me.



Here's what the new bushings are supposed to look like. Sortof. I made these in a hurry the other day out of some scrap delrin I had under my lathe and I couldn't find my cutoff tool so I hacksawed them to length. I know, ugly but it works.
Now just put the metal piece back on and the snap ring then the cover and the single screw to hold the cover on and put it back on the truck. It's real easy once you have the motor off. And a whole lot cheaper than an entire new motor. In my case the repair didn't cost me squat.

 

the last ones i rplaced had the ***** in complely chewed up and gone, had to buy rebuild ones. good job, and thanks for information.

 

Nice write up!
Thanks!