I plan on changing all the gauges to something more modern. I have been looking at
a set from Autometer that have a vintage flair to them. Obviously I will change all the gauges to a 12 volt type. I have not looked yet but does anyone have any experience
with aftermarket speedo systems for 2 speed rearends. I am told that I have a T-98 Warner transmission in the truck and plan on keeping it since all the research I have done indicates that this is a very heavy duty and reliable unit. I have found many adapter plates in order to install a big block in it so I am not worried about the swap. It is all these little things (like the speedo) that I typically forget about until the end. I am just trying to get all this information beforehand. I plan on taking the cab off in about 2-1/2 weeks so I will have the cab in one bay and the chassis in the other. Those pictures should be interesting.
Does anyone know of an later model truck year that I can get for parts that will be somewhat compatible with the 55?

 

I was planning to use VDO gages. There's also a company called Livorsi that makes marine gages. The advantage here is they have a speedometer that uses built-in GPS..... Then it doesn't matter what gears/tires you have. It'll always be accurate.

I don't know if VDO has GPS speedo's yet but I'm sure they're coming everywhere. super accurate and will work anywhere in anything.

Livorsi Marine - Standard-Waterproof Gauges


There's nothing wrong with the steering. I removed my front axle and took it to American Frame and Axle in Kent WA. They installed new (slightly oversize) king-pins and now it steers straight and true.

Cheers,

Rick

 

Donnie~
When you say another year truck that you can get (donor) parts for your 55, what kind of parts would you like a donor to have on it? Are you thinking something like this:

As an example, I had found a rust free running 63 F600 cab and chassis I was going to buy for $300. Thought I'd get usable front and rear axles with at least bigger / better brakes and an electric 2 spd vs vacuum rear. And the added plus was a going to 6 stud wheels, where there are more lock ring wheels availabe to get away from the widowmakers. And the truck had 6 useable wheels on it.

 

That is exactly what I am talking about, a newer truck with more updated equipment.
I like the idea of the 6 lug axles and better brakes.
I did not know about the gps speedo. Am I understanding you correctly when you say gps you mean that there is no axle/tranny hookup at all? Also I am guessing that all that the speedo needs is 12 volt power. I am waiting for the day soon when they will put micro chips in kids in order to locate them.
Would it be possible to adapt air brakes from a donor vehicle if a compressor is installed in the truck. this would obviously be the best braking system. However this might be overkill for this truck.
The tires on this truck are 9R 22.5 . The previous owner thinks that the owner before him might have changed the wheels.
I checked the glovebox tag and it reads F6025C17581. It also says the tranny is a 4 synch which would correlate with what you guys told me. THANX DONNIE

 

If you have 55 with 22.5's, you are one lucky dude!!

The GPS requires nothing but power. That's why I like it!!

It's also the most accurate!

 

Yes, sounds like you've already got wheels a lot of folks lust for. Can you tell if the wheels / tires have tubes in them, or are truly tubeless? If tubeless the valve stem would seal around the valve stem hole in the wheel, if a tube you should be able to see the edge of the whole, like a bicycle wheel.

And I guess before you go down the path of swapping axles and converting a brake system, you might want to ask yourself how you plan to use the truck. Swapping out to an air system sounds like a lot of work to me, compresser, lines, check valves, drains, pressure valves, actuation pedal, air tanks etc, etc.

 

The wheels have a valve stem sticking out with a nut and what appears to be a rubber washer under it. So I am guessing that they are tubeless. Am I correct in assuming that these are not the dreaded widowmaker wheels? Also these wheels appear to be centered by the lug nuts and not the hub. Feedback?

 

If they are 22.5s they are tubeless, no exceptions. Not widowmakers. I guess some owners ran tubes as a precaution, but the wheels weren't designed for that. They're ball seat/stud piloted because that's the only system used by Ford during that era. I agree that while most prior owners do more harm than good, this is one instance where the p. o. saved your bacon. The first year for tubeless rims was '56. Stu

 

Well good for you Donnie.

I've run across some strange stuff, and just wanted to be sure, reason for line of questioning on wheels / valve stems. There's misleading info on the web where people think 22.5" and 20" rims and tires can be swapped either way. Yeah, I know Stu....

That's the problem with the web, if it's in print it must be true right? Anybody can post a thought and around the world it goes spreading faster than a spark in dry grass.

And that's where a place like this is a great resource, you have the opportunity to interface with some people that have real world experience.

 

Thanx for the info guys. I am glad I don,t have to deal with the widowmaker issue. These wheels are however riveted. Do I need to get them welded or are they fine the way they are?
Like I have read before on these posts I see the wheel studs with r's and l's on them. I understand that this is the stud thread but what I do not understand is why Ford did this. Is it a rotational issue, or is it some other reason that I am not thinking of? I think I am going to need a bigger impact wrench to get those bad boys off.
Can you guys explain to me how to get pictures on this again. I really want to show you guys some pictures so that you may see something I am not. THANX DONNIE

 

Riveted, really? Maybe so on the very earliest of the tubeless rims, but I'd have thought they'd have all been welded. I see no need to weld them unless you find that you have an air leak around a rivet.

To my understanding all Budd style stud piloted wheels used left and right hand threaded lugs. Ford, Dodge, and IHC for sure that I've messed with. I assume the big rigs too. The Motor Wheel Corporation designed hub piloted system used first by GM, REO, and then by Studebaker used all right hand threads. Why the differences I can't say, but I'm sure the design engineers had their reasons. Like you suggest, it's probably the stresses of one versus the other.

Posting pictures is most easily done by setting up a Photobucket, Web Shots, Flicker, or similar account. It's free but you'll have to put up with their BS advertisements. Bob Jones has a thread at the very top of the first page that walks you through it. Stu

 

Firefox with the Adblock Plus add-on pretty much squashes their ads completely...

 

Hey guys a friend of mine said his father used to have a 56 Ford truck that was 4 wheel drive. He did not remember the size of the truck but said it was definitely a dump truck and he remembers it being bigger than a regular size pickup. Has anyone ever heard of this? I live in central Mass. and would LOVE to have a 4 wheel drive 1955 F600 dump. I can already see a 10 foot plow and a sander on it for the winter. Did they come from the factory like this or was this truck likely a home brewed version. What size axle and or transfer case would you need for this application?
Sorry but I guess for a while, at least until I start ripping this thing apart, I will have more questions than answers. Thanx Donnie

 

Donnie~
I'm surprised too that the wheels are riveted if tubeless. Regardless of tube or tubeless, something to watch for with riveted wheels is rust where the cented meets the rim, between the rivets. After hunting for wheels, pulling and getting them home, you may still get a surprise. A couple of pics below on where to watch. The wheel below didn't look bad, but once it came back from sandblast and paint I decided not to use. It's puffed up between the rivets - should be flush. And once the tire (still holding air) and tube were off you could see where rust was at work inside.

The 3rd pic shows another area to watch. With a deep inset between wheel face and rim, dirt can pack in the area circled and hold water, creating the perfect site for rust to go to work.

 

Yes on the 4X4 Ford's, a number of folks on the forum are aware of them and some are lucky enough to own them. Most were Marmon Herrington conversions, they did not come from the factory with 4 wheel drive. Below are a couple of pics of larger 4x4 Ford's, early than the 56, but still 4x4's. The 1st is a 51 MH conversion, the second a Coleman. And you might look at Dick Cutting's site below:
Dick Cutting's "Working Class" Trucks