I don,t think there is an IAC on 3V modulars (5.4 and 6.8). The 2V egines had them though.

 

Can someone help me out. I have a 99 F250 V10, Cranks strong but wont start. Pretty sure its the fuel pump. I dropped the tank but I cant get the fuel lines to disconnect from the top so that I can pull the tank out. They look a little different than the quick connect ones Ive seen before but I bought some quick connect tools (cheap plastic version) I push them along the line into the connection and I feel it give a little but I cant pull the line apart. Is there some trick to this? Its getting cold and Id really like to get this finished up lol


Thanks in advance


Heres some pics, they have weird retaining clips on them that you just pull out and up.

http://i39.tinypic.com/674b2d.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/1ttuhf.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/sxk7er.jpg

 

I'm not positive on this, but I think I used the light metal piece that is hanging loosely on the fuel line by the fitting. Just slide into the funneled? end, and it might just come right apart.

 

So I couldn't get the disconnect apart and wore the braided line ragged in the process, right in front of the sending unit. I just cut it off, of course once I got the tank out and could see inside the fitting it came right apart. Anyway now I have the fuel pump done and no way to get a new fuel line. Called Ford and the line only comes as one whole piece from the engine to the tank, as a package, but its been discontinued and there are none in the U.S. according to their computer, so I called a salvage yard, they cut all the lines when the trucks come in, so I called a Pick-a-part place, they cut their lines also. So I'm left trying to splice this thing I guess? I cant reuse the old end, its damaged too close to the fitting to be reused, so I need the quick connect attached to a length of line so I can use a barb and 2 clamps, I guess. But Im not finding that type of connector in a repair kit at oriellys, autozone etc.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

1999 F250 Supercab, short bed, V10, 142" wheelbase, center tank (only tank)

 

I would check Car Quest or NAPA for a repair kit. You might also log onto Dorman's website to see if a repair kit is listed in their catalog. If not, you may have to adapt a GM repair kit. Dorman is a major supplier to the auto industry and aftermarket parts supplier. They own Motormite and Help that you see in the parts store chains. Their catalog coverage is quite extensive.

 

Ok so I seem to have a similar issue to those posted above. 99 F250SD with V10 (160K miles). Just a week ago it started to get suborn starting from time to time. Not a cold weather issue or damp weather issue. Sometimes starts right up, other time takes a few tries. Runs fine once it starts so I'm doubting the fuel pump is the issue. Will change the fule filter this weekend and I did recently run Seafoam through the system for the fist time. I hate to just start swapping out parts but thinking it might be the idle air control valve (IAC)after reading the other post. I have recently started working for a major auto parts retailer so I get a personal discount (YEAH!!!) so it eases the pain of doing some of these projects but not the aggravation of dealing with tracking down the issue. This AM it started fine the first time. At work to come home I had to crank it about 6 times before it started. A sticky valve would make sense but welcome your input.

Thanks

APEXDUCK

 

My experience was very similar to the other sad stories; last winter an intermittent no start -then it got below freezing and no start. Once temps warmed up it worked fine. It did this 2-3 times during the cold spell. It turned out to be the fuel pump; as a precautionary measure the fuel filter was swapped out at the same time.

 

Well after sitting dead in the drive way for a week I finally got out there and swapped out the fuel pump today. Was going to replace the filler and smaller overflow hose but no one had them. Local mechanic who happened to be at the part store told me Ford is the only place to get them and only come with the filler attached for too much money. Not leaking so back on they went. Replaced the two small vapor hoses front and rear. Man did Ford make them short and hard to attach. Took about 3 hours but started right up when done. Nice to save several hundred dollars doing it my self. Good gosh was it a dirty job. Them old hoses are just nasty. Thanks for the help.

Apexduck

 

Thanks to you guys, I got mine fixed! WhooHoo!

99 F250 V10 cranks but won't start right up like normal. A minute later it would start. This occurred several times until one day it would only "barely" run, lugging along as if the idle was turned way down.
Finally nothing! I had to pay to have it towed home! Never had a tow before! It was painful!! Wife was happier.

There "was" some fuel that spurt out of the Schrader valve, (top of the fuel rail) and pressure was even built back up again to squirt even higher on the second test but nothing like described here in this forum, squirting up, out and all over the driveway. Mine spurt about an inch then the second time, about three inches while sticking a screw driver down the valve.

Because there was some amount fuel in the rail, I was suspect about the pump being the problem and continued on to test other things like fuses, the relay and of course spark.

The path lead back to the pump and finally I crawled my sorry self under the truck to simply "listen" while having the ignition turned on and yes, I heard the "sounds of silence"! Only what I was really hearing was Simon and Garfunkel singing, "Listen to wisdom of the forum sooner, grasshopper"! (The old guys here get it)

Now that the new pump is in and running, you'd definitely hear it from inside the tank and for sure with your ear up against the tank if in a noisy environment like I was in.

I tested the bad pump motor to find it was intermittent, plugged in and tapping on it! But first I…

Started with the siphoned tank dropped, the jar top twisted off, (started it moving with a huge screwdriver and then huge channel locks) don't punch thru or crack the jar top.
Left the metal fuel lines alone, (the ½" rubber hose was easy to get the clamp off but the hose itself was a real bugger, suggest gloves for this. (you'll see why)

Reached inside the tank to feel the pump/sending unit and float, felt the plastic "can" that is the whole assembly, along with the two tabs that release the assembly from the holder that's attaching everything to the bottom, gently pried on the tabs with my finger until they clicked open, (look at a picture of one on eBay first) then lifted the assembly out.

Got out my tiny socket set to remove the pump motor/fuel filter. $100 bucks at O'reilly's. $150 for the tow!

Well, this is an F250, so at this age, from here on out, I think every repair is gonna cost $250!
But I still love my truck!

Thanks to all you guys for your help and wisdom!