Hello I have a 1949 f-1 That I am rebuilding, but I put a mustang II front end on it and plan to put a 351 with a T5 trans. Was wondering if any one has any info for me about that as far as location for my weld in engine brackets? Thanks

 

The best way to do that is to locate the engine where you want it, or where it needs to be, and then make the mounts fit the engine. You will need to get a rear sump oil pan for the 351. (You didn't say which 351 you have, but I hope it's the W.) The one you want is the pan and pickup set used for the Fox Mustang 351 swap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CESEZM It will give you the most clearance for your M-II crossmember and allow the engine to sit as low as possible. After you do all that, you can mock up the engine in place then locate your mounts and weld in place. If you do it with your trans installed, you can get all your angles correct, and make your trans mount at the same time.
Enjoy! This is the fun part!

 

fordman49

That sounds like a good project. I've got a 49F1 too, but I'm still using the OEM flathead six etc + the OEM axle.

But I have put a later Ford motor in my 58F100 but it doesn't have Mustang 2 so I'm not as experienced about that. I do know in general that some people--like me--use the "round tube type motor mount crossmember" that many aftermarket catalog people offer. Its a universal type product that is trimmed to fit your particular frame width. The one I bought even accepted the OEM type rubber motor mounts that screw into the side of the block--I've got a 460 in a 58F100. I think mine was manufactured by Transdapt. I suspect that you could? use this same type mount. But I don't know that for sure. I'm hoping someone else here who has Mustang 2 will chime in. Its possible that you'll need to use individual weld in motor mounts on each side with your Mustang 2 suspension. It may not fit with the "tube/crossmember style". I don't know the answer, but its an issue. Its my suspicion that the tube type mount might not give you enough room for your Mustang 2 type steering column joints etc. But I don't really know for sure.

Anyway I have notes regarding a part # 4819-TD with4982-TD221-351Windsor Mount Pads and its described as a ...."One-piece saddle mount for small block Ford 221-351W for frames 24"-37". The picture looks the same as mine in "principal"--just a different size etc. Mine is sturdy and I'm pleased with it. Unfortunately this is a page out of a 10year old catalog and I don't even know if they're still around--PickUps Northwest. But I'm sure someone is still selling the part etc.

But you asked about location so I may not be answering your question. I guess I'm trying to imagine what you need, and in general one wants the engine as close to the radiator as needed for mechanical fan and or elect fan, oil pan clearance, height of crankshaft is important regarding clearance as needed to allow differential pinion angle 3degrees and less, by clearance I mean if the motor is too high or too low in relationship to the crossmembers/cab floor etc between you and the differential and how high or low the differential sits that can be a problem, room at the firewall, bellhousing clearance at firewall too. And of course you'll be shifting so there's fitment issues there too.

I'm just giving you things to think about in general. And in my case i had the entire motor/tranny suspended on my engine hoist and just moved the motor around until I felt I had all the bases covered. I would kinda mock up things as needed and made sure there was room for headers etc, whatever.

Also some of the catalogs like MidFifty and Sacramento Vintage Ford and Dennis Carpenter etc sell some of these products and a study of their catalogs can be helpful. Plus you can ask them questions sometimes too.

I realize this is all kind of general, and I hope someone with your specific setup will chime in and likely will.

Good luck Tom

 

When you do your fitup (prior to welding) include the exhaust manifolds/headers that you think that you will run since they can be a clearance issue also. I have not done a 351w in a bonusbuilt. Perhaps others can chime in with suggestions/experience.

 

Hey guys I will be running a 351 out of a 96 bronco because I wanted a rollor ready engine. I think that I am going to use shorty headers cause I think I am going to have a lots of clearance problems if I don't. As far as the trans crossmember I bought a one for a fox body mustang that I think will work good I will have to fab some mounting brackets that will be welded in. This way if I have to pull the tran, the member will drop out by just unbolting two bolts.

Now going back to the engine 52Mec had some info on the oil pan. I will need to by one cause I bought me a short block 96 351. I am planning to make 400 Hp. it will be fun to drive.

hoped up 351 + T5 standard trans + 9in rear end 370 gears with posi track= fun fun fun

Thanks for the info Im sure glad I meet ya'll

 

Tom and Bill both make excellent points. Before doing any welding, have all your parts needed and a plan figured out. The crossmember mount Tom talked about won't work with the M-II setup. It would go in the same place as the M-II unit. There's really only one place the engine can go, and that's straddling the crossmember. Everything else will need to be fabbed around that. Like Bill said, have your exhaust and steering parts you're going to use mocked up with everything else, because your engine mounts will likely need to work in conjunction with those parts. That includes your trans and clutch linkage, as well. It'll take some some work, but the best way to figure out what you need is to jump in with both feet and go to work. It sounds like a real fun project. Good luck.

 

49 Willard was right on! If you still have the stock steering box in your truck, you are going to have MAJOR exhaust space issues on the drivers side depending on where your motor mounts are and what type they are.

I realize the 351W and my FE390 are very different beasts (I love your choice of drive train BTW) but I had to use a reinforced, under engine type of engine mount system and there was NO room for headers OR exhaust unless I used a stock manifold and put it on backwards (pointing the outlet forward) then looped the exhaust pipe forward, down and back. That was the original set up and it was a real mess.

I discovered I only had a 5"x5" box to run exhaust between the motor mounts,the stock steering box, frame and engine. I ended up having to go "over the frame" with custom made ($1700) headers, which negated use of the TCI MII front end I had purchased because the shock towers would have gone where the headers now were. End result was a rebuild of the stock front end (which I am VERY happy with BTW).

Exhaust is going to be your biggest challenge. Here are three pics. One of the original set up with the curved exhaust - note where it lies in conjunction with the oil filter - think changing that would be fun?. Second are some side block to frame measurements, and lastly the final set up (note the remote oli filter mounter in front of the radiator) - just as food for thought. Good luck!

 

So Julie on that last pic what kind of radiator did you get to fit in you f-1? Is it out of another vehical or did you order it? These is all things that I need for my truck. The engine in the last pic is really sweet! So the headers had to dump out on the outside of the frame how did that work for you with the inter fender?

Thanks Hector

 

The stock gear box is longe gone but I plan to relocate the steering colum as for as the fire wall. Hey Julie what kind of radiator did you use? Is it out of another vehical or did you order it? On you exhast how did the headers work for you being that they dump out on the outside of the frame. I'm sure you had to do some work to the inner fender.

Thanks for the info
Hector

 

The 351 and 390 are completely different engines, and as such, there's a lot more room on the sides for exhaust with the small block. Even with the stock steering, a 302/351w will have plenty of room to run the pipes beside the column and box. Swapping to a Mustang II front suspension allows for even more room there, as it eliminates the stock steering box and replaces it with a rack and pinion unit ahead of the crossmember. The only thing you have to consider is steering linkage from the column to the rack, and how to route it through and around the headers and motor mount.

 

Wow that's a gorgeous motor Julie.

Tom