1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

bed flooring

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  #16  
Old 10-26-2009, 11:53 AM
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I had a buddy of mine just use a sheet of treated plywood. we stained it a dark red and cleared it then bolted bed strippes over top without cutting it into planks. It actually came out really good it just takes some time finding the right place to drill for your strippes.
 
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:56 PM
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I do not recommend it but....

When I was in high school, back when a nice 54 F100 could be had for under $400, my buddy bartered a 54 F-100 from a farmer he worked for during the summers. Someone had poured about 2 inches on concrete in the bed. Made it ride nice but cut into the acceleration. We busted it out and the underlying wood was not that bad. I think he did throw a sheet of marine grade plywood in there to keep the empties from falling out.
I bought my 55 soon after that (for $200) and we had more fun tearing around in those old trucks.
 
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Old 10-26-2009, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Nojive55
Someone had poured about 2 inches on concrete in the bed.
Yikes! Nothing like adding a 1000lbs and killing gas milage, lol
 
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Old 10-26-2009, 03:22 PM
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I used the bed floor and front panel from a 2005 GMC (it was a freebie);


Gallery;
1949 Ford F1 4x2 - Bed stuff

I've heard tales of someone using the aluminum planks from bleachers as bed flooring

Bobby
 
  #20  
Old 10-26-2009, 03:40 PM
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As some of the others on here have done, I used the floor skin from a pickup to redo the floor inside my panel. I welded mine in. I just replaced the plywood floor of my utility trailer as well but bolted it in for this application.
 
  #21  
Old 10-26-2009, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Nojive55
When I was in high school, back when a nice 54 F100 could be had for under $400, my buddy bartered a 54 F-100 from a farmer he worked for during the summers. Someone had poured about 2 inches on concrete in the bed. Made it ride nice but cut into the acceleration. We busted it out and the underlying wood was not that bad. I think he did throw a sheet of marine grade plywood in there to keep the empties from falling out.
I bought my 55 soon after that (for $200) and we had more fun tearing around in those old trucks.

That's just to make sure it would go in the snow!
 
  #22  
Old 10-27-2009, 11:24 AM
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Found this pick on Classic Trucks website. I think it's a little over the top, but looks very professional.
 
  #23  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 53rat
Found this pick on Classic Trucks website. I think it's a little over the top, but looks very professional.
That truck must have very wide tires judging by the wheel tubs, did it say what was used for the flooring, looks kind of like laminate flooring
 
  #24  
Old 10-27-2009, 12:59 PM
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Facts and Figuars: Bed: stock w/ curly birch floor by Mike Migora

Thats all it says. BUt you can read the article here: 1955 Ford F100 - Classic Trucks Magazine
 
  #25  
Old 10-27-2009, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 53rat
Facts and Figuars: Bed: stock w/ curly birch floor by Mike Migora

Thats all it says. BUt you can read the article here: 1955 Ford F100 - Classic Trucks Magazine
Ya, it's a very well done effie but the colour kind of reminds mepea soup,not my favourite, thanks for posting that link.
 
  #26  
Old 10-27-2009, 11:16 PM
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I used Trex in my '54, it's tough stuff and is even the right width. (Specifically the Trex Brasilia stuff the company made some very bad batches of - but they were very generous with replacing it, so now I have LOTS of it!)

It ain't pretty, but neither is the black primer "paint job", so it all works out just fine...
 
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:03 PM
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This is something I've been toying with, Lpe wood or in other words Brazilian walnut. This wood has no knots and very dense. I've used it a number of times when I use to design decks. Very low maintained and 30yr. rot life.
 
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HD74
This is something I've been toying with, Lpe wood or in other words Brazilian walnut. This wood has no knots and very dense. I've used it a number of times when I use to design decks. Very low maintained and 30yr. rot life.
Yep, Lpe wood is a term I've been hearing a lot at the Woodie shows I've been going to. And for a Woodie not only does it have to with stand the elements it also has to be structly strong.
 
  #29  
Old 10-28-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ken selvy
Check my gallery , I used synthetic redwood , also heavier for better traction , wont fade and waterproof , $150 plus hardware at home depot , just a thought but I get a lot of compliments .
Haven't seen the "synthetic redwood". Is that the same as the Trex-type decking?
 
  #30  
Old 10-28-2009, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 53rat
Yep, Lpe wood is a term I've been hearing a lot at the Woodie shows I've been going to. And for a Woodie not only does it have to with stand the elements it also has to be structly strong.
I just talked to a freelance carpenter I use for odd jobs. I asked him about the possibility of using some type of wood other than Red Oak for a bed floor. He suggested Ipe, said that is what "everyone" is using these days (not sure what that meant). We have it for our back deck and it is indeed some durable stuff. Looks pretty good too, and you can stain it with oil to make it darker. No need for any coating.

I also considered Teak, as our outdoor furniture is made from this, but he thought this would be mighty expensive.

The only issue is that Ipe is generally sold for decking, and thus in planks that measure 5.5" wide by 1.25" thick. I believe the stock bed planks are closer to 6.25" wide by 0.75" thick but mine are so rotted it is tough to measure them. Does anyone know the dimensions?

Gustave
 


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