pick up coil gone bad, stuck valve, bent push rod?
#121
01-26-2010, 12:50 PM
Well you might find something when you take it apart , if the intake was leaking thats a problem right there , we talked about that before & you said there were no leaks , when you pull you pull the intake look at the gasket real good , have you pressure tested the cooling system for leaks & dos it hold pressure ...Lew
#122
01-26-2010, 12:54 PM
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no, i don't have pressure tester. i wish i did. when i said earlier there weren't any leaks. well i didnt' think it was a leak. i just thought it was the top radiator hose leaking around the bottom where it connect to t-stat housing. well that wasn't it. so it must be leaking around the intake or something.
#127
01-26-2010, 01:29 PM
#129
01-26-2010, 01:58 PM
When you take the valve cover off and put the bleed down tool on the rocker you should be able to bleed the lifter down. If you can not bleed the lifter down then the push rod is too long.
Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150
Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:
1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.
3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust
No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust
No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust
No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust
4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:
No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust
No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust
No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust
No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
/
Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150
Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:
1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.
3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust
No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust
No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust
No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust
4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:
No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust
No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust
No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust
No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
/
#131
01-26-2010, 02:36 PM
When you take the valve cover off and put the bleed down tool on the rocker you should be able to bleed the lifter down. If you can not bleed the lifter down then the push rod is too long.
Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150
Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:
1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.
3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust
No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust
No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust
No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust
4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:
No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust
No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust
No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust
No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
/
Collapsed Tappet Gap = Allowable .075-.175, Desired .100-.150
Here is how the book says to do it.
To determine whether a shorter or a longer push rod is necessary, perform the following check:
1. Install an auxiliary starter switch. Crank the engine (6007) with the ignition switch in OFF until the No. 1 piston (6108) is on TDC after the compression stroke.
2. With the crankshaft (6303) in the positions designated in the following Steps 3, 4 and 5, position the hydraulic tappet compressor Tappet Bleed Down Wrench T71P-6513-B on the rocker arm (6564). Slowly apply pressure to bleed down the hydraulic valve tappet until the plunger is completely bottomed. Hold the valve tappet in this position and check the available clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip with a feeler gauge. If the clearance is less than specifications, install a shorter push rod. If the clearance is greater than specifications, install a longer push rod.
3. With the No. 1 piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (Position No. 1), check clearances on the following valves:
No. 1 Intake No. 1 Exhaust
No. 3 Intake No. 4 Exhaust
No. 7 Intake No. 5 Exhaust
No. 8 Intake No. 8 Exhaust
4. After checking the clearance on these intake valves and exhaust valves, rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees to Position No. 2, then check the following valves:
No. 2 Intake No. 2 Exhaust
No. 4 Intake No. 3 Exhaust
No. 5 Intake No. 6 Exhaust
No. 6 Intake No. 7 Exhaust
/
#132
01-26-2010, 09:28 PM
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well did everything tonite. push rods are good. i was getting ready to start taking everything apart until we noticed the plugs are all black now. they wasn't like that. so we are going to look into some more stuff tomorrow night, friend of mine who is a good mechanic is going to ask around tomorrow and dig some stuff up. so i don't know. we'll see
#133
01-27-2010, 07:46 AM
I know you don't want to hear this, but the ECM may be bad! I've seen the fuel control circuits go haywire on Fords quite a few times. Can you still try that 302 ECM you had before? Since you fixed the wiring problem you had, maybe you just worked your way through to another problem. 
However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
#134
01-27-2010, 07:53 AM
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I know you don't want to hear this, but the ECM may be bad! I've seen the fuel control circuits go haywire on Fords quite a few times. Can you still try that 302 ECM you had before? Since you fixed the wiring problem you had, maybe you just worked your way through to another problem. However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
However, low coolant level could cause the same rich condition... I sure wish you were closer! I have some bodywork we could trade!
#135
01-27-2010, 08:02 AM
Your truck's an '87, right? You really don't want to mess with a newer model ECM... ABS & other speed sensors are involved, which make for a real problem. I'd stick with model specific as close as possible. '87-91 Non-E4OD. There are extra circuits starting in '92 because they did away with speedometer cables & went w/ sensors.