Just bought my 54 f100 from cleveland, tn last weekend. It is in great shape. Looks like an older restoration, but I have a few questions. It has been switched over to 12V. I have an electrical issue, brake issue, and oil issue.
1. Electrical- original wiring. Often when I turn the headlight switch off it sparks! Any help would greatly be appreciated.
2. Brakes- the master cylinder is leaky, it pulls hard right, and brakes stick after sitting overnight. I want to get rid of the hard right pull and fix the brakes sticking every morning.
3. Oil issue- I climbed underneath to check out the master cylinder and see where the brake light wires ran to and noticed there was oil leakage. I have had the truck 6 days and still have not had a spot in the driveway. Could this be an old leak?
Thanks in advance for the help.
I've searched the forum every day for the past 3 days and can't come up with anything.

 

They are supposed to do that so you can tell if they are working, just kidding. Change the switch as a start.

Sorry, but you are going to have to replace the master cylinder, all the wheel cylinders, and the brake shoes and springs and get the drums turned. Kits are usually false economy and leak. (IMO)

Spray with degreaser, let soak, drive to wand style car wash, wash infected area, and observe for a week.

 

Welcome to FTE! Looks like you found yourself a good truck to start with!
That will help keep you motivated,..at least you will be driving it in very short order.

How long do you think the truck has been sitting? Any spider/cobwebs ??

Since it is new to you,but still an Old truck,..it sure wouldn't hurt to put it up on jack-stands,remove all the wheels/drums and do a thorough brake inspection.Pull back the wheel cylinder boots and look for leaks,contaminated shoes (brake fluid) and check all the rubber hoses and steel lines. If it has an original Master cylinder,and it's leaking,you may want to upgrade to a dual master cylinder.Some leaks may not become apparent until you get a good master cylinder and can build up some pressure.
Might just be a loose wire connection causing sparks at the lite swx...give it a good look,may have to stick your head under the dash and operate swx for a spark-shower...Cheap Plastic Sunglasses may come in handy ... LoL!
Soak with Degreaser like OldF1 mentioned to start tracking down the leak...sure it's not brake-fluid leaking? Good Luck! You have a Great start!

 

Welcome to the forum. First thing I would do is head to the carwash and pressure wash the underhood and running gear. That will take care of the old leaks so you can wait for the new leaks. It's an old Ford truck, your wait for new leaks should be brief. There may be some good news on the brake parts. I found them locally at a very reasonable cost. Not much you don't have to buy from a specialty F100 vendor, but many brake parts fit a lot of different years so you can get them quick if they are not in stock. At least you still could a few years ago. Where are you at in AL?

 

Hi and Welcome to FTE:

1. and 2 have been covered. With the 12 volt you want to replace the Headlight switch with a 56 switch so the dash lights dim properly.

The oil problem may actually be brake fluid being blown back from a leaky master cylinder, or leaking connector close to the cylinder that sends fluid to the side that is not breaking....Go out and fill up your master cylinder and pump yout brakes...You'll probably get a puddle...just food for thought. When do oil leaks stop? When you are out of oil! (or brake fluid if that is the case).



Ps Searched and can't find anything - why should yoube any different than the rest of us? Tee hee. Wait until you want to post pictures!

 

Excellent information. Thanks for your help. I'm located in Huntsville, AL

 

Welcome to F T E

 

So today on the way home from work the brake peddle dropped to the floor. Good thing I only work 4 miles from home and its back roads all the way! Using the e-brake as a primary is no way to go though. I spent all afternoon checking autozone and advanced auto parts, o'reilly's and napa. All of them have to order the master cylinder, which is leaking onto my driveway now, and the wheel cylinders.
Does anyone know what the chances of that the lines are still in good shape? If not where can I find some?
Thanks. I still love this truck

 

You have a few choices for brake line replacement. I like to buy brakeline in bulk rolls of 25 foot. Bend and cut to exact length. You need to know how to double flare the ends. That is something best learned by demonstration. You can buy or rent a flare kit and tubing cutter from Autozone. Perhaps somebody there can explain how to double flare. I know people will laugh when I suggest you get mechanic training at Autozone. Explore other technical training options if possible.

Second choice is to buy shorter lengths of line that come with the ends already installed. Couple them together with unions. It's perfectly safe, but I don't like this method because it looks like a patch job.

I asked where you lived because I am at Fort Rucker at the moment.

 

If the wheel cylinders and master are that bad I would definately replace all the rubber flex lines too. The hard lines may be gooped up or rusty inside but if you flush them out, they may be ok.

Best plan is to do the master cylinder first then move "down hill." Once you have hydraulic pressure, you can use it to flush the lines to get them clean, then install the new brake cylinders. Once you get the system closed back up, you can pressure test it.

I took mine up to the local high school one saturday afternoon and ran the truck up to about 40 then stomped on the brakes - a number of times - forward, and in reverse. I ended up blowing out a flex hose in the back, but that's because the PO had installed a grease gun hose in stead of a "regulation " brake line. Better under controlled tesat conditions than on the freeway one day!!!!

Make sure your parking brake is properly adjusted and working well before you test the regular brakes at speed.

 

Okay so I figured since I was going to be under the truck and I've found a little extra jingle for parts that I would go ahead and replace the lines, all wheel cylinders, hoses, and master cylinder as well as get new shoes and turn the drums. While removing the old brake parts yesterday I discovered that apparently only the right front brake was engaging. The brake shoes on the passenger front wheel were down to bare metal and the drum was filled with pieces of what was once the the pad! Ouch...its amazing that it stopped to begin with. BTW PO said the brakes had been recently rebuilt...I guess recently to him means in the last 10 years! Oh well, going to have "new" brakes when its all said and done!

 

You are off to a good start. When working with a 50 year old vehicle, best to just expect nothing is right, and assume you need everything until your careful inspection proves otherwise. Especially on the safety items. "Rebuilt" is typically an overused word in many sellers vocabulary. Sometimes it's dishonesty, but often it's just ignorance. A couple new gaskets and a can of spray paint is a rebuild if you don't know what you are looking at.

You've proven you can't trust what you were told. So you can assume that as soon as the brakes are fixed, the steering and suspension will catastrophically fail. You've got it up on jackstands. Now sounds like a good time to make sure you and your passengers are going to be safe.