I went part way through his site and noticed a $10 charge is added on for shipping, so it looks
like this $11.21 part becomes a $21.21 part.
Were you able to purchase it without paying the added on shipping? Did i need to go farther on
his site to get the price to drop back to $11.21 ?

Thank you for the information.

 

The parts guy at the local Ford dealer charged me 12 bucks plus a buck tax. He has always given me wholesale pricing. The list price is $20.76 + tax.

Ask your local dealer for best possible price. Can't hurt. That is how I started getting wholesale pricing.

 

Im am a Ford technician that has done many of these recalls.
If you think your vehicle needs the recall call your local dealer and have them run an OASIS. It will tell you if the recall is still open or not.
Ford will reimberse you for the cam sensor recall 07S57 if yours went out and you had to replace it. As far as the cruise deactivation switch recall 09S09 it is a very quick and easy process of checking your switch on the master cylinder to see if it's leaking or not. If it's not leaking we install a fused jumper harness. If it is leaking we replace the switch and harness.As far as flashing PCM with out authorization. It's like this, if your truck is under warranty and there is a TSB for your concern to reflash the PCM we will do it to fix your concern. It is not our fault if your aftermarket programmer does not communicate with the PCM anymore.Some dealers will not evem perform warranty work on a truck with a programmer on it. I hate the bad rap us dealers get, we are not all bad.

 

I just got the 2nd notice yesterday on this.. I guess my truck is on the list..
I guess the stealership must want to make some $$ off this..

 

The dealer does not make much money at all on these recalls.
The technician gets paid 12 minutes to do this.

 

1st the "Stealership" did not send you the letter. Ford did.
2nd they would prefer that your VEHICLE NOT BURN UP!!!
and possibly your garage/ home with you inside also.

 

Ok your right.. I just looked again.. The 1st recall was from ford..
The other recall was sent from vista ford about the recall. That's where i got the stealership info from.

And it's nice of them to offer to buy my paid off truck back and get me in to a nice 2012 F250SD for $700 a month..

 

Thats why my ODBII port had two shiny brass padlocks bolted through two spots on it. No way to plug into it with them there

 

Such a nice idea.

YES; I will add an OBDII lock to my van this week.

.

 

Kold-Fire - Lotus Elise, Exige, and Evora Performance ECM Tuning Products

Stewart

 

pics....terribly exciting...I know.

If only the recall had also fixed the cruise control which doesnt work properly anyway.

 

Weird thing is that when they did this to my 2002 F250 Lariete, the cruise stoped working. It worked before I took it in to have this done, then when done I noticed a few days later it wasnt working anymore. GURRRR

 

I forgot about this.
Thankfully it does not get a lot of miles.

I am going to tape the recall to the dash as a reminder to do ASAP.

.

 

Has anyone found the official Ford instructions on how to install the new switch and harness? I can figure this out, but the zip tie is used to shorten the harness (as seen in the pix above) and I thought it would be helpful to know how that was done, at least.

thanks!

 

Unless you have an older recall repair kit already on hand that looks exactly like Lex2002's pics above, don't go by the pics above. Those pics show an interim recall fix, which was simply to add in a universal fused jumper harness (hereinafter "UFJH"). A newer recall fix part was released subsequent to the replacement harness shown above, and calls for replacing the root cause of the problem, the speed control deactivation switch... not just fusing it if it fails.

The newer recall repair kit doesn't have those clumsy and cumbersome weather jacketed fuses and fuse holders that are taped shut on the UFJH. The newer harness is made of fusible links instead, and is much shorter in length. The newer kit calls for replacing the switch that screws into the master cylinder, which is not only a good idea, as the membrane inside the old switch is vulnerable to tear failures, which allows brake fluid to dead short the constant hot contacts that leads to fires... it is also required with the new shorter harness with fusible links, as only then will the connectors match up.

Because of the difference in connectors, you can't mess it up. You may not even need a zip tie with the new kit (it still comes with one) but it should be self evident where to place the zip tie if a need becomes apparent. The idea is to not permit the harness to come in contact with anything that will rub it or burn it. If you have an engine block heater, the harness to that passes directly under where the harness to the speed control deactivation switch (hereinafter SCDS) turns down, so you could zip any excess to that... but again, you shouldn't have much excess if you work with the latest recall kit that includes a new SCDS instead of just a bulky UFJH that is shown in the pics above.

With the new kit, just add a few drops of Dot 3 brake fluid to the threaded port of the new SCDS switch, and be prepared to install it immediately following the removal of the old SCDS switch, to minimize brake fluid loss out of the system. If you DON'T see brake fluid dripping out of the port where you removed the old SCDS, then that is a problem, so don't worry about any dripping, as dripping is expected. That's why you want to have the new switch all prepped (lubricated with Dot 3 fluid) and ready to install before removing the old switch.

The harness is plug and play. You might use a bit of silicone grease around the perimeter of each connector shell where they mate (but not in the pin contact field) in order to seal out the elements. Apart from that, it is a fairly simple install.


Kit Part numbers:


Red bag: Motorcraft # SW-6350


or, if you like blue,


Blue bag: Ford Part # 1L1Z-9F924-AA