Well, Merry Christmas to you.

 

Well I finally got off my but and did something to my truck. Christmas, and some nasty a-s cold bug laid me low for most of January. I started slow by finishing of the hardkase dual exhaust install.

 

Then I did a little refurbishing on the spare tire mount on the side of the box.

 

I'm doing the brakes now. I picked up a hurst line-lock kit today. I have to run new brake lines in the front.

I came upon a dilemma with the proportioning valve. I wanted a stock replacement proportioning valve, but the parts guy at my local lordco said they're not making them anymore... I know this isn't really true, but I didn't want to argue with him. Getting a replacement prop valve shipped to me is a pain in the a$$ because I live in Canada.

I decided to clean up the old prop valve. My big issue with the old proportioning valve was that all of the brake line fittings were siezed in place on it. Luckily I just recently discovered the holy grail of penetrating oils on another forum, its a home brew concoction of tranny fluid and acetone (50/50 mix). I got all my fittings removed from the prop valve and cleaned it up a bit. I made myself a little diagram so I can remember what goes where on this proportioning valve. I thought I'd post it for anyone else that may be muddling through brakes on one of these trucks.

 

just jumping in here without reading through by why not run a mechanical line lok?
i run a swagelok. leave it on all day. im in victoria and ordered it to my local shop

 

You know I just didn't think of going mechanical. Not a bad suggestion.

 

Here's where I found the info on different penetrating oils. It's not a forum after all. Thought I'd put the link up here. There is a comparison of penetrating oils in the middle of the web page that I found interesting.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...tuck_fasteners

 

i have them in both my trucks as i run rear discs in them both with d70's. Hold brake on ,twist the valve and it will hold for about a week i say on any hill.
One i ordered in local for like $70 the other ebay for like $30.
ill get pics of install and part #s i got saved..

 

round jaw vice grips always work for me. little heat if stubborn. sharp grip new ones work best

 

easy install in this cover. run 2 ,90 degree fittings then back out to master cylinder/rear brakes.



part # b-42f2

 

Good luck with your project. That will be a sweet ride when you finish.

 

I hadn't heard of the nickel copper iron alloy brake line material that is available. It is sold under the name NiCopp. This stuff is really easy to bend. I can use my hands for most of the bends, make small adjustments, fix my mistakes. Easy as pie. I thought I only had steel or stainless steel lines to choose from. I was a little intimidated by the task of forming up all new brake lines by hand until the parts guy sold me a coil of NiCopp. Another benefit is that this stuff doesn't rust-- a real bonus where I live.

 

OK I've got a couple of dumby tech questions to ask here. Perhaps someone will have some information that can help me out here. My first question is about the line lock. I have all the brake lines plumbed and bled. I am stumped in terms of finding an electrical supply for the hurst line lock. I have been looking at the wiring diagram for my truck for the propper power supply for the line lock. I gather I am looking for the auxilliary ignition circuit off of the key switch, but can't seem to find the right colored wire. I bet there are a bunch of guys out there with lots of experience with auto-electric tech stuff. Hence my qualifying this question as a dumby tech type of question.

(BTW 73 Ford Guy, I liked your idea of the mechanical line lock better, but I already tore into the packaging on my shiny new Hurst line lock... and it comes with a shiny red light)

 

Hey guys,

I read an interesting post on rocker arm studs here (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arm-studs.html).

I acquired 2 D0VE - C bare heads a while ago.

I purchased a set of roller tipped rockers comp cams p/n 1411-16 for 125 bux.


The stock rocker arm studs are not deep enough in the threads for the poly locks (comp p/n 4601-16) ($55) I have for these rockers.


I did a little digging in the ARP catalogue and compared the specs on ARPs' replacement rocker studs against some measurements on the stock rocker studs.. I think the ARP 134-7104 studs or the 100-7101 rocker studs are very similar. New ARP studs are likely to run me about 75 bux. Hmmm. Has anyone else used magnum roller tipped rockers on their 460 ford? Any problems with valve-rocker geometry fitment? I suspect I will be fidgeting with rod length after I get the stud issue sorted out.

 

Haha was it like Christmas. Btw I got my second swagelok on eBay for like $30 shipped if u wanna add another to front rear or w/e.

As for aux Power there's a heavy like 1/4" black with little green stripe wire in mine I tapped into and ran to an aux fuse box.
Maybe someone has better idea but mine works.
Or maybe run a relay from battery to aux fuse box with a ignition power trigger wire. Installing an extra fuse box sure is handy.