$78 + free shipping all day long on Ebay.
*Heads up!*
Make sure you get one with the right C-C distance for your application.
The one pictured above is 8 1/4" from a '91-'92 Taurus or Sable.

 

Thanks for the write up plus very helpful pictures. rep points awarded

 

i was debating wether to get the 3g alt or 1g 100 amp alt. I can get the 1g for about $60 new. What do ya think?

 

I did the upgrade to get rid of those spade connectors in the back with the bonus of the upgraded alternator. I would look at going with the 3g as the upgrade also adds a heavier wire going to the battery - something that the factory wires might not be able to put up with. The 3g also puts out 30 more amps.

In the long run, it was a little more work, but was cheaper than $60.

The only unexpected surprise was the choke issue that came up, but that was dealt with by running a wire from the batt side of the coil to the choke. This is not an issue if you are fuel injected.

 

Thanks for the write up, this mod's on my to do list for my Supercab. I'm guessing the factory "Charge" gauge quit working?

 

I think it still works, I never really paid attention to it, I would only see small movement from the needle with the old one anyway.

 

So what if you have the votage regulator on the fender wall? Is that considered a 1G? Can someone please explain how to get around, or delete it, so those of us with this type of setup can do this mod?

 

That is the 1G, I never looked into it that much, but there are a lot of sites and forums which have dealt with it. I do not know if there is anything here.

 

You can pretty much find anything you need to know about Ford alternators here:

Ford Fuel Injection Alternator Files

 

OK, This appears to be the answer to the 1G to 3G mod:

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts...p?idproduct=75

 

It says you need to use that with their harness, is that going to be a problem?

 

I've got to think it would be cheaper, and I know it would be just as easy, to pick up a 2G internally regulated harness from a boneyard and switch to the internal regulator on the 3G. Either way you need to run a fused heavy gauge wire from the charging post to the battery. and with very minor modiifcation to the 2G harness everything including the ammeter works fine.

 

I have seen write ups on how to do it at home on other sites on the web. I think I saw one on FSB.

 

Here's how to modify the 2G internally regulated harness to run the 3G quoted from an earlier post. This is in addition to running the heavy gauge fused charging wire previously discussed.

"get a good 2G/internal regulator alternator harness. Then disconnect your battery ground. Hook the top end up as normal...plug it into the harness, and bolt the fusible link to the starter solenoid. On the alternator end, cut the large three wire plug that goes into the 2G alternator. Cap and seal the ends of the two black/orange stripe wires. Crimp a blue female connector to the white/black stripe wire and slide it onto the single male terminal in the side of the 3G case. Plug the regulator harness into the regulator as normal."

 

That one is for a 2g though, he needs to figure out a 1g wiring set up.