1967 F-100 project
#841
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Posts: 2,694
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The problem with unistrut nuts and bolts, is that they are all mild steel, grade 3 at best, and coarse thread... Most engieers recommend grade 8 bolts and nuts for frame work,no lock washers, and only ,flat washers, also grade 8 and torque to hold them tight.. Also, fine thread.. Kind of like the U bolts on your axles... high nuts do not hurt a thing... if you are going to take a step, take a whole step amigo, and do it to the max.. You know that Caterpillar does not use any lock washers, only torque to hold things together. My thinking is that uni strut, is not meant to go down the road, but to be stationary in construction applications..
Baja
Baja
#842
The problem with unistrut nuts and bolts, is that they are all mild steel, grade 3 at best, and coarse thread... Most engieers recommend grade 8 bolts and nuts for frame work,no lock washers, and only ,flat washers, also grade 8 and torque to hold them tight.. Also, fine thread.. Kind of like the U bolts on your axles... high nuts do not hurt a thing... if you are going to take a step, take a whole step amigo, and do it to the max.. You know that Caterpillar does not use any lock washers, only torque to hold things together. My thinking is that uni strut, is not meant to go down the road, but to be stationary in construction applications..
Baja
Baja
You are probably correct they may not be the best solution for this use, but I would like to mention a couple of things. They are available in 316 stainless; that's not the same as grade 8, but also not mild steel. No fine thread that I see, so agree there.
As far as stationary vs going down the road, I've used them on my aux tanks on motorcycles as mentioned above and I don't ride only on nice days or the best roads. That setup has been to Alaska and everywhere else in the US and western Canada and have held up well.
It was just a suggestion in the mix of other ideas and as there is availability at the plant to obtain a couple and see if they'll work, it doesn't cost anything to look. I know in my case I'll do something that maybe isn't optimal but it will give me an idea that is.
I've followed this build from the beginning and I've learned that Pat will make the best decision and do the job right. I think the rest of us can just put out ideas to see if something will lead to whatever is the best solution.
#843
I grabbed a few from the electricians, and, after looking at them, came to the same conclusion that Baja stated. I'm using grade 8 bolts now, and, realized that I should probably stay with those. But, it was an interesting suggestion, Jim! I may keep these in mind for other things on the truck!
#844
I grabbed a few from the electricians, and, after looking at them, came to the same conclusion that Baja stated. I'm using grade 8 bolts now, and, realized that I should probably stay with those. But, it was an interesting suggestion, Jim! I may keep these in mind for other things on the truck!
#846
#847
Redneck solution: Weld a 3/16" or 1/4" rod to the side of the nut, bend the rod so you can hold the nut in place and prevent the nut from rotating. The hole to insert the nut can be just big enough for the nut to fit through. You will be partially annealing the nut when you weld the rod to it. I don't know if you need a grade 8 bolt and nut? A failure would probably occur with the bolt head tearing out the sheet metal before a thread failure? Maybe?
#848
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Posts: 2,694
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I trust most of the suggestions I have gotten, and or found on this forum. None have been bad, or erroneous. All have been helpful. Thank you Gavin for one of the most practical solutions, to a common problem. I am absolutely sure, that any fine thread nut, especially a 'high' nut, will do the trick, grade 8, 5, or even a 3, when properly torqued. I understand that one of the reasons that the factory went to rivets, as opposed to bolts, is exactly what Gavin said about the bolt failing, before the frame. Frames are designed to flex, twist, and bend a little, and that movement can loosen a bold & nut.
Now, as to the unistrut, I have used it plenty of times, on all sorts of applications, most of it donated by Nuclear Power, for various projects. None has ever failed,nor do I ever expect it to.
Goood luck Pat...
Baja
Now, as to the unistrut, I have used it plenty of times, on all sorts of applications, most of it donated by Nuclear Power, for various projects. None has ever failed,nor do I ever expect it to.
Goood luck Pat...
Baja
#850
But on the other hand, that's part of the fun in watching and following along on build threads. Especially favorite ones like yours. Seeing tricks that the owner of the rig come up with and use. And also if something triggers the ol' memory banks behind my "wee beady eyes" it's fun to help out.
#854
#855