I talked with Ford Racing guys about the 460. Their recommendation was to run one of two setups. Either go the the L & L Motor Mounts or use turnbuckles with the stock mounts. I went with the L & Ls. There are some others out there recommending other mounts. I am just passing along what the Ford racing guys had to say.

As far as the traction bars, 4 links, etc. I'd like to hear the setups some of the other guys are running, cause I'd like to take my truck down to the track once in awhile.

 

I ran slapper bars(homemade caltracs) for 5 years and they worked fine. I only went with the ladder bars after I installed a 514. I think that if the intended purpose is to take the truck to the track once or twice a year, I would not spend the money on anything full race like 4 link. I would get caltracs or lakewood slapper bars and call it a day.

 

As I see it and from all the input, I will have to agree with 75F350, this truck will see very little track time if not at all. It's just not my thing. The engine was dino tested at 528 hp at 4700 rpm and 665 tq at 3600 rpm. It will be as I said earlier only a street truck with show quality. The motor mounts, I lean towards Autofab's style and looks; although their price is a little high, with maybe the turn buckle, an overhauled C6 with a 2500 plus stall as recommended by the engine builders for street use. Maybe I need input on that one. The rear end is a 3.50 ratio 9" with 31's and I like the idea of a limited slip since it will be all street use. The ratio will probably change when the limited slip is added. The use of traction bars will be on the list as a safety item as well since I plan to keep the leaf springs. Front disc brakes will be upgraded as well. The back brakes are still in planning stage. Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it, Tom

 

You are starting to get somewhere now that there is a goal and an intention. Usually open ended questions result in others dreams of what they would like, which os not a bad thing, but can send one off into another direction.
You AutoFab engine mounts will be fine by themselves, you wont have to put an old ugly turn buckle in your nice looking engine bay. Really no way to make that look clean. I have seen some attempts at a clean install, and I have seen chain and cable, and nothing looks quite right, when in reality the engine reall wont be trying to rip the mount off. Besides, the mount that you have selected will handle far more than you are gonna give it.
YOu have quite impressive numbers and a gob of torque. Dyno showed that kind of torque at 3600 huh? Wow.
Your converter seems to be about right as long as it is a quality converter and can handle the torque or you will just drive right through it and it may just slip. You can bet that your converter will flash well over 2500 and you can probably expect in excess of 3000 rpm's. Thats why a good quality converter is a must.
You gear ratio is interesting, and may not provide the great launches I think you may have expectations of. Its much more difficult to get a vehicle to "hook up" with numerically lower gears in the back. Usually the tires blow off, and it becomes difficult to get traction agin since the tires have developed such speed. One has to pedal, or get out of the gas for too long to get the tires to re-gain traction again. Numerically higher gears can really be impressive for those times when the skinny pedal needs to go to the floor. I prefer a ton of gear. Used to run N-50 M&H racemasters with 4.88 gears. Thats only about a 28" tire at race pressures.
Id be interested to see how long the engine makes decent power, because thats gonna determine the final ratio selection. See, you are not going to be shifting the engine at 3500 rpm right? Of course not. You will want to buzz this thing until you can shift into the next gear and the rpm drops right into the sweet spot and acceleration is still achieved. Other wise you make a bunch of noise, and maybe the tires smoke up, but you can be sure that you will probably be looking at some tailights. Thats not cool. You have enough power to do what it is that you want, but it is gonna take some time and a little trial and error to find out where the sweet area is, and how to develop a combo to maintian that.
Sounds as though you have a baseline, so run it. When something lets you know that it needs some attention, then address the problem. I can assure you that it will be traction, so find out what is causing the problem and find a solution.
Kind of what building is all about.

Back brakes? Think disc brake upgrade. They are light, they dont share the same parasitic losses of the drum brake, they do not require adjustment, and stop better than your small drums ever will. They can be cheap real cheap to do yourself, so dont rule that out.
I look forward to seeing this thing come to life.
Any pics of the engine?

 

75F350, now this is the feedback that really gets the mind working. GREAT comments! The engine dyno sheets show 665 tq starting @ 3600 and slowly drops to 549 @ 5000. This was on 93 pump gas with a demon 850. Ever since I retired several years ago I wanted a bad*ss big engine in my restored truck that I did buy new back in 79. Maybe I got more than I can handle, but wow, is it going to be fun trying to tame it. The mounts, right on. Converter, now that is something that is a little over my head and I need more info to understand the full concept of how it all works. You gave a very good explaination of the results that may happen. Are you saying that the truck starts to move at 3000 rpm? Rearend ratio, I had in mind something in the neighborhood of 4:11's gear with the limited slip. I first wanted to stay with the 15" oem alum rims ( stock look) but I realize that will not work with that much tq and will need wider tires to get grip on the street. 18' front and 20 in rear if I go aftermarket rims. How wide??The guys that built the engine told me ALL AMOUNT the problem I was going to have hooking up the tires. Please explain more on the "decent power range" to determine the rearend ratio. Yes, to the rear disc upgrade. What I have seen and that has been limited, they are pricey for a kit, at least for other model years and makes. If you have any suggestion on kit or custom setup, I am all ears. I did video of the dyno but I don't recall any pics of the engine, maybe a picture on the engine stand is in order.

 

Perhaps this should be brought up in a more appropriate forum, but maybe not. All applications are different so the little discussions that we have here are probably alright. I am not trying to conduct a lesson plan here, just sharing some conversation so that perhaps others that are reading can find something interesting that they feel thet they too can participate. This way you get plenty of feedback and can take the parts that you like and run with that.

That Demon sounds just about right. While it pleases me to hear that someone else is running a demon, I love them. Did your builder help you chose the Demon that you have? Race demon? These dry flow well over the competition with the same advertised ratings. This is why they can make so much conservative power, and rally let the numbers fly. Cant say enough good things about these carbs. Keep a close eye on your fuel pressure. Lots of power in the small details with this carb. It will always work well, and when it right it is like magic.

Torque multiplier. Really, multiplier, not really a converter. Gonna really get the crazy looks now. Without getting that far into this, I will add a link and with this link you can learn some of the basics of the converter / multiplier. With these basics you can read or search or at least have a better understanding of any answers that may come about.
If some of the nomenclature is a little more understandable then you can be that much closer to making an informed decision. Thats the key, "informed decision". Still may not be the right one, but it will be a heak of a bunch closer to the formula or right combo so you can maximize your fun factor without throwing away money with trial and error.

You will read about stall speed and some of the mis-conceptions. many believe that a vehicle rolls or moves when it reaches its "stall speed" and the truth is that a vehicle with an automatic and any converter will roll or move when the brakes are released, regardless of stall speed. Yup, let off of the brake and it will roll. Give it a little gas and it starts to go faster.

Read here:

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Tech..._explained.asp

When you have some spare time, you can use a prgram similar to this:

http://www.proracingsim.com/dragsimmainpage.htm

This helps to better understand some of the principles that certain changes can bring.

Nothing better than the seat of the pants Dyno though. Get on fire her up and let the big dog eat!