Does anyone have experience with a "local" shop that can chrome things?

I'm refurbishing an antique safe and I'd like to have some of the parts chromed.

Is that the right terminology? Is there another process that is better?

Years ago, I had a shop called, "Astro... something" polish some stainless for me but I don't think that's going to work for this application.

Thanks.

David

 

I used them fifty years ago, and Astro Plating is still around, but their current Yelp reviews are disappointing.

Some safe parts are nickle plated.

Is this that Mosler "cannonball"?

Pop

 

Yes - if I can get the transport company to get it to my house.

But also for the 1884 Alpine. I stripped the hinge finials on the Alpine and they seem to be made of a very soft metal (possibly lead).

 

Can't believe this thread had no activity since 4/15.

I'm considering buying a 20lbs HF sand blaster kit. I need to sand blast the rusty safe I bought. I have NO experience sand blasting.

The job will not be "contained" as the safe stands 5 feet tall.

Am I getting myself into trouble? How much blast material will I need? Will my wife be pissed because it will be all over the backyard for the next three years?

Thanks for the replies.

 

My Dodge got some track brake goodies, and my Ford is getting new tires. Fuel and brakes should be plumbed, and she should be driving by wedneday I hope

 

Check out the many youtube reviews on the HF blasting kits. They have some limitations. Do you have picky neighbors? Access to lots of compressed air? Can you get a quote from a local blaster? To compare?

 

Does anyone know of a local source for unusual fasteners/screws? I used to use McFadden-Dale in Santa Ana but I was hoping to find something closer.

 

try these guys in Lake Elsinore.

American Material Company

 

Thank you.

Anyone else know of a location in the San Fernando Valley?

 

There's a Fastenal in Panorama City, 7900 Nelson Road, Panorama City, CA 91402.

Of course, it will depend on what you're looking for.

Pop

 

I use McMaster quite a bit. Great selection, almost always in stock. Usually have it the next day. Not so great prices.

 

Pop,

Fastenal didn't have what I need.

Bill,

McMaster seems like it has a better selection and is in the 562 area code.

Thank you.

David

 

A/C has been intermittent for a while now, and since summer's coming up soon, I thought I'd better get out that ol' Round Tuit.

Every time it went inop, merely touching the high-pressure limit switch connector restored operation. For a while.

It wasn't a bad switch, it was a bad connector (or the last couple of inches of wire leading to it),

I thought to myself, what are the chances of this connector being available? Turns out, when I Google'd it, a YouTube video popped up with an Excursion. Though the guy didn't show the part number, it gave me hope that an aftermarket connector was out there somewhere.

Turns out that my local O'Rielly's had one in stock. Hmmmm, this must be a more-common problem than I thought...

The connector is a Murray part number 37235, and costs ten bucks. It has four pigtail wires coming out of it, and the instructions say to determine which two will be needed, and simply cut the other two off.

After soldering, shrink-sleeving, tape-wrapping, and split-looming, the harness looks like the real deal.

Works like it, too.

Now, on into Summer, SoCal!

Pop

 

cool deal marv!

my ac is not 100%, not sure if its a charge issue or a restricted orifice tube. i flushed everything before i repaired the ac system from the last locked up pump. but while watching the gauges my low pressure side eventually drops down below 28psi ans the system cuts out for about a minute then kicks back in and runs for 8 or 10 minuets before the low pressure side kicks out at 28psi again. all while maintaing 200+ psi on the high side. i may have messed up my charge or the orifice tube is semi clogged or both and causing a lack of low pressure refrigerant to supply the receiver/dryer and feed the compressor.

wish i had a recovery machine! i really don't want to take it to a shop.



on a side note, next weekend i should be doing ball joints, new outer stub shafts and needle bearings....this will be the 3rd and hopefully last time i have to go in and fix ford/dana/spicers, stupid *** design.

i know a guy with a lathe i may try welding up the bearing surface on my old shafts and machining them....see if i cant "reman" them myself. if not, they are scrap anyways and i might learn something along the way.

 

Well look who the cat dragged in?! Me!

Just drove a 1972 f100 302 2wd back from Oxnard to Pasadena, so that is what I did to my truck today! Guy says it has custom cheesecloth gaskets. By the looks of it, it has the expensive screen mesh rear main seal too. I stopped at the first auto zone that I could find to replace the plugs, cap and rotor. #5 and #8 had zero clearance on the gap, lol, like literally smashed. Nursed it the 60+ miles, scared as hell at 40mph. I really didnt think I could be so scared for so long.

At one point, the front right wheel shimmied so bad that I thought I was done. All those years complaining about having to wear a selt belt, today I wish I had one more than ever. That shock is just hanging from the top stud, and the bottom bracket is bent closed, so a simple fix.

I have read up on here about "vehicle check" points when buying a used truck. I have studied them closely. Today, I clearly bypassed every check. I literally handed him the money, shook hands and drove away, all under the 5 minute mark. I only remember his name because it is the same as mine, seems legit.

The engine seems meh. After the plugs, cap and rotor it calmed down and purred like a wounded rhino. First plans will be cheap, rebuild the carb, check compression, valve cover gaskets, rear main seal (2 piece woohoo!), pan gasket, and see what else leaks. Next, tear into the wheel bearings and such.

All in all, it really comes down to one basic plus-no smog! And no ECU, PCM, sensors, etc.

It has ps and pb, so there is some silver lining right there. Was originally equipped with ac but that is long gone, going to remove the condenser and dryer. Radiator doesnt appear to line up with the mounting holes, so I will look into that later. No gauges work, head lights and tail lights light up.

End of day, I have a Ford truck in my driveway again, what do I have to complain about, right?