Need a little HOLLEY help here...
#16
07-31-2009, 02:15 PM
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ok, heres what you need:
$25.25 Re-build Gasket kit: http://holley.com/37-119.asp
For a Holley carb 4160 (Thats your 3310-2 carb)
Instructions: http://holley.com/37-119.asp
Specification sheet: http://holley.com/data/Products/Tech...199R8179-1.pdf
Technical Data: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...99R10015-1.pdf
Rebuild kit: $25.24
Advice: Free
Members on the forum: priceless!
Good luck & I hope this helps
Ricky
$25.25 Re-build Gasket kit: http://holley.com/37-119.asp
For a Holley carb 4160 (Thats your 3310-2 carb)
Instructions: http://holley.com/37-119.asp
Specification sheet: http://holley.com/data/Products/Tech...199R8179-1.pdf
Technical Data: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...99R10015-1.pdf
Rebuild kit: $25.24
Advice: Free
Members on the forum: priceless!
Good luck & I hope this helps
Ricky
#17
07-31-2009, 02:22 PM
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The "-" after the carb series is the generation of the carb. Yours is the second reincarnation of the 3310, hense the -2.
You should be able to walk into any parts store (or call Jegs or Summit, you're right there in Ohio with them!) and tell them you need a rebuild kit for a Holley 3310 and that's all they need to know. It will have some parts you won't need that are in later versions (I believe they are up to -5 now) but they are an easy rebuild.
I actually like the BG or Quick Fuels kits better than Holley kits now. Some of the Holley kits still only come with the old brown paper bowl gaskets where all the better aftermarket kits come with blue or red no-stick gaskets for the bowl and metering block. Same for the bowl screws, some Holley kits still have the laminated paper gaskets and all the aftermarket kits have teflon gaskets. Stay away from the store brand rebuild kits (Auto Zone, etc).
JMO,
SPark
You should be able to walk into any parts store (or call Jegs or Summit, you're right there in Ohio with them!) and tell them you need a rebuild kit for a Holley 3310 and that's all they need to know. It will have some parts you won't need that are in later versions (I believe they are up to -5 now) but they are an easy rebuild.
I actually like the BG or Quick Fuels kits better than Holley kits now. Some of the Holley kits still only come with the old brown paper bowl gaskets where all the better aftermarket kits come with blue or red no-stick gaskets for the bowl and metering block. Same for the bowl screws, some Holley kits still have the laminated paper gaskets and all the aftermarket kits have teflon gaskets. Stay away from the store brand rebuild kits (Auto Zone, etc).
JMO,
SPark
#18
07-31-2009, 02:57 PM
The "-" after the carb series is the generation of the carb. Yours is the second reincarnation of the 3310, hense the -2.
You should be able to walk into any parts store (or call Jegs or Summit, you're right there in Ohio with them!) and tell them you need a rebuild kit for a Holley 3310 and that's all they need to know. It will have some parts you won't need that are in later versions (I believe they are up to -5 now) but they are an easy rebuild.
I actually like the BG or Quick Fuels kits better than Holley kits now. Some of the Holley kits still only come with the old brown paper bowl gaskets where all the better aftermarket kits come with blue or red no-stick gaskets for the bowl and metering block. Same for the bowl screws, some Holley kits still have the laminated paper gaskets and all the aftermarket kits have teflon gaskets. Stay away from the store brand rebuild kits (Auto Zone, etc).
JMO,
SPark
You should be able to walk into any parts store (or call Jegs or Summit, you're right there in Ohio with them!) and tell them you need a rebuild kit for a Holley 3310 and that's all they need to know. It will have some parts you won't need that are in later versions (I believe they are up to -5 now) but they are an easy rebuild.
I actually like the BG or Quick Fuels kits better than Holley kits now. Some of the Holley kits still only come with the old brown paper bowl gaskets where all the better aftermarket kits come with blue or red no-stick gaskets for the bowl and metering block. Same for the bowl screws, some Holley kits still have the laminated paper gaskets and all the aftermarket kits have teflon gaskets. Stay away from the store brand rebuild kits (Auto Zone, etc).
JMO,
SPark
Amazing... In a few hours the mystery is solved. BTW, I guess this is a 750 instead of a 650 or 600 eh??? I wounder if that won't be a little too much for the 351? I was thinking a 650 would be pushing it a bit.
BTW, I do tend to stay away from AutoBone for the most part but sometimes they fill a need. This just isn't one of those times. Besides, it would take me two hours to explain it to the kid anyway. If I don't have a type, brand, year and model plus knowing if it has air conditioning they are totally lost.
Later Man...
#19
07-31-2009, 03:38 PM
Guess someone had to say it, with all due and sincere genuine respect to everyone involved, you’re wasting your time!
Just my biased prejudiced opinion based on experience …….
...........there is no help of any kind for a Holley (especially the four barrels), they will leak fuel, require continuous adjustment, and the power valves will leak eventually.
Buy a new Edelbrock (Carter AFB clone) and forget about it. (Sorry).
Just my biased prejudiced opinion based on experience …….
...........there is no help of any kind for a Holley (especially the four barrels), they will leak fuel, require continuous adjustment, and the power valves will leak eventually.
Buy a new Edelbrock (Carter AFB clone) and forget about it. (Sorry).
#20
07-31-2009, 04:11 PM
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Guess someone had to say it, with all due and sincere genuine respect to everyone involved, you’re wasting your time!
Just my biased prejudiced opinion based on experience …….
...........there is no help of any kind for a Holley (especially the four barrels), they will leak fuel, require continuous adjustment, and the power valves will leak eventually.
Buy a new Edelbrock (Carter AFB clone) and forget about it. (Sorry).
Just my biased prejudiced opinion based on experience …….
...........there is no help of any kind for a Holley (especially the four barrels), they will leak fuel, require continuous adjustment, and the power valves will leak eventually.
Buy a new Edelbrock (Carter AFB clone) and forget about it. (Sorry).
We forgive your ............
Usally when somone has leaks, (incorrect installation), continuous adjustment (wasn't adjusted properly the FIRST time) power valves leak (you dont' know how to drive a carb'ed vehicle, hence blowing the valve)
Not every one is perfect.......
Rock on!
(this post was all in fun!)
Thanks for you time, I'll be here all week!
Ricky
#21
07-31-2009, 08:12 PM
#22
07-31-2009, 09:08 PM
Dave, as was mentioned above by LM14, the red or blue no stick gaskets are well worth the extra coin because you'll be taking the front bowl off about 10 more times to mess with the power valve and the jets (you HAVE seen "Two Lane Blacktop," right?). You'll thank yourself for getting the no stick ones...just make sure you get the right ones or some orifices might be covered that aren't supposed to be.
It is a 750 but you'll be fine with that. Might lose 1 or 2 MPG but it should work just fine. I had one on a 350 I had, then I switched to a 600, wasn't a huge difference. I would imagine it'll be close to that.
Good Luck.
It is a 750 but you'll be fine with that. Might lose 1 or 2 MPG but it should work just fine. I had one on a 350 I had, then I switched to a 600, wasn't a huge difference. I would imagine it'll be close to that.
Good Luck.
#23
08-01-2009, 12:33 AM
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#24
08-01-2009, 09:13 AM
#25
08-01-2009, 09:19 AM
Good advice on the premium gaskets...
one other thing you may need IFRC...
a 'clutch head' driver for the secondary metering block screws...
There is also a kit to prevent powervalve blowouts... requires a bit of drilling to install a check ball in the base plate i belive.
one other thing you may need IFRC...
a 'clutch head' driver for the secondary metering block screws...
There is also a kit to prevent powervalve blowouts... requires a bit of drilling to install a check ball in the base plate i belive.
I'd like to know more about this and who has it for sale.
#26
08-01-2009, 09:34 AM
Dave,
I think you can find those PV saver kits on Summit but I don't know the brands. The ones I've used are all new enough to have them from the factory.
One good tip, once it's been run and you start the fine tuning, is to use a small plastic cup (something you'll never use for drinks again) to catch the gasoline from the fuel bowl(s). It makes sense, but nobody ever tells you that about a pint or so of gasoline is going to come pouring out of the lower bowl screws when you take them out. Test fit your cup before you take the screws out and you'll know if it will fit between the intake and the bowl to catch the gas.
I think you can find those PV saver kits on Summit but I don't know the brands. The ones I've used are all new enough to have them from the factory.
One good tip, once it's been run and you start the fine tuning, is to use a small plastic cup (something you'll never use for drinks again) to catch the gasoline from the fuel bowl(s). It makes sense, but nobody ever tells you that about a pint or so of gasoline is going to come pouring out of the lower bowl screws when you take them out. Test fit your cup before you take the screws out and you'll know if it will fit between the intake and the bowl to catch the gas.
#29
08-01-2009, 10:24 AM
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#30
08-01-2009, 10:35 AM