At the auto store the other day the guy recommended castrol to me and he told me not to use synthetic. Would synthetic be good for my truck? What brand do you guys prefer? I have a 95 F350 with a 460 in it. I have 75k on it. What weight, brand, and type of oil do you recommend for my truck?

 

First of all there's nothing wrong with using synthetic in my opinion. I would use weight recommended in your owners manual. My preference is with Mobil 1 synthetic because it's easy to get.

 

I've heard it's bad to go from using an oil like 5 or 10W30 to using synthetic, is this true? I'm just curious because I've heard it's not good. My engine is going to be rebuilt here in the next few weeks and i will probably run synthetic through it but i was wondering if it's bad to switch...

 

Switching to synthetic should be no problem. If you were using 5w30 before, just select 5w30 synthetic. I have switched 3 vehicles to Mobil 1 without any problem so far. '02 Explorer switched at 1000 miles. '91 Explorer switched at 88,000 miles. '93 Toyota Camry switched at 99,000 miles. You can always switch back to conventional oil if you aren't satisfied with the results. The two oils are compatible also so they could be mixed without any harmful effects.

 

In the "old days" synthetics had a bad rap about loosening up seals etc and causing leaks. Most of that was just hearsay, but the synthetics have been improved a lot since.

If you already have a leaky engine, synthetic may leak faster since it flows easier, but in an engine in good condition, synthetic will work just as well as dino and the engine should last longer and have more margin for heat and cold and drain periods etc.

So, if you engine has no leaks, synthetic is fine. With 75K on it, you won't get as much benefit from syn as you might have if started when fairly new, but it should still help.

Just my opinion based on reading.

Jim Henderson

 

I agree w/Jim Henderson and rgiles 100% in their posts on this topic - but I'd like to hear more about the type of duty or service, including climate (temps), location (urban/rural) and whether it's a daily driver, "weekend-warrior", commercially used or, well you know, what HAVE you, and what DO you use the vehicle for -a brief history, presently and future plans???

Thanks, Glenn . . .

 

I have talked to some very knowledgeable people that work in my industry (petro-chemical) about synthetics versus dyno. There is no doubt that synthetics are better in extreme conditions than conventional oil. When I say synthetics I am talking about a good PAO- Diester blend (not class 3 base stocks). The additive package on all oils is what really makes or breaks an oil. I have been told that Royal Purple really does have some amazing properties and has tremdous EP advantages. The big question here is in a auto motor does it help. That really depends on the motor design. Generally speaking conventional oil with routine drain intervals will cause an engine to last just as long as synthetic. The service just isn't severe enough. The low volitility of synthetics can cause extended drain intervals (in a clean environment) is a motor clean enough? I don't know.:-X12

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Dec-02 AT 08:42 PM (EST)]>I agree w/Jim Henderson and rgiles 100% in their posts on
>this topic - but I'd like to hear more about the type of
>duty or service, including climate (temps), location
>(urban/rural) and whether it's a daily driver,
>"weekend-warrior", commercially used or, well you know, what
>HAVE you, and what DO you use the vehicle for -a brief
>history, presently and future plans???
>
>Thanks, Glenn . . .


I am from Missouri so the temps in the summer are near 90's. then our winters can either be very mild or very cold. I live just outside the city limits. I drive about 10 miles from home to work. I drive it daily. I have never had a single problem with anything at all on the truck. The truck pulled my bobcat, big bails, and tractor maybe twice a month if even that. The trips were about 30 minute pulls just to my other farm. Now I dont pull anything with it because I bought a 2002 powerstroke f350. The only thing this truck pulls is my honda foreman when I go hunting. Until just about 3 months ago I rarely drove it. I would drive it about 5 times a month. Now it is my daily driver. I plan on putting 35 inch tires on it and possibly lifting it later on down the road. I plan on never getting rid of this truck because it is in perfect condition and my dad is the one that gave it to me. This truck isnt leaving me until I die.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Dec-02 AT 04:08 AM (EST)]

>
>I am from Missouri so the temps in the summer are near 90's.
>then our winters can either be very mild or very cold. I
>live just outside the city limits. I drive about 10 miles
>from home to work. I drive it daily. I have never had a
>single problem with anything at all on the truck. The truck
>pulled my bobcat, big bails, and tractor maybe twice a month
>if even that. The trips were about 30 minute pulls just to
>my other farm. Now I dont pull anything with it because I
>bought a 2002 powerstroke f350. The only thing this truck
>pulls is my honda foreman when I go hunting.
Now it is my daily driver. I plan on never getting rid of this truck
>because it is in perfect condition and my dad is the one
>that gave it to me. This truck isnt leaving me until I die.

OK - Now we're talkin' a bit!

Of course, now I'm thinking of as many more questions for you as I have "suggestions" or, "opinions", if you prefer - but I'll TRY to save those for the end.

1st - sounds like a great truck! And you are obviously passionate about it. That being the case, if I could afford it, I personally would use a synthetic, a "good" (probably a MOTORCRAFT) filter, and change them every 4-5000 miles winter & summer, every 5-6000 miles spring & fall, based on a few of your comments - NOT THAT THERE IS ANYTHING, AT ALL, WHATSOEVER, WRONG W/ CASTROL!!! By all accounts, everything I've EVER read, and from my own personal experience, Castrol conventional ("dino") is an excellent oil. I'm assuming that's what you've been using, based on that's what the "guy" at the parts store was trying to talk you out of spending your $$ on.

I also honestly and whole-heartedly believe you could stick with Castrol, or, if you were using something different, a number of other "Brand-Name" "dino's" (those coming to mind are - Valvoline, Chevron, Mobil, and a couple of others - not necessarily in that order!), and change 3-4000 (winter/summer) and 4-5000 (spring/fall).

This schedule, based on the info. you provived, should easily carry this truck, and you, for 250- 300,000 miles, who knows, perhaps even a half-million or more. Sounds like you aren't doing anything extreme or "severe" in the way of duty or service - though I'd pay particular attention to, and very closely adhere to the intervals, especially Winter, and of course w/ the filters - including a good quality AIR filter, especially since you mentioned driving on some farm land (DREADED DUST - and hay, and "what-not"), again if it were me, I'd pull THAT "puppy", probably every 15,000, or at least once a year, twice even better - depending on just how much "dirty-air" you actually encounter ("city" traffic, TRUE city traffic - can be hell on air-filters as well).

This seems to be the general consensus of those "in the know" on this forum - and there are a good number of good people here, folks who do oil ananlysis on they're vehicles and have a great deal of knowledge, WISDOM & (perhaps best of all) EXPERIENCE!

Now, at this point the main question that comes to mind is - You're "10-mile" daily commute to work, is it into the city ("stop & go") or away from the city (more high-way)?

Looking forward to hearing from you again - PLEASE keep us informed, of your decision(s) AND your progress - that's how this site "THRIVES"! - Best of luck,

Glenn . . .

PS - Forgot you had asked about "brand/weight/type" - well brand, if I haven't already sufficiently "ducked" that one, is usually a very personal decision - if you've been using Castrol - I'd personally stick w/ it, especially since it's been working for you.

Weight, generally, follow your O's manual, though it sounds like 10W30 would serve you best year round, though, if the engine is "tight", you might decide to go 5W30 winter, and if it "uses" some oil, a 15W40 summer, though again, it sounds like 10W30 would be your least complex choice - "no-brainer" year-round. Just look for the latest API-SAE (currently SL/GF-3) designation - changes (up-grades) every couple years.

And type, well half the forum is going to tell you "dino", half is going to say "Synth". - once again, a personal choice - but from what you've said, if you don't mind spending the money, Synth. is going to provide an extra margin of protection, and probably a bit longer life.

 

Wow! That was an awesome reply!!! Thank you for all of your help. You seem to be extremly knowledgable. As for my air filter I use a K&N filter. My drive to work consists of probably 7 miles on highway and then three miles up stop lights. I most likely will switch to synthetic even though I have had no problems as of yet. The only thing my truck has had done to it is new brakes, 2 sets of new tires and a new battery and that is it! As for oil brands should I use Mobil 1 or Castrol Synthetic?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 22-Dec-02 AT 05:56 PM (EST)] As for oil brands should I use
>Mobil 1 or Castrol Synthetic?

Thanks.

From what I've read, mostly from this forum, Mobil sued Castrol a few years back claiming "Syntec" was not a "true" synthetic (not as good as their's/Mobil's) and therefore were advertising falsely and/or unfairly competeing.

Mobil lost the case.

Now it seems, again, according to what I've read here, that they (Mobil) may be cutting a corner or two themselves (A.K.A. - saving themselves $$$$$$$!) ?

I believe them to BOTH be fine products - personally, if I had to choose, and I have chosen (Winter mainly, occasionally summer - when money was "right") ... I'd go w/ Mobil 1.

I believe, if you took a poll, which by the way you can do here, you'd probably find that Mobil would win by, oh, probably 3 or 4 to 1.

Scientific? Maybe not - but I believe Mobil virtually created the Synth. motor-oil market, is innovative, has a rock-solid reputation, and a tremendous following.

Again, you really can't go wrong by following the specifications (O's manual - weight/expected ambient temps., API/SAE latest designation) and, probably most importantly, following a timely MAINTENANCE schedule according to the type of duty/service/useage you expect to put your engine through, as well as the type that it's HAD since it's last change.

Best again, Glenn . . .

 

Thank you once again for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

 

If you are changing your oil at reasonable intervals the synth has NO advantages what so ever over dino. The avantages of synth are in arctic climates and lab testing only. Save your money.

Just a side note on your air filter. This is far more important than what oil is used. K&N air filters are suspected of allowing to much dirt in the engine and I believe this to be true. I would (and do) use a standard paper air filter. They filter better IMO. Do a search in this forum on air filters. There is a lot of info on that subject.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Dec-02 AT 03:52 PM (EST)]>If you are changing your oil at reasonable intervals the
>synth has NO advantages what so ever over dino. The
>avantages of synth are in arctic climates and lab testing
>only. Save your money.
>
>Just a side note on your air filter. This is far more
>important than what oil is used. K&N air filters are
>suspected of allowing to much dirt in the engine and I
>believe this to be true. I would (and do) use a standard
>paper air filter. They filter better IMO. Do a search in
>this forum on air filters. There is a lot of info on that
>subject.

Stab -
With all due respect;

1. - I ... cheap, broke-butt that I am (these days), am ALL FOR SAVING CHA-CHING ($$$$)! The last folks whose vaction-homes, yachts, and other luxurious life-style frills I care to contribute to are the "folks" (CEO's, Corporate Execs., etc.) at the major oil companies (I take that back, politicians are first (LAST) on that list), however ...

2. I don't know about you - but most of us do not live in a "perfect world" - an oil change of mine has, more than once, easily, unfortunately, been put off a week or two, especially winter & summer which seem to be busier times than spring and fall (at least for me), and IF I've run my "dino" into the 5000 mile "neighborhood" (give or take 500 miles) that could mean, and has meant, an extra 1000 to 2000 miles on a conventional motor oil - and I personally, for one, (and again, believe it to be the overwhelming majority consesus of "enquireing-minds") do NOT care, at all, to run a conventional motor oil past 5000 - again, especially Winter & Summer - "Arctic" air-masses visit me on a very regular basis here in the mountains of VA. anytime from the 1st of Nov. through the end of Apr. (half the year), and in the middle 3-4 months of that time, it can, and often does stick around for weeks at a time - we've had two (2) days above freezing in the past month alone, w/ temps. generally ranging from single digits (4 F., so far) to low/ mid-twenties (daytime highs) - I'm talking mid Nov. to mid Dec. - ( Jan. & Feb. ought to be a regular picnic!). Synthetic serves me (my engine) better than "dino", several times a day, during cold starts, for half the year.

3. Over-heating, which can, theoretically, occur at anytime of the year, is obviously more of a factor during summer, when, A/C running, more (and typically, heavier) loads hauled, over mountains, and then, stop & go "highway" traffic (vacationers) and the occassional drive into (or anywhere near) the dreaded city-jungle (bumper-to-bumper) ... well, Synthetic WOULD provide a few seconds (minutes?) more protection (cushion or "margin" of internal safety) in the event of an over-heat occurence (belt, hose, water-pump, etc., whatever).

And 4. - I DO AGREE with your Air-filter assessment, especially in rural "situations" AS WELL AS true, deep, heavy, big-city traffic/driving - therefore would consider it to be more than just a "side note" ... in those instances. But the guy was not referring to either of those situations - "sounded" to me like he was talking mostly sub-urban environment (?), fairly "clean-air" driving.

Obviously just MHO - Glenn . . .