So I'm reading everything. I bought a 03 to replace my 06 that was totaled...I paid $2200 for the truck (needs a tranny) but when I started it at the dealer it was PUKING oil from the drivers side of the motor (ran for 10 minutes and lost half a quart). I'm debating on just yanking the motor and transmission out of my 06 and putting it in the 03, but it would be really nice to have an extra motor just incase of a rainy day. I notice some are replacing the ICP for check engine and running issues, but is it possible this is leaking oil?
Top of page there is a search function. Type in ICP VIDEO and search "only in titles" and search only in the 6.0 forum. It's the first result in the search. I'm working from my phone or else I'd paste it for you.
Hey guys, i have a 2003 6.0 l which my check engine light came on and threw code for ICP . I noticed it been idling weird and would surge at times but had no dash light on yet. Ive read many posts about how to change it, its a damn good thing i have skinny arms because i went at it from the bottom. I still have to buy 1 1/16" wrench to loosen then install new one but im glad i went the way i did, saved alot of time and wrenching... Just thought i'd post and let u guys know i couldnt do it without you guys! This forum is the most helpful and interesting fixes on the web, thanks to you all!
i know this is probably a dead post but i just had my hpop and icp replaced about 6 months ago and now the truck is doing the surging thing but has not thrown any codes while on the stock tune. I have a late model 2004 and i know the head gasket is bad, anyone have any ideas
Ok those ideas about the 3/8 fuel line and taping the wobbly joint were strokes of brilliance! Those two items saved me tons of time. I let this go for month's because I dreaded fighting it. Sucker was puking a half quart of oil every time i parked it lately.
Just finished this. Wanted to add another tip. I discovered that you can use a regular length 3/4" drive socket and tape a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter in to the socket about half way, the socket will fit over the sensor and you can get the darn thing in and out. This cuts the length down quite a bit, and only required one small dent in the heat shield. And I didn't have to cut down a 1/2" drive socket to fit. I didn't have one to try, but I suspect a 3/4" U-joint followed by the adapter would have worked well in the socket as well, and maybe better. I did have to find a friend with smaller hands to get the darn wire plugged back in though.
First, the thank you's, especially to william_04_x. Without the thorough write up I would have been really lost. Also, all the other posts were very helpful. I went in from the top for two reasons: I got under the truck and really didn't think I could reach the sensor. I also wanted to replace the pigtail, and wasn't sure how much dis-assembly would be required to do that.
Second, I did not say anything nice about the designer of this ridiculous (cleaned up for the post) place for a sensor.
All in, took me about 5 hours.
Dis-assembly: 1 hour.
Get sensor out (excellent tip to tape the union and the socket) about 30-45 minutes. Part was taking a break.
Get new sensor back in: 1 hour. Did the hose trick, but still had a problem getting it started. I pushed a 5 inch punch into the hose to stiffen the hose and hold it straight. Went right in.
Replace pigtail, re-connect sensor: 1 hour plus. I am glad the designers mother wasn't around.
Reassembly and clean up: 1 hour.
I only had (1) 10mm nut left over. Pretty good for me. Still can't figure out where it came from. It's not the ground wire, I got that one.
Thanks again everyone! I don't know if it's a placebo effect, but the thottle does seem to be more responsive, and no surging!