Im still amazed that my truck bogged then started stalling. I get online, describe problem to google and get the correct answer from Ford Truck Enthusiast forums. Then im given options on how and what to replace as per my needs. All this and i never even registered.
My truck is running great (for now) and im happier then a pig in mud. I got raped for the parts from Koons Ford of Annapolis. But we are a 2 car family for a reason and didn't have time to wait on shipping that i couldn't even order till after labor day weekend. I was stuck like chuck for the parts.
12x16 tarp $26 (rained from start to finish)
Trick of the day:
Borrowed a boogie board to lay across battery radiator area to lay on.
Put 2x6's on laid down cinder blocks across front and along drivers side fender.
I have an '03 f-250 diesel with about 21.5K on it, and several months ago the engine light came on so I have not driven it much. I got a replacement icp sensor, and read john 11139's instructions, got the heat shield off, but can't get to what I think might be the icp. Is it facing the back of the truck or facing the driver's side of the truck. If it's facing the back of the truck, I can't get to it. It's just too far up. If it's facing the driver's side of the truck, I haven't located it. When i read the instructions, I thought if it was not too far from the right side 10mm bolt, I should be able to get to it easily. Lighting is a problem. Also, I haven't access to a lift, so I am crawling around under the truck. I am praying that it's within reach of my arm. John 11139 can you assist me?
Its facing drivers side door hinge basically. Stick your hand up there and feel for a heavily insulated wire heading from drivers side towards center top rear of engine. The wrapping will be foil like covering on top of sensor. You need to grab that and slide it back on the wire to expose sensor to view. Try to be nice to foil so you can re-use it. Heat is suspect in causing this problem.
If you are replacing this sensor based on an engine light, its a true roll of the dice for success. Low anti-freeze will make that thing come on.
I finally go the sensor replaced. It took 3 weekends to get the heat shield off, locate the sensor; It took yesterday, and today to figure out hoe to bet it out, snd replaced. I had to raise the front end of the truck before I had enough room to free up my arms to get into position to remove it. Then I had to cut an inch of a deep 1 1/16in ratchet socket to remove the icp. Now having the devil trying to get the heat shield back on. If anyone has some experience with this, I would really appreciate it. I've tried every way I could to replace it but it's so far stumped me.
I'm having trouble getting the heat shield in place, to put in the screws. I can get the shield up there but can't get the holes lined up to screw them in. Can't get the contoured shield flat up against the back of the engine the was it was before I removed it..
Fellows: If you follow my instructions it is not that hard. I am over 70 years old and if I can do it, then you can. You dont need a hoist. Doing it on a cement floor, or blacktop is alot eaiser that trying to slide around on the dirt. Just get every thing prepared like I said in eairler post. Get the truck jacked up and sitting on jack stands. You dont need 6ft arms to do it. One of the little things that will save you time (and many of you are having a problem here by the posts) Cut the head off of a 10mm spare bolt, so that when you go back together, dont try to mount the heat shield without first inserting this stud, because you cannot look up there and see with your hands up there. Screw the stud in a couple of turns. Set the heat shield on that stud, start the bolt opn the other side, then remove the stud and install the other bolt. You need a trouble light but most of the work is by feel and if you take your light and looks first before you put your hands up. You cannot work, and hold the light too. I think there is too much to remove by doing it from the top, and too hard laying across the engine, plus too much to remove to get to it, overflow bottle, ecm, wireing harness etc. That little clip on the plug of the ICP is not that hard to flip with your fingers. If you do it from the bottom you must use a cut down 1 1/16 box wrench and not a socket. I guess the hardest thing I had trouble with is that the tape that holds the insulating sleeve on had come off and I had trouble keeping it up on the harness to hook it back up.
Thanks William for all your pictures and help. Would have never found it with out the great details. Changed it out today and truck is running great. I did almost everything you said on your post, but when I went to put the new sensor in with the hose I didn't have much luck. I went from under neath and started it in by reaching up and finding the hole with my finger and screwed it in, then went back up top and tighten it with the socket rig. I think I might of been able to get it in and out from the bottom if the truck was on a lift, it could be done with out taking anything off. I think you can get a socket on it from the bottom, take if off and install the new one in under 30 minutes. Live and learn, thanks again for your great pictures.
I am currently faced with the P2285 code and wanted to double check the part number(s) prior to ordering. My truck is a 2004 (7/2003 build date) and it appears I am fortunate (insert sarcasm here) enough to have the rear location ICP sensor. Correct me if I am wrong, from what I have been reading it appears I will need the Sensor (3c3z-9f838-ea) and the Pigtail (5c3z-12224-a) to correct the problem.....are these the correct part #'s for my application?
Also, I found the sensor for $99.99 and the pigtail for $24.99 (+ S/H)..... does this sound reasonable?
Well if your ICP is under the turbo then it is most likely the IPR valve . If it is on the valve cover then not sure . Mine is 03 ICP under turbo on my valve cover is glow plug thingy. If you broke the IPR , how in the hell did you manage that.
2003, 250 XLT cc 4x4 sb 6.0 mods,scan gauge2, coolant filter, the blue spring,and hypertect max energy on stage 1 only,high idle mod,stock down pipe 4inch straight pipe ,no kitty ,welded egr cooler, new oil cooler and that bad **** 03 turbo whistle free mod DAVID
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