I go to napa first ,then others later if I need to. I can order from napa ,no deposit because of 40 years of doing buisiness with the local store, but not all of them . I can look at it , sometimes try it to fit and if not satisfide,hand it back with out any problems or restocking charges. They will then start looking again for what I want. Other local parts stores may do different . I order online to but then pay high shipping and sometimes return problems because everything in the my area comes in from other states . You may not have that problem in your area. I like to shop local to help my home town.

 

Well, I went to Napa, and got a few parts to show up on their screen. Here is a few pics of parts that I have been told I need to replace as part of the clutch assembly, and also the motor-trans mounts. I'm only posting them because I want people to confirm that I'm replacing the correct part, as they are not cheap, hahahaha.

Clutch disk


Nect two pics are of the....??? I don't know what to call it? What is this part as a whoe called?




Engine mount


Trans mount--He said there was a top and bottom, and at the time I thought "oh, there is a metal part and a rubber part that are seperable", but just now I looked at the part I have and tried to look it over and seperate it, and there was no way...Does anyone know if this is the correct part(s)?


Thank you for any comment....And please, don't be shy.

 

The clutch looks like it needs to be replaced. While you're there, yes, replace the pressure plate and throw-out bearing. From the looks of that mount, I'd go ahead and replace it too. Even though you may be thinking some of it may not be needing to be replaced, it's more than worth it to replace it all now rather than having to redo it in the near future.

 

Learn as you go is fun right ? Clutch disk , clutch presure plate look bad ,replace . trans mount metal bonded to rubber, you can't pull it apart , unless you are stronger than me , it looks bad to . flywheel is needing replaced or rebuilt if it looks as bad as the rest of the parts and check the flywheel teeth if you get it rebuilt . if the parts you show came from the engine you have , they are most likely the correct ones . please take our advise and not use any of the old parts you are showing . Have fun JIM

 

stick with it and keep asking questions , the only stupid one is the one you didnt ask . we all had to start somewhere too ya know . your gaining knowledge and experience as you go , and if it does get frustrating , the first time you fire her off and go for a cruise it'll all be worth it , trust me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and yeah replace it all . looks pretty used up and for petes sake replace the throwout bearing . i"ve been doing this forever it seems and took the cheap way out , cause i am a tight a-- , and was in a hurry to get it running again for the cruise for charity , and didnt replace mine and geuss what i had to take apart and do it all over again to replace the throw out bearing ,............

 

most napa stores can resurface your flywheel call them before you haul it down there. the tranny mount should be cheap less then 20 bucks.
i have found with brake parts anyway napa is cheaper then anything i've found online. it helps my company owns the building the local napa store is in.

 

Alraigh, now this is my million dollar question. Is this thing the throw out bearing? is that bearing seperate or inside of it? It seems like people were calling it the pressure plate, so I'm thinking the bearing is somewhere else. Where? What's it look like?

Thank you guys soooooo much, this is exactly what I was asking for. Great info.

 

Since you are planning on rebuilding your drivetrain instead of replacing, your next investment should be in a shop manual. You will find it to be the invaluable in the rebuild of your truck.I can't even imagine working on these old trucks without one. Best money I've spent on my truck.

 

The thing pictured is the pressure plate

The throw out bearing is probably still on the input shaft of the transmission. It pushes the three fingers of the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
The pilot bearing/bushing is in the center of the rear of the crankshaft.

Yes.
Definitely get a manual for your truck. It will save you much grief as you go along.

 

The flywheel is the big flat wheel with the teeth around the edge. It bolts to the rear of the crankshaft and the pressure plate (that bowl like part with the three fingers in the center) bolts to the flywheel. The flywheel is supposed to have a smooth machined face under the pressure plate. If it is rusted, pitted, burnt looking, or has spiderweb like fine cracks in that surface (likely given the rest of the part's condition) it will need to be refinished or replaced depending on how bad it is. Only an automotive machinist can measure it and determine what needs to be done. Take it in and ask their advice.
Here is how the clutch works:
The flywheel and pressure plate are attached to the crankshaft and rotate at engine speed. The clutch disk (the plate with the teeth in the center) floats inbetween the flywheel and pressure plate and the teeth in the center mate up to the transmission input shaft. The throwout bearing slides over the input shaft housing and rests on the fingers in the center of the pressure plate. The clutch fork engages a groove in the throwout bearing and connects with linkage to the clutch pedal. When you press in on the clutch pedal the fork pivots and pushes the throwout bearing againt the pressure plate fingers. This pushing in on the fingers compresses the springs in the pressure plate housing and moves the pressure plate away from the clutch disk. This in turn releases the disk and it stops rotating and driving the transmission so you can stop the truck or shift gears. When you release the clutch pedal the throwout bearing releases the pressure on the fingers which in turn allows the pressure plate to move forwards towards the flywheel clamping the clutch disk against the flywheel and turn with the engine. The disk now turns the transmission input shaft. The clutch is actually a pretty basic coupler/decoupler between the engine and the transmission. The clutch disk has thin plates of friction material attached to both sides so it doesn't slip when clamped by the pressure plate. These plates must press against clean smooth steel to produce that friction, hence the need for both the flywheel and pressure plate to be smooth, grease free (don't handle them with greasy hands and/or wipe the surfaces clean with a clean rag and acetone or spray brake cleaner) do put a thin dab of high temp wheel bearing grease on the pressure plate fingers where the throwout bearing presses tho.
The pilot bearing is actually a bushing or cylinder that pushes into a hole drilled in the center rear of the crankshaft. The input shaft of the transmission slides into and is supported by this bushing. They don't typically wear much, so unless it is damaged or missing I wouldn't be concerned about replacing it, they are a little tricky to remove. If you must replace yours, ask how to remove the old one.
I'd highly recommend replacing the transmission input shaft seal before installing the tranny, you definitely don't want it leaking tranny oil all over your new clutch!

OH! and be sure you bolt the flywheel and pressure plate back on with the same bolts they were originally attached with or new one specifically designed for that purpose! The flywheel bolts often have notches across the heads to identify them. Torque them with a torque wrench to the value specified in a cross star pattern like when you change a tire. These are specially made and hardened bolts. Substituing the wrong ones can allow them to break when releasing the clutch, and the flywheel will come thru the bellhousing and cab like a buzz saw, taking any body parts in the way with it. I have witnesses clutch explosions where the flywheel came right thru the cowl of the car and flew 30' into the air!

 

I learned much about automotive mechanics many years ago when working with older, experienced friends. However, it is very important to develop proper technique early; that’s where a good shop manual is invaluable. The manual will show you the tools to use, the proper sequence for assembly/disassembly, repair/replace parts information, illustrations, and torque specifications.
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Once you understand the mechanics, you can plan your work and purchase the needed parts. Most clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearings can be purchased cheaper as kits. They will even include a pilot transmission shaft (usually plastic) to align the clutch teeth with the transmission shaft teeth for easy insertion.
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The job you are about to undertake is not too difficult but it is time consuming and the parts/machine work will cost a few hundred dollars.
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Ask questions as you go along to be sure you do it right the first time.

 

Most all your stock replacement parts can be found in Mid Fifty's catalog. www.midfifty.com
They are real good people and the gals there really know their inventory and can answer any questions about it.

 

Well, everybody has been telling me for a while I need a manual....but one major thing has been left out...WHICH ONE?

I only see stock type manuals, and I have the funniest feeling that a stock ford manual wont have ANY torque specs, or how to "rebuild everything on truck" like everybody has mentioned I need.

What and where is this "all knowing" manual everyone is always telling me to get? Do I have to get 5 different manuals, or is there one really good one?

I don't mind buying stuff as long is it's the correct book.

Is it hard to replace the trans input shaft gasket, by the way?

Ill ask about the throw out bearing.

OK, can anyone help me with a list here:
-Clutch plate
-throw-out-bearing
-Pressure plate(entire assy.)
-trans input shaft GASKET!

What else am I forgetting that I should replace? Please, any advice is welcome. Thank you all so much, again(especially for all the explanation[although I already knew roughly how a clutch worked]).

 

Start by going to the library and looking at the automotive repair/maintenance section. They will have a number of books on general automotive repair including Motor's Manuals. They usually have books dedicated to engine rebuilding and clutch/transmission repair/installation.

I have included a picture from a 1956 Ford Truck Shop Manual on the clutch repair section. Since you are staying stock, this manual gives specific information for that model year. You can buy the paper version or they most likely have them on CD/DVD. Check e-Bay.

The Shop Manual for your year truck is the best but it would do you good to have more than one source as mentioned above.

While places like Mid-Fifty, LMC, Dennis Carpenter, etc. sell antique parts, you can usually find them cheaper at Rock Auto, Checker/Parts America/Advance Auto, or search on-line once you know the parts you need. Good luck.

 

Oh wow, amn. That's really cool. What's the exact name of that book? What's the cover look like? I'll search e-bay.

Oh, and many members told me to search my local library, I unfortunately forgot about that step though(sorry all), so that'll be my next move. Do you think the library will have something that's "my-truck" specific?