man...just read 8 pages of this...now i have an even bigger project for the weekend.

im gonna guess this has never been done on mine, going on 200k miles...long overdue!

probably easier to just replace both hubs at this point...are the ebay ones linked in an earlier page **** and OEM is the only way to go?

 

not sure if it was mentioned but they are our forum sponsor

I just bought one of these from riff raff and after reading the thread im going to order some abs sensors too
Riffraff Diesel: Front ABS Grease-able Block Off Fitting

 

It appears to me that some are willing to gamble on a very weak OEM setup. For others cost is no object when it comes to reliability*. Some may be willing to put everything at risk should there be a catastrophic failure due to some southern engineered solution (with respect to bearings with PLASTIC cages - yikes!). I for one cannot (nor care to) take any risks with me and mine, therefore I take pains to totally eliminate any foreseeable problems. If these sealed unit bearing hubs were on an aircraft then there would be a protocol for required replacement after so many hours or cycles - no ifs, ands, or buts. The notion of operate to failure (with plastic cage bearings one cannot inspect nor make absolutely certain are properly greased) is just plain stupid when the wife and the kiddos are subject to being in the truck.

FWIW, Dynatrac gave me free shipping when I asked if they can do any better on the price. Some whine about the price of correcting a manufacturer's flaw yet spend thou$and$ on things like upgraded interiors, tires and wheels, lift kits, stereos, etc.

(*not to mention the fact that with the OEM setup one can NEVER be sure what one's front hubs are doing - are they locked when they shouldn't be?? are they unlocked when they should be locked??)

 

What about using a grease needle to get the grease down in there?

 

Works great. I wrapped mine with some tape to make a good seal.

 

I don't agree with any of that. It sounds like you are trying to justify buying the expensive Dynatracs. I greased my bearings at 160K miles and they should go as long as I have the truck. It's not like they suddenly lock up, flip the truck over, and kill everyone, they give plenty of warning first. You talk about people spending money on wheels etc but the Dynatrac hub kit is well over $2,000 and they don't even give you u-joints with it. Also, I always know when my hubs are locked because I turn the dial (like on the Dynatracs) when I need them and just leave them turned all winter because there is a lot of snow in this small town.

 

There's different ways of doing it. I like the setup where you just remove the wheel and use the plastic tube attached to a grease gun, very simple and easy.

 

I don't care what anyone says, bearings go out, the tappered rollers and the unit bearings. Italy all about maintinance. Regular repacks(tappered rollers) and regular geeasings(unit) are the key to longevity.

Also, you can put regular old lockouts into the unit bearing hub. I have warn hubs in mine. Fit 79-04 D50/D60 fords. So that's not a argument either.

 

The unit bearings are tapered roller bearings (double row) and luckily someone discovered a way to grease them.

 

I know this is a few years old, but I just came across it and figured I'd bring it back TTT............................some good info here, thanks.

 

Yea, but the original post photos don't come up anymore...

 

When the "perma-ban" happens people take their toys and leave the sandbox.

 

Those photos showed a funnel with grease. I believe I have them if you REALLY wanted to see them, but.....

Since doing it that way isn't really necessary, it's just as well that they are no longer used as an example.

He was using the wrong grease, as well (of course that's debatable).

The method has evolved into:

1. Clean around the ABS sensor
2. Remove your ABS sensor
3. Unscrew the tip off your grease gun hose
4. Stick the hose in the hole
5. Grease until about full
6. Put it all back together

Adapters and funnels aren't really necessary, as the I.D. of the sensor hole is just slightly larger than the O.D. of the threads on the hose.

Pop

 

So in other words, the hub zerk elminates the need for the funnel trick, right?

 

Okay, so just to clarify...............what is the latest as far as the " proper " grease to use ?

Thank you