I just did my injectors, and have made thorough instructions.

1. Remove ground cables.

2. Remove intake and crank case vent.


3. Remove valve covers, gaskets, and UVC wiring.

4. Remove the four plugs (two in each head) to drain the high pressure oil rails. Plugs are brass and located onder each wiring harness. Let all the oil drain out.


5. Remove all the aluminum oil returns from the injectors. Also, there are two retaining bolts per injector, only remove the one on the exhaust side of injector.

6. Remove the rear injectors first. You do this by sliding the retainer over the front bolt. Use a pry bar to pry the injector from the head. Just give it a few good hits with your hand, if you hit it too hard they can go flying across the yard Removing the rears first allows any fuel and oil to just fill the rear cylinders.


7. Once the fluids are done draining remove the other six.

8. Make sure all the copper nozzle washers came out, if you do not have all 8, search in the injector cups.

9. Rebuild or have your injectors rebuilt. Here is a pick of a 180cc with new o-rings


10. Once injectors are ready to be installed, liberally cover each one with motor oil before putting it back into the injector cup. Doing one injector at a time, put injector in the cup. To seat it, use a rubber mallet, do not hit them too hard, you will hear a sound change when it is all the way in.


11. Torque the 8 retaining bolts to 108 INCH pounds. Put all the return oilers back on.

12. Once all 8 injectors are in place and torgued, pull the rear glowplug on each head.

13. Put the oil gallery plugs back in and then the VC gasket and UVC wiring.

14. Temporarily put on each VC with one bolt in each. Remove Maxi #9 (keeps injectors from firing) then turn over the motor for about 10 seconds.

15. Pull VC's back off and replace the two glow plugs, they were removed to blow the fluids out of #7 and #8 cylinders to prevent hydro locking.

16. Fill the HPOP and the high pressure oil rails. Fill the rails by pulling the ICP for the drivers side and the front exterior plug on the passengers. Once full replace fuse #9.

17. Replace valve covers, intake, and ccv. Start truck, may take a little while, and let warm up. Now go out and drive it for about 80 miles to remove all the air from the high pressure oil system.

 

Nice job, pix are always a welcome site. If "They" will allow, REPS sent.

Rog

 

Very nice picts and instructions. Was this your first time? How long did it take? Did you rebuild them to stock or did you modify them?

I would send REPS but don't know how. How do you do that?

 

Update your torque specs on the injector bolts to 120 inch pounds...

 

120? I will change it, my haynes manual said 108.

And wildstang, it was my first time, I modified them into stage 1's. Removal was about an hour. Tearing down injectors about an hour and a half. Waiting on machine shop, 3 days. Two hours to rebuild. And two hours to replace and get fired up. Plan on being down 4 days unless you can machine them yourself.
And to rep someone u click on the heart at the top right of that post.

 

Kevin, about how many $$$$$ did it cost to do this mod? (not counting all the grief from swamps)?

 

A DIY kit from DIY-Injectors.com is 250.00, and 100.00 for the machine shop. So 350.00 total. Then you have to get a chip burned if you want them to operate correctly. That was another 140.00. So I have close to 500 in them.

 

The torque was revised to a higher value.

 

Very good post and info. Reps sent.

 

Wow, that doesn't sound so bad... I was thinking it would be a lot harder than that. Good job! Nice pics!!!

 

What exactly the machine shop did to the pistons (micras, thousands, etc in lenght or wide or what)? is difficult to do it?.

 

You would have to buy the DIY kit. The part is an internal intensifier piston. Kit comes with special tools for getting into the injector, and instructions for the machining tolerances. You have to completely tear the injector down. The machine shop takes some of the length off. But it has very fine tolerences. They all have to be within .001" of eachother.

 

Oh, OK, I got that. thanks a lot. . I asked because you can buy with the DIY kit the machined pistons for extra cash ($225.00 IIRC), and as you mentioned the machine shop collected to you only $100.00, and to save some cash I wanted to know what would be the work.

 

Make that .0005", half of a thousandth of an inch, is what we shoot for anyway.

Once you send your Piston cores back in, though, you get $50 back, so in the end the pre-machined Pistons cost you $175.
The main thing with buying the pre-machined Pistons is you can rebuild each injector one at a time and have your project finished the same day instead of waiting on a machine shop.

It is very precise machining, a surface grinder works best, though I have seen some pistons cut on a mill and lathe. I know from experience that even carbide end mills and lathe cutters won't hold up to these things, and the shop I used to have machine them told me to never go back to them because they eat up so much tooling.
Surface grinder takes a while but is very accurate and meant for this type of very hard material.

FWIW, the pre-machined Pistons that you buy are brand new custom made to my specs.

 

Jim, did you get my PM from a couple days ago?