What Should I Know About Pulling A 7.3
#1
What Should I Know About Pulling A 7.3
Hello, I got a 1999 7.3L PS with 210,000 miles. I recently have had no oil pressure so I replaced the oil pressure sending unit but that did not work so I got a mechanical gauge and it said 0psi at idle and the most I could get was about 20psi. So as I was looking around I noticed around my oil pan it was wet and there was oil in other places too. I happened to knock on my oil pan and I heard something rattling around in there. I pulled the oil plug and drained the oil and the magnet on the bolt was covered with metal shavings. Anybody know what I could be hearing in my oil pan??? I got everything off the engine and I am ready to pull it, just waiting on a good time.
Also, while I have to engine out what would be some things you recommend me changing since I got 210,000 miles on it? Any help possible would be great or any tips would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
Also, while I have to engine out what would be some things you recommend me changing since I got 210,000 miles on it? Any help possible would be great or any tips would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
#2
Sounds like a good opportunity to build an even stronger motor than before. What to do to it at this point depends on what kind of power you will plan on producing with your finished rebuild? The members on this forum should be chime in soon to provide you with some good suggestions I am sure, but they will want to know what kind of power you will want to make out of the motor.
#4
Your up-pipes could be swapped out for the IH bellowed up-pipes.
You could pull your valve covers, check the torque on the glow plugs (GP) and injectors, maybe pull the GPs to check their condition, make sure your UVCH is in good shape and not coming loose.
Check your main seals for leaks. It would be a lot easier changing them with the engine out.
... some of the experienced guys will add to this. I'm interested in what they suggest since I may pull my engine this summer as well.
You could pull your valve covers, check the torque on the glow plugs (GP) and injectors, maybe pull the GPs to check their condition, make sure your UVCH is in good shape and not coming loose.
Check your main seals for leaks. It would be a lot easier changing them with the engine out.
... some of the experienced guys will add to this. I'm interested in what they suggest since I may pull my engine this summer as well.
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#6
Look your oil pan over very close. If you see any signs of rust, replace it while the engine is out for other reasons. Change the oil cooler 0-rings also. Up-pipes would be so easy to install, (bellowed that is). Check with Clay on the pipes. Like Chase said, anything your wallet will let you do.
#7
You could be hearing a number of things and its is pure guessing at this point. You're only gonna know when you pull the pan.
With 210k on the motor, I would recommend doing a rebuild since you have to remove it anyway. They really are not that expensive if you're not adding big HP parts. Powerstroke shop sells a complete rebuild kit that includes every gasket, o-ring, and part for the rebuild including new pistons. Its under $1000 for the kit, so then you just have some machine shop work to the block and head.. Generally speaking, the machine shop does the assembly as well..
Also while you are working on the engine, send your injectors off to a competent injector shop, even if you want to stay stock. They can rebuild stock injectors for cheap.
With 210k on the motor, I would recommend doing a rebuild since you have to remove it anyway. They really are not that expensive if you're not adding big HP parts. Powerstroke shop sells a complete rebuild kit that includes every gasket, o-ring, and part for the rebuild including new pistons. Its under $1000 for the kit, so then you just have some machine shop work to the block and head.. Generally speaking, the machine shop does the assembly as well..
Also while you are working on the engine, send your injectors off to a competent injector shop, even if you want to stay stock. They can rebuild stock injectors for cheap.
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#8
While the oil pan is off, check your piston cooling jets to make sure they are all on and tight. Check your: dipstick o-ring area into the pan for leaks and tightness, EBPV tube that feeds into the passenger side exhaust manifold for rust or holes. A good thorough cleaning of the block, engine valley and engine bay may be in order as well.
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#11
I'd at least put new main and rod bearings in it while it's right there. You probably had an oil jet break off and end up in the pan. When i rebuilt my engine correctly, then ran it with the truck running right, i broke it again, pulled it out and a damn oil jet was stuck in the pickup tube. Im welding all of the tubes to the flanges now.
#12
I have been waiting for Kris to chime in. Of the regular posters on this board, I would venture to say, that he has the most recent knowledge of doing this and he has the most quantity of knowledge having done it at least 4 times in the last year or so to various levels of built trucks from mostly stock, all the way to 700+ HP 7.3's.
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