If you are hung up on cleaning out thread holes used a little wd 40 and high pressure air try it you will like it.

 

So, will the studs thread in deeper or not?

I don't know about the 6.0 block, but I have seen other engines become damaged because main cap or cylinder head studs bottoming out in the threaded hole and pushed excessively on the bottom of the threaded hole which cracked the block!

BarnieTrk

 

If the threads of the holes are not clean and have crap in them the studs can stop and not be all the way in then when you put 200+ lbs on it either the nut will turn or the stud can turn which ever has less resistance. The studs need to be bottomed out. in the block.

 

IIRC the studs go in the block at 30lbs you could easily get a false reading with crud gumming up the threads.It's not much trouble to take the time to clean the threads

 

Mr. Sandman,
Sorry it took me so long to respond but my leak is at the rear of the right side head gasket between the block and head and coolant running down the back of the engine. Other than losing coolant very slowly the truck runs great. Will be doing the gaskets and studs along with the Bulletproof oil cooler shortly as my shoulder is almost healed enough to tackle this project. Tried the coolant test strips and the test fluid stays blue. Once I get the turbo and the rest of the EGR related goodies off the top of the engine maybe I'll find it's not the head gasket but it sure looks that way using mirrors etc. There is a little moisture around the egr cooler but nothing like at the back of the head unless it's pooling somewhere I can't see before leaking down the back of the engine.

 

Before you pull heads needlessly, I would replace the EGR to oil cooler hose. Your leak is a classic for that hose. While heads leaking coolant externally is rather rare. Replace that hose, and then see what ya got.

 

Thanks, I've got my fingers crossed hoping that's exactly what it is or the seal around the welded EGR. Used mirrors and climbed right in as far as I could trying to see. Made an adapter to pressurize the system to 16psi to see if I could make it leak. Even blew air with an air gun under the egr cooler to see if I could blow coolant which may be pooling out. It's still wettest at the rear of the head. I do have the new blue hose and hope it's from there where I can't see. I have the Bulletproof oil cooler, ARP studs and OEM gaskets and will be putting that in so I do have to tear everything down anyways.

 

Wait, are you saying the blue hose is already installed? Or you have it on hand ready to install?

If you still have the orange hose, put in the blue one and see what happens before you tear it down. Unless you just want to do the heads and studs regardless for peace of mind.

 

There was a new blue hose installed a few months back when the EGR was welded. Truck has about 5K on it since and out of the blue(not the hose I don't think LOL) it started leaking after a good long drive back to Ont from Grove City PA. Noticed a puddle under the truck on the driveway the next morning.

 

Hey DSMMH was wondering would you be so kind to give us a current update? I am toying with the ARP head install as I just brought the truck used and the heads have been of just recently before I took ownership of the truck.They replaced the ford bolts with new bolts and not ARP's (dang).My truck is not spitting coolant nor leaking around the head. This leads me to say "she's a good candate for stud swap". Drop us a line Thanks!

 

I did the stud's per DSMMH post, one at a time. That was 20k and all is still good. I had 75k on the engine, not sure if the head gaskets are starting to go with higher mileage (i doubt it).

 

Great post DSMMH!!
I would have an X myself but they seem to be hard to come by, atleast a good one anyway!! Got an 05 F-350 instead! Gonna use your technique to change my headstuds, probably change the Hg's at that time, high mileage truck!
I know I'm new to this engine and forum, but SNORINDAD, it is not advisable to use a bottoming tap unless you are cutting new threads, because that is exactly what inexperienced hands can do! Thread chaser or tap only if you know what you are doing! I've had far too many guys under me destroy the threads they were trying to save because they didn't know how easy it is to damage dirty threads!
Once again, GREAT post DSMMH, no offense to your age, but I hope I can still tackle a massive project like that when I'm age!! Great job thinking outside the box!!
RangerV8

 

RangerV8, Your statement is true but I still believe you need to clean the threads out and my dad was a tool and die man and I learned a lot from him as far as using taps dies and precision measuring tools. So I have a little more experience than most. I have a friend on my street who did not chase his threads on a jag motor and could never get the proper torque because the studs turned instead of the nuts. So he had to pull the heads back off and chase the threads.

 

Snorindad,
No disrespect meant by my post, I totally understand, just saying in the wrong hands they can be dangerous! But in the right hands and very valuble tool!!
RangerV8

 

So I realize that this is an old post but I do have some interest in its age as it should by now have some results from those who have changed to ARP studs one at a time and leaving heads installed. I know there are those who just say no, but proof is in the results of those who took the chance and tried and won or failed. Here is my reason for more input, I have an acquaintance that did this after Ford replaced the heads, gaskets and cooler as they would not install the studs (not sure why if he offered to pay) but he took it to his shop and pulled out bolts and put studs in. (deleted the egr) This by his account has been 5 years now and no issues despite the fact he has this thing chipped and drives like he stole the truck.
Curious if this is typical of those who did the exchange or simply luck?