Hey guys,

Sorry for the long post but I just bought a pretty nice 66 F100 custom cab short bed, 352, auto. It's in pretty nice shape with a few rust bubbles on front of hood and on the roof seams on the back of the cab. No rust on cab mounts, floor boards, etc. Pics are posted in my gallery. It runs great with new tires, new battery, new paint 5 yrs ago.

The question is what to do next on a tight budget. Eventually, I'd like to do the 4.6 DOHC/crown vic suspension swap, I think, but time, space and money prevents that from happening immediately. The truck will be my daily driver so some upgrades are somewhat crucial. e.g. it still has original brakes & steering. I've found most of the parts for a disc brake/PS conversion at a local Pick your Part this weekend but haven't pulled them yet.

I keep vascillating on whether I should go ahead and update existing twin I beam now and drive it a while or go ahead with the crown vic suspension swap now. Of course the Dakota swap would be cool too but it tends to be more pricey.

I figure I can update the twin I beam with brakes & power steering from the pick-your-part for around $500-$600 including a front end alignment. To do that I at least need to get the spindles, rotors, MC/booster, steering box, PS pump, hoses, steering column, sway bar from the donor truck. It's basically all bolt on and I don't have to remove the engine or front sheet metal. This conversion doesn't get the front end any lower. I don't want to buy dropped I-beams.

For the Crown Vic conversion, I can get the complete front supspension with brakes, R&P, sway bar, trailing arms, hoses, partial steering linkage etc. for $350. To install it I would need to pull the front sheet metal, engine/trans, old suspension, then fit it, bolt it, weld boxing plates, attach sway bar, connect steering, fabricate motor mounts for the 352 (since it's a good engine and I'm not ready to do swap in the 4.6 yet), add a power steering pump, MC/booster, re-install sheet metal, get appropriate wheels to fit. This conversion could easily go to $1000+ depending on what I do with the wheels/tires but it gets me closer to the long range goals for the truck.


With the Dakota conversion, I could get rotors to fit it with the 5x5.5" bolt pattern so getting additional wheels wouldn't be an issue but the crossmember alone is around $675 then you have to get the A-arms, R&P, rotors, calipers, hoses, PS pump, MC/booster, etc. plus you still have to pull the sheet metal, engine/trans, etc. I have no idea what this can add up to though I think it's a cool conversion.

The goal here is to update this truck's daily driveabilty to handle LA traffic as quickly and economically as possible. I have short term shop space, welder, and quite a few tools.
Would appreciate your input on which way to go.....

Thanks.
Randy

 

Very nice original truck!!!

Dont take this the wrong way-but it would be a shame to modify sure a nice original, mainly rust free, surviver.

Note:The pictures of his truck is located in his "album" under his profile. He doesnt have a "gallery".

 

Give Steve at ICMenu a call.

He has a Smoking Hot Recession Beater deal on Dakota cross members happening.

He is also a member here. elpolacko

Garbz

 

IMO: This truck is waaay too nice to modify.

Here's something you prolly don't know...but I do.

Your truck was sold new by Walker-Buerge Motor Co. in West LA (now Buerge Ford).

Or more likely by Stockton Quincy Ford in Westwood (1550 Westwood Blvd.).

Or by Culver Motors Ford on the south side of Washington Blvd., just east of Higuera.

The CA DMV office your truck's black plates were issued by was on the south side of Washington Blvd., just east of Sawtelle.

ONLY these three Ford dealers got their plates there...and the numbers on the black plates on your truck...are close to mine.

I bought my truck new at Stockton Quincy Ford...where I was working at the time.

Best dang autoparts store for old vehicles: ENGLER BROS. AUTO PARTS on Pico Blvd. west of Centinela.

btw: I'm a S/M native...lived there till 2001.

 

Thanks Garbz. I spoke to your buddy Steve at IC yesterday. He said he could build me a crossmember in about 1 1/2 weeks if I give him the go ahead. It looks like a really nice piece. I've been studying the installation and it looks pretty easy, all things considered. Did you abandon the idea of putting the 4.6 DOHC in your '63 with the Dakota suspension?

Phoneman, I don't take it the wrong way at all. I wrestle with the whole idea of modifying vs original, too.

The truck looks a great in the pics. It was built in San Jose, CA in August 1965 and has the original California black plates on it. I just picked it up this morning. The brakes are downright scary! LOL! YOu better have both hands on the steering wheel when you step on the brake pedal cause you don't know where it's going to go! The 352 runs ok but there's a lot of crud caked up on the underside of the engine, which indicates a few leaks etc. It has the COM trans and the old Dana rear end. (I thought it was a 9" but I guess not). The chassis hasn't been modified and needs some attention.

The bottom line is I want it to be safe, dependable, fun to drive and look cool. I love the look of nicely lowered (not slammed) with 17 or 18's. I'm still weighing my options but now that I have the truck in my possession, I can more truly assess which is the better way to go.

I appreciate any input you guys wanna throw my way.
Thanks. I'll figure out the gallery thing for the pics....

 

Hey ND,
I'm a big fan of the Engler Bros! They're great guys and they've helped me a lot on other cars I've owned.

The guy I bought the truck from bought it on Ebay 5 years ago. It was being sold by a dealer in Novato, CA who had taken it in on trade.

So in your recommendation not to modify it, are you suggesting not even adding disc brakes or power steering using Ford parts? In my opinion, those mods have to happen just to make it safe to drive in LA.

Thanks for the extra info about the truck. I'll do some more research.
Randy

 

If Limited Slip was ordered, the truck came with a Dana 44...not a 9 inch.

The outside mirrors are from an auto parts store. they look similar to the 1973/79's but are aftermarket.

This type of mirror was not available till 1973.

The wheels have been reversed....I haven't seen that done in ages.

Usually one sees chrome reversed wheels, but not in this case.

If you post all the info from the trucks Warranty Plate, one of us can decode it.

The original drum brakes are TERRIBLE...downright scary in today's traffic....I'd go with discs.....and P/S.

The front shoes are 11" x 2" the rears are 11" x 1 3/4" barely adequate back then...today, the brakes are worthless....especially in the horrid westside traffic.

 

Yeah, I knew the wheels were reversed and mirrors were aftermarket. I have a set of baby moons I may throw on there for now just to cover up the lug nuts.

From the VIN I know it came with the 352 and was built in SanJose.
VIN#F10YR732327
Other numbers are:
Wheelbase: 115
Color: M (Wimbledon white)
Body: C81
Trans: G
Axle: A8
GVW: 05000
Cert. Net. HP 172 4000 72

Can you determine what dealership first sold it?

I've located donor parts for discs & power steering at the area Pick-your-Part if I decide to go that route. A more modern driving truck is sure tempting though. LOL! I'm not crazy about that big-*** back bumper either even though I know it can be practical.

Anyway, thanks again for the help.

 

F10 = F100 2WD

Y = 352 2V

R = San Jose Assembly Plant

732327 = 1966 = Assembled August 1965

115" Wheelbase

M = Wimbledon White

C81: C = Medium Green Crush Vinyl & Medium Green Cody Pattern Woven Plastic // 81 = 81B Custom Cab

G = MX Cruise-O-Matic

A8 = Dana 44 / 3.54-1 / LIMITED SLIP / 3300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity

5,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

172 Net HP @ 4,000 RPM

72: CA Ford District Sales Zone Office.

 

I sure do like those wheels. And that is one sharp looking truck. Power steering, power brakes, and drive it like you stole it


ROb

 

Thanks for the info ND! The owner's manual is missing. Maybe I'll find some other clues as I get to know the truck.

I don't know squat about the Dana 44 rear end. Is it any good? Is the 9" better? Pros/Cons of swapping it out on this truck? It winds up pretty tight on the freeway....

 

The Ford Nine inch is a much stronger rear end and a whole lot easier to work on. The Dana 44 axle has C-clips to retain the axle shafts and any work that would need to be done has to be done under the truck on the axle. Being able to pull the center section out on the nine inch and work on it on a bench is a great thing! Plus the axle shafts are retained with bolts. The nine inch pinion has a support on the end to keep it square to the ring gear where as most all other axles I know of there is no support on the end of the pinion so under heavy loads it can flex and move away from the ring gear loosing contact with the ring and eventually fail. Really all the way around the nine inch axle is un-beatable.

As a side note all the axles used in NASCAR racing are Ford nine inch, weather the sponsor is Dodge, Chevy or Toyota.

Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff. I have a 9" in my 37 Ford and have swapped out the 3rd member in it a few times so I know they aren't too difficult to change. I've been out driving this truck this evening and the old Dana is making a little noise and has a fair amount of slack so it's going to need some attention one of these days. I'll keep my eyes open for a suitable donor.
I'm guessing it would make sense to go with a more freeway-friendly gear ratio....3.0 or 3.25.

 

Have you thought about not doing a front-end swap and going with lowered Ibeams from a company like DJM?

DJM Suspension - Products - 1965-1979 Ford F150

Not a bad option to consider... 18"s will tuck nicely into the fenders. You can lower it and get it tight with new bushings and ball joints without cutting and welding anything permanent on the frame.

 

Yes, Boris, I have looked at those. I'll keep them in mind. Thanks.