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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #31  
Old 07-31-2009, 07:44 PM
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thanks ryan.is that a nice way of saying "shut up and just do it"? just kidding,the way you put it makes total scents.maybe i will just spray a ford logo on it to make myself feel better.
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:51 PM
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Wow this one kind of popped up after being dormant for awhile - and with lots of questions.

First wiper switches. If you have a 6 volt wiper motor and switch, you can keep that and use it with a 12 volt conversion and use a vol-ta-drop. But you can't mix motch a 12 volt motor with a 6 volt switch, etc. The switch has to match the motor, and normally has to be made for that particular motor for the parking functions to work correctly. There are, of course, exceptions, but for now that is the best way to go.

As far as an alternator is concerned, there are lots of non GM one wire options. The later Ford paroducts used one wire and I found a great company called "Tuff Stuff" that actually built my chrome one wire alternator because I had an interference problem where it was mounted. It was about $125 a couple years ago as I recall. Here is the link to the site:

http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/...asp?partid=140

Also, LMC is starting to carry generator look alternators that I believe are one wire but not 100% positive. You might check them out as well.

Lastly, I don't have any data on the reducer you mentioned. I use the Vol-ta-drop on my truck to power one las 6 volt accessory - my Magic Air Heater - because 12 volt motors are not available and it's an "off" size. I also used a vol-ta-drop on my 55 to use the 6 volt overdrive transmission and have always found them to be reliable and do the job. They've been around a long time and have a good reliable reputation. So, I haven't looked at other products - I tend to stick with the things I know are dependable and safe.

I also use the individual gauge reducers. I got some feedback on the reducer that is the single unit that reduces all the gauges. Seems it gets hot enough to melt wire insulation that might be touching it. I guess you could use a vol-ta-drop there too but that's a lot of bulk just for gauges.
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  #33  
Old 08-01-2009, 02:07 AM
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I'll add to this one a little bit. There are higher amp rated electronic reducers available for the wiper and heater motors. Mid-Fifty has them for $63. These electronic jobbies are awesome. Mine hasn't been getting hot, like Julie mentioned, but I only have one installed, and only on the gas gauge. I will be adding the bigger electronic one for my original 6 volt wipers, though. I'm going to replace my heater with a 12 volt motor, only becasue the switch is dead, and if I'm gonna change the switch, I'm gonna change the motor. A lot of places talk bad about the porcelain volta-a-drops, but I'm with Julie. They have been around for several decades, and I've never seen a rig have a problem with using them.
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  #34  
Old 08-01-2009, 09:17 AM
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http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id29.html
if i did this right ,this is the link to the IVR.please check it out and see what you think.some feed back would be great.
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  #35  
Old 08-01-2009, 09:31 AM
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Roy, can this wiring setup be also used for the wipers? If so, do you need to put more than one in the circut.

Julie, I have a 6 volt wpier for my 52. How many Volt-A-Drop units do I need to get the correct voltage for the wiper system?
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  #36  
Old 08-01-2009, 09:43 AM
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retro.i dont know,that why i was trying to get some one to read this link.he did say he needed to make a couple more of these,so i think you would need one for each gauge.but i think you would have to use a heavier version for the wipers.i just happen to come across this and thought it was pretty cool....if it works like this guy says it does.
i dont suggest for anyone to just go and make some of these and put them in your trucks before we get some feed back on them.i think i will make one and try it ...if i can.
sometimes new is good.....sometimes new is VERY bad.
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  #37  
Old 08-01-2009, 12:19 PM
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Put a 12 Volt Battery in it - Turn on the key - Whatever smokes needs changed - Repeat until nothing smokes/everything works.
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  #38  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:00 PM
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I'm a new guy with a 1952 F1 and a 1953 F100 and I'm rewiring them and found this post. So what sending unit do you use for the temp. and oil pressure ?
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  #39  
Old 10-17-2012, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dean8757 View Post
I'm a new guy with a 1952 F1 and a 1953 F100 and I'm rewiring them and found this post. So what sending unit do you use for the temp. and oil pressure ?
If you are using the 6v gauges, and you drop the voltage at the instrument panel, you use the 6v sending units.
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  #40  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:14 PM
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Can you use the factory head light switch when converting to 12v????
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  #41  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:30 PM
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Can you use the factory head light switch when converting to 12v????
I ran my truck for 12 years with the factory switch, using 12v, and never had a problem.
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  #42  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:49 PM
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We're using little (switching) DC-DC power supplies to run wipers, gauges, horns and blower motor, all at 6V, in our '55 F500. Lights, starter and ignition will be 12V. We're using a 12V battery and an alternator.
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  #43  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:53 PM
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Ok was trying to figure out if I could use the factory switch. Though every switch in my truck is frozen solid since they sat out in the elements for 30 + years.
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  #44  
Old 10-18-2012, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by The Horvaths View Post
We're using little (switching) DC-DC power supplies to run wipers, gauges, horns and blower motor, all at 6V, in our '55 F500. Lights, starter and ignition will be 12V. We're using a 12V battery and an alternator.
What kind of power supplies are you using?
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  #45  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EffieTrucker View Post
What kind of power supplies are you using?
I used Texas Instruments' PT6654G and adjusted the output from 9V DC to 6.6V DC. I'm an engineer in my day job.
See: Mouser @ PT6654G Texas Instruments | Mouser

Data sheet is here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/slts038b/slts038b.pdf


Didn't figure out how to put a link, sorry. What can I say, I'm a hardware guy.

Last edited by The Horvaths; 10-18-2012 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Correction
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