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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old 04-10-2009, 05:27 PM
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Emartinez Emartinez is offline
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1985 Ford F150 1/2 ton

4.9L, I6, 4 Speed manual

had a few questions.. was trying to change the oil the other day but not alot came out? im wondering if it has a plug of some sort on the oil pan so i can drain it out?

also when i turn off my truck it has that Run on deal.. how do i get rid of that?

and finally.. it looks as though there oil coming from the front part of the valve cover.. is that just a gasket problem?

any idea where i can download the haynes repair manual for my truck?
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Old 04-10-2009, 05:58 PM
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You didnt pull the drain plug on the pan to change the oil? How were you trying to do it? The drain plug is on the passenger side of the oil pan. Run on, or dieseling, can be caused by the carburater being out of adjustment, or even the timing being off a little bit. It sounds like the gasket is all you need to change on your valve cover. Just be careful not to over tighten the new one, or you could cut or pinch the new gasket making it leak.
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BOWTIES ARE FOR LITTLE BOYS AND SISSYS!!! '81 F150: 300 6, C6 project truck 77,000+ original miles. '95 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.0 198,000+ miles.
It's a distributer not a "dizzy" unless you go around saying "fo shizzle"
It's a transmission or a trans. Not a tranny. If you have a tranny in you vehicle, I suggest you get him out asap!
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:02 PM
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lol thanks fot he quick response, i just bought this truck and have always been a chevy man, but i have to tell you. this old beast is making me think because as old as it is, and bad shape as the PO kept it in. im in love with it. so should i asjust the carb or asjust the timing lol? or both?
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Old 04-10-2009, 06:36 PM
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so should i asjust the carb or asjust the timing lol? or both?
You got to do both, carb first then timing, then redo if nessecery.

However if the Carb needs rebuilding, it could also cause dieseling. Also the O2 sensor, or air filter can cause it to run rich, which can cause it to diesel as well.

Do a tune up on the engine first, spark plugs, cap rotor, o2 sensor, air filter, rebuild carb if dirty etc, fuel filter, PCV Valve, change oil... then see if it still does it.

To adjust the carb and timing, look at the emission sticker on the radiator support and it will tell you the curb idle, and what to disconnect, like the Vacuum advance etc..

Adjust the curb idle first to what is specified on the lable. Then adjust the timing. If after you adjust the timing the curb idle changes, readjust the curb idle and check timing again, untill both are within spec.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:12 PM
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Click the image to open in full size.
theres a red line thats plugged weith a screw co0ming from the carb? close by that there is 2 hoses that are also red, i put my finger near the whole and it was sucking air in? should those be connected? and if they are it would be sucking that stuff from the carb.
Click the image to open in full size.
this pic shows my distrubutor. you can see the 2 screw there. but just behind the screw on the left is that what i need to loosen so that i can do that timing?

Video of my engine.. maybe you guys can point something out

******* width="440" height="420" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://v5.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=2wf4htg&s=5">
Original Video - More videos at TinyPic
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:24 PM
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If you haven't figured out oil changes yet......

I don't want to be too negative though, so keep your chin up, get a service manual, read it, keep reading this forum- lots of knowledgeable people here, and have fun.

Working on older trucks is a great way to learn- they're far easier than newer stuff and usually you can get your hands in there easily to change parts.
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Old 04-10-2009, 07:38 PM
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thanks for the still negative info, i have figured out the oil change, just have to find right size wrench. slowly but surely im learning. service manual will help. but first i need gas! im low
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:14 PM
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There is a hold down at the base of the distributer. It takes a half inch wrench to loosen it. Before you do the timing you need to disconnect the SPOUT connecter to keep the ignition from advancing. I cant really tell on your photos where yours is. As far as the hose, i really cant help you because they arent hooked up on mine either. Look on the core support ( where the hood latch is located) there should be a sticker with the emission hose routing on it.
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It's a distributer not a "dizzy" unless you go around saying "fo shizzle"
It's a transmission or a trans. Not a tranny. If you have a tranny in you vehicle, I suggest you get him out asap!
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:59 PM
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The first picture is the fresh air for your choke stove. Without that the choke can remain in a closed position making the truck run rich. Rich running can cause dieseling.

There is supposed to be a metal tube going from the red hose to the exaust manifold (missing) and the other metal tube attached to the carb with the fitting is the choke stove heated intake. The Carb can suck dirty air from the metal tube with the fitting unless you get that repaired.

Follow the metal tube from the carb to the exaust manifold, from there right below this on the other side of the exaust manifold is where the choke stove fresh air intake attaches. You can get these aftermarket choke stove kits at autopart stores.

How it works:

Fresh filtered air goes into the Red hose from the carburetor air horn, travels through the hose to a metal tube that attaches to the bottom of the exaust manifold, where the air enters the choke stove inside the manifold. The air is heated, and rises through the choke stove to the other metal line on top of the exaust manifold. Where heated air goes to the choke housing of the carb. Thus heating the choke for proper operation.
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:20 PM
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I'm not trying to be argumentative, but that doesnt really make any sense, since the "fresh air" is coming in ABOVE the choke butterfly. I just went out and looked at mine, and it is plugged off too. My choke works fine and doesnt run rich. Having a tube running from the hose to the exhaust manifold doesnt make any sense either. Mine has a tube coming off the heat shield to the air cleaner. Also my choke stove tube is on top of the exhaust manifold.
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BOWTIES ARE FOR LITTLE BOYS AND SISSYS!!! '81 F150: 300 6, C6 project truck 77,000+ original miles. '95 F150 XLT SuperCab 5.0 198,000+ miles.
It's a distributer not a "dizzy" unless you go around saying "fo shizzle"
It's a transmission or a trans. Not a tranny. If you have a tranny in you vehicle, I suggest you get him out asap!
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:52 PM
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mine doesnt use the stock air filter. watch the video. if that link doesnt work press the blue words Original video. it sits on top of the carb. also there is a metal plate on the carb that stays open when my engine is off and just sitting there. idk if that makes a difference. i know that there is an air noise, i foudn the source and when i stuck my finger on it it sucked my finger right onto the hole. idk what its supposed to be doing but it just sits there. also. i noticed when im drivintg i heere that air noise. but when i hit the brake it goes away.
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:08 AM
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I'm not trying to be argumentative, but that doesnt really make any sense, since the "fresh air" is coming in ABOVE the choke butterfly.
It's not coming in there, it's leaving the carb there.

I'll try to explain better.

Think of it like this, Heat Rises.

The air is cold there, above the choke butterfly, just coming out of the air cleaner. It goes from the air horn through the rubber hose to a metal line that goes to a fitting at the bottom of the choke stove in the exaust manifold. The Exaust manifold itself has a chamber inside it, open on both ends with one tube attached to each end. That is the choke stove. This chamber heats up the air coming from the air horn "tube" with red rubber hose. The air goes through the choke stove chamber in the exaust manifold heating it and rising through the chamber to the other side, where another tube is attached. This metal tube with the heated air goes back to the carb, where you see the metal tube and fitting in the picture. The heated air continues through a vacuum port in the carb itself to the choke spring housing, where the spring is heated by the hot air. vacuum at the choke housing end. helps the air move through the choke stove.


Quote:
I just went out and looked at mine, and it is plugged off too. My choke works fine and doesnt run rich. Having a tube running from the hose to the exhaust manifold doesnt make any sense either.
It's so only filtered air enters the carb. Without the other half attached you are sucking in dirty unfiltered air into the carb, and choke housing.

Quote:
Mine has a tube coming off the heat shield to the air cleaner.
That is the heat riser. A different thing. That is to help heat the air going into the engine.

Quote:
Also my choke stove tube is on top of the exhaust manifold.
Right, that is the upper tube. there are two tubes. One that heated air leaves the choke stove, the upper one, and the one that filtered air enters the stove, the lower one.

The lower one is the one that furnishes the choke stove with fresh filtered air from the airhorn, (tube with red hose).

If only the upper tube is connected, the choke stove will still work, however, you are sucking dirty air through the choke stove, and into the carb, and choke housing.

Hope that explains it better.
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:55 AM
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mine doesnt use the stock air filter. watch the video. if that link doesnt work press the blue words Original video. it sits on top of the carb. also there is a metal plate on the carb that stays open when my engine is off and just sitting there. idk if that makes a difference. i know that there is an air noise, i foudn the source and when i stuck my finger on it it sucked my finger right onto the hole. idk what its supposed to be doing but it just sits there. also. i noticed when im drivintg i heere that air noise. but when i hit the brake it goes away.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:56 PM
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mine doesnt use the stock air filter. watch the video. if that link doesnt work press the blue words Original video. it sits on top of the carb.
The Choke Stove tubes doesn't need to use the original air cleaner, it's not hooked to the air cleaner anyway. The Red Rubber hose is hooked up to the carb (see your picture above). Air would still be filtered with your aftermarket air cleaner to the red rubber hose, from red hose to metal tube, from tube to choke stove in exaust manifold, from choke stove back to the carb choke housing.


Quote:
also there is a metal plate on the carb that stays open when my engine is off and just sitting there. idk if that makes a difference.
If it's right on top of the carb, that is the Choke Butterfly, or plate. It's only supposed to close when the truck is cold. Usually when you first start the truck in the morning.

Quote:
i know that there is an air noise, i foudn the source and when i stuck my finger on it it sucked my finger right onto the hole. idk what its supposed to be doing but it just sits there.
You need to plug that hole temporarily with a rubber vacuum cap. You can get these in the auto part stores. Then you will need to find out if this controls something vital. Pictures would help. (Please no video, I'm on dialup)

Quote:
also. i noticed when im drivintg i heere that air noise. but when i hit the brake it goes away.
That could be a leaking brake booster.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:55 PM
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also may be having another problem. i put 20 in for gas on friday, its now sunday. i had 3/4's tank full now i have a quarter? could it be air to fuel mixture messing up? i noticed also when im abckin up i have the stick in Reverse, black smoke comes out? any ideas?
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:55 PM
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