Robertshaw 333-xxx vs regular thermostats
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Never run an engine without a tstat. Yes your engine run cooler but your building sludge all over the engine. Just remove the cap on your valve cover and look at your rockers. Heavy oil deposit stuck there. Tom monroe book for rebuilt 351m/400 have a good picture for not runing a t-stat.
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it's not so hard.
My brand new thermostat stuck and overheating occurred. I guess it didn't like sitting for 10 years! After reading all these posts I thought I'd have a heck of a time finding a thermostat that blocked the bypass but it was easier than easy. As long as one doesn't need the high flow capacity of the Robertshaw, there are five or six thermostats that have the required skirt around the capsule. I bought a 180 degree version from NAPA for about $6.00. The 192 unit would have required a wait to order it.
Rockauto has thermostats for my '77 F150 400 engine, most are correct. There are Motorrad regular flow, hi-flow, and fail-safe all with the required skirt. There are others, too, noted by the words "bottom bypass".
Look at the pictures on Rockauto. If you look at the copper cylinder below the valve, you will notice on many of the thermostats pictured, the color changes about 2/3 of the way down. That is the "skirt" that is pressed on, it's what covers the bypass hole in the block. If looking at the bottom end of the thermostat, the copper capsule will have a lighter colored brass ring around it. This is the attachment that covers the hole when the thermostat opens.
So guys, it's not that hard.
R.
Rockauto has thermostats for my '77 F150 400 engine, most are correct. There are Motorrad regular flow, hi-flow, and fail-safe all with the required skirt. There are others, too, noted by the words "bottom bypass".
Look at the pictures on Rockauto. If you look at the copper cylinder below the valve, you will notice on many of the thermostats pictured, the color changes about 2/3 of the way down. That is the "skirt" that is pressed on, it's what covers the bypass hole in the block. If looking at the bottom end of the thermostat, the copper capsule will have a lighter colored brass ring around it. This is the attachment that covers the hole when the thermostat opens.
So guys, it's not that hard.
R.
Last edited by dogdays; 11-29-2018 at 06:21 PM. Reason: tryinto add pictures. didn't work.
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Just ordered a Robert Shaw 333-180 from Flowkooler's website... thermostats ship for free. I've got an overcooling issue with my Mr. Gasket high flow stat in there right now, but I don't think it has the bypass cutoff nub on it, so it might just be the wrong stat altogether.
Please ignore if you already know or I misunderstood your post. But it still might clarify things for future Ford 351C 351M 400 owners:
The RobertShaw 333 Series thermostat is mainly for the Ford 351C Cleveland engine - because it has the extra brass bypass restrictor plate
The RobertShaw 330 Series thermostat is mainly for the Ford 351M Modified and sister 400 engine - because it does NOT have the brass bypass restrictor plate
The RobertShaw 333 Series has the brass bypass restrictor plate included that is needed for the Cleveland block
The 330 Series doesn't come with the brass restrictor plate because that restrictor part is actually built into the casting of the 351M & 400 engine blocks
I found this all out last year when I bought a RobertShaw 330-195 for my 1977 Ford 400 6.6L truck engine
I was glad I did my research first because I almost bought the 333-195 which would be wrong for Ford 351M/400 owners.
If you did buy the 333-xxx thermostat, just be sure NOT to use the brass plate since that will further interfere with the controlled bypass water passage (in effect you'd then have two restrictors in place!)
The RoberShaw was expensive but looks to be high quality and will probably be very reliable/dependable
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